Is this cab fixable? Updated with inside pics and updated again with progress pics

OldGtrGuy said:
Ahh ok thanks, I really appreciate the info. Will see what SW says. I'm fully expecting them to not offer me what I want but I hope they at least take it back then I'll just pay more $$$ and buy a new model.
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This is what will happen and what I’d do. No chance they won’t offer to take it back for a full refund
 
OldGtrGuy said:
It has this foam protector on top and bottom.


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Yeah, that's definitely not enough protection to ship a cabinet. They need to be completely surrounded with internal protection, like in this attached image-all my cabs leave the shop like this. Obviously too late now for your cab but for future reference, and anyone who may be considering shipping a cabinet with no or minimal shipping damage. But like JACKBOOTEDTHUG suggested, open that cab up & see what you've got. I know I'd be curious to see if there's any possible additional damage.





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stoneage cabs said:
Yeah, that's definitely not enough protection to ship a cabinet. They need to be completely surrounded with internal protection, like in this attached image-all my cabs leave the shop like this. Obviously too late now for your cab but for future reference, and anyone who may be considering shipping a cabinet with no or minimal shipping damage. But like JACKBOOTEDTHUG suggested, open that cab up & see what you've got.




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Not trying to knock any company here and I could be wrong because this was a used item. But it came in the Bogner box, wondering if thats how they all ship?

Hell my Uber is my favorite amp and I love the matching cab, sounds amazing. But this might make me second guess which cab to get now.
 
OldGtrGuy said:
I got it used from Sweetwater, it wasn't from the customer used section but directly under the Sweetwater ubercab purchase section as having a used one in stock.

No pictures, spoke to a sales guy on the phone he said there are no issues at all. I'm sure UPS dropped it hard.
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Just return it. Their return policy is exceptional. I bought a used set of $7k studio monitors once, and one had a hum in it. They didn’t have any more used in stock so they just sent me a brand new pair instead. Call your sales rep, they should take care of you.
 
Ok so sweetwater is now willing to work out an acceptable deal at 50% off. I have zero experience building cabs but the inside looks perfectly fine. I pushed around, pulled on the edges. Nothing is moving, no cracks or anything.

What do you think?





 
The original packing job is pathetic. 50% off is an insult. IMO they should offer you a 100% refund and a little extra (in the form of some free accessories like strings, etc) for all the time, trouble and effort you have to put forward in managing this mess that they're accountable for. If that's all the protection that came from Bogner's cab makers facilities, then sweetwater can take that up with Reinhold personally and make them up their game. I also see they are not painting the interior black anymore. That helped to internally seal the cabinet, to a degree anyway. Seek out a used Bogner 4x12.
 
Bxlxaxkxe said:
Personally, there’s 0 chance of me not returning that and just finding another one
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Im sure most people would but im going to keep it for half off. The inside looks perfectly fine, sounds great and it appears just that outer joint is split. Some wood glue will probably seal it back up just fine.

Was looking more on what people think of the inside as I have no cab building experience.
 
OldGtrGuy said:
Im sure most people would but im going to keep it for half off. The inside looks perfectly fine, sounds great and it appears just that outer joint is split. Some wood glue will probably seal it back up just fine.

Was looking more on what people think of the inside as I have no cab building experience.
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10-4. Hopefully John from Stoneage will follow up - there isn’t a better expert on the planet.
 
Usuall the corner have finger joints for maximum stability. If you are going to glue it together, don`t only use one clamp from one side but at least two from each side. Remove front and back panel before doing this as well as some of the tolex. After glueing, you can drill screws in from above and the side. Drill the screw further in than the wood surface and cover the holes with filler. That`s what I do, when building headshells to avoid going through the process of making finger joints (see pictures). After that, reglue the tolex
 

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BesaMoogie said:
Usuall the corner have finger joints for maximum stability. If you are going to glue it together, don`t only use one clamp from one side but at least two from each side. Remove front and back panel before doing this as well as some of the tolex. After glueing, you can drill screws in from above and the side. Drill the screw further in than the wood surface and cover the holes with filler. That`s what I do, when building headshells to avoid going through the process of making finger joints (see pictures). After that, reglue the tolex
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Thanks for the pictures.

