Jake E Lee mods

Detroit ABA said:
In the Headfirst videos, Jason references The 2200pf or 2n2 on V1B-6 as cutting bass and tightening up the amp, how much different or noticeable in feel would having the 1000pf in that position? Also on the V2-3 (fat cap), 22uf vs .68uf & V2-8 (cathode follower) 470pf vs 330pf. would the different values be apparent?

I like the 1000pf bright cap as well, would it be worth having a different value like a 440pf on a switch?
Click to expand...
I don't think so but you might. I put one in and really couldn't tell the difference without it. It still sounded to wooly and muddy like the amp does without a bright cap. But i probably run my knobs different than you do so it might work for you. It is real easy to gator clip in some different values to test. When I did it I used an On-Of-On spdt switch so I could compare them side by side.
 
I'm getting ready to finish a 2204 build using Jason's board. This is probably my 5 or 6th using this board. I'm trying to get my work as clean as Nik's, Jason's, fourT6and2's, and Alex Catlow(sirius amplification). I am building it stock for a friend but I'm planning on modding it to suit my friends needs as he had a Silver Jubilee, .50 caliber, and a Supro stolen from him.

I haven't tried the alligator clip trick. How do you guys do this? Just leave the leads long on the value and clip it?
 
Anybody know what the 220k resistor does in parallel with the gain pot? I don't think Jason explained that one.
 
Nice to see people actually experimenting! You can really play with any values in any of these positions to custom voice the amp however you want. Especially NFB/presence/depth. Very powerful tone shaping tools. With some zeners you're like half way to a Cameron/Fortin/Gower/Friedman whatever.
 
jchrisf said:
Anybody know what the 220k resistor does in parallel with the gain pot? I don't think Jason explained that one.
Click to expand...
As I recall it just makes the 1M gain pot a 180k pot. That reduces gain and increases the loading on the previous stage plate as well as reducing the next stage grid to ground resistance. That all results in less dynamics/punch and reduces bandwidth so it’s less likely to fart out, get mushy, etc.
 
SpiderWars said:
As I recall it just makes the 1M gain pot a 180k pot. That reduces gain and increases the loading on the previous stage plate as well as reducing the next stage grid to ground resistance. That all results in less dynamics/punch and reduces bandwidth so it’s less likely to fart out, get mushy, etc.
Click to expand...

Also creates a high pass filter with the preceding coupling cap, so tightens up the amp which is needed with the gain that cascaded 2.7k//0.68 stages create.
 
Last edited:
The schematic for the Small Box 50, it looks almost identical to the JEL I know I must be missing something but what else would be involved to convert a small box 50 to a 50 watt version of the JEL 20? The sat switch is a common mod on the small box.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top