So the back panel comes off super easy but I will need to look at the front as I have never taken one off before. So basically you're saying take the speakers out, remove both front and back of cab and then glue, clamp and screw?

As far as two clamps from each side, youre saying the obvious 2 clamps horizontal but then 2 more vertical as well?
 
OldGtrGuy said:
I got it used from Sweetwater, it wasn't from the customer used section but directly under the Sweetwater ubercab purchase section as having a used one in stock.

No pictures, spoke to a sales guy on the phone he said there are no issues at all. I'm sure UPS dropped it hard.
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I do this multiple times per year. Sweetwater actually has a reseller called gearnuts. They ship a lot of the used gear. Most people don't know this. My rep told me not to buy anymore demos and he'll hook me up with demo prices. Everytime I buy something that's a demo, it ends up being fucked up. Then they send me a new one for the price I paid for the demo.

Last thing I bought was a dj mixer. It was shipped in a box of fucking peanuts with no bubblewrap, not even a fucking plastic bag over the thing.
 
billsbigego said:
I do this multiple times per year. Sweetwater actually has a reseller called gearnuts. They ship a lot of the used gear. Most people don't know this. My rep told me not to buy anymore demos and he'll hook me up with demo prices. Everytime I buy something that's a demo, it ends up being fucked up. Then they send me a new one for the price I paid for the demo.

Last thing I bought was a dj mixer. It was shipped in a box of fucking peanuts with no bubblewrap, not even a fucking plastic bag over the thing.
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Interesting, sounds like I need the rep you have :LOL:
 
F
OldGtrGuy said:
As far as two clamps from each side, youre saying the obvious 2 clamps horizontal but then 2 more vertical as well?
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It depends how the crack moves through the corner. Maybe you get away with only clamping from one side which would be the obvious hoizontal one.
When clamping/glueing I usually try to get as much pressure on the gluesurface as possible. But then, I am usually faced with glueing guitartops on bodies etc.
For the best job or how I would do it, remove the tolex to get good access to the working area, put glue into the gap as much as possible. Push it in with a toothpick or someting similar. The excessive glue can still removed after clamping. Make shure the clamps don`t leave pressure marks on the other side of the cab on the tolex. Prepare the clamps etc before starting to work with the glue to net get in a hassle when the glue is in the gap.

After the glue has dried, I drill leading holes for the screws, drill the screws in, put filler on it and sand the filler back.

The tolex should match again when everything is done neatly. You can paint the wood black where the tolex joints together in case the pieces don`t macht together perfectly anymore. That way you are hiding imperfections.
 
JackBootedThug said:
Inside looks good to me. I would glue screw and strap it. Probably put some little brackets on the inside as well. Still at half off that is pricey for a busted cab. They are like $1000 right? Your call bro…
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I've built a few cabs, and I agree. Based on how it looks inside and out, glue it, clamp it with ratchet straps (no clamps), and it should be good to go. Maybe add a couple of gussets glued in at the corners for reinforcement. Glue the edges of the tolex down, and it should be almost invisible.
 
griff10672 said:
quick fix ........ glue and clamp .....

to really fix it .....I would strip the tolex .... drill holes and use dowels to reattach ...

or counter sink some screws then plug the holes ... sand and re tolex ...
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BesaMoogie said:
Usuall the corner have finger joints for maximum stability. If you are going to glue it together, don`t only use one clamp from one side but at least two from each side. Remove front and back panel before doing this as well as some of the tolex. After glueing, you can drill screws in from above and the side. Drill the screw further in than the wood surface and cover the holes with filler. That`s what I do, when building headshells to avoid going through the process of making finger joints (see pictures). After that, reglue the tolex
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What type of screws would you guys recommend? My buddy who does some woodworking also mentioned a couple of headless nails to act as the staples that are used on this cab after he took a look at it.

I went with clamps and titebond 3, seems to have lined right back up but I do think I want to add a couple of screws or nails. I just don't know exactly what kind I would need.

Will let it sit for a full 24 hours although I want to plug it in now.






 
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