Mesa Rectifier guys: help give me advice

  • Thread starter Thread starter cardinal
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I'm also a treble on '0' kind of guy.

I do that with my Quick Rod and sometime with my Single Rec Rectoverb.

All the other suggestions have been made. EQ in front and in loop. Clean boost up front. Speakers.

The only other thing not mentioned that I put a lot of weight into is tubes. And make sure it is on silicone rectification and not tube rectification. That should help.

If these things don't get you were you want than a Recto may not be for you. I know what you mean though because my Quick Rod has a different feeling but not sure I'd say my Recto has any pillow type feel in the attack. It is more like sack of bricks in the chest. I have a slant Mesa Traditional cab though. :D
 
Another treble on zero dual rec guy here. Same with Splawn.
 
311splawndude":3d4vpwf3 said:
I'm also a treble on '0' kind of guy.

I do that with my Quick Rod and sometime with my Single Rec Rectoverb.

All the other suggestions have been made. EQ in front and in loop. Clean boost up front. Speakers.

The only other thing not mentioned that I put a lot of weight into is tubes. And make sure it is on silicone rectification and not tube rectification. That should help.

If these things don't get you were you want than a Recto may not be for you. I know what you mean though because my Quick Rod has a different feeling but not sure I'd say my Recto has any pillow type feel in the attack. It is more like sack of bricks in the chest. I have a slant Mesa Traditional cab though. :D
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:yes:

Definitely not a hard low end/attack like a Splawn, Engl, Wizard. I also ran my QR with treble at Zero; that's where it was at for me with that amp. I remember someone on here asked about settings on a Recto in regards to fizz and I made the treble at zero suggestion and they replied back that sounded crazy. Then said they tried it and was really surprised how good it sounded.
 
I never run the Presence above 9-10 o'clock on the Red mode. Interesting some of you run it high.
 
So I’m using a 4x12 with G12-65s, so that might be why I’m looking for more high end than guys using a V30 cab. And I’m used to old Marshall’s and like a brighter sound. So I seem to prefer having the treble and presence turned up pretty high.
 
cardinal":1utv4hba said:
So I’m using a 4x12 with G12-65s, so that might be why I’m looking for more high end than guys using a V30 cab. And I’m used to old Marshall’s and like a brighter sound. So I seem to prefer having the treble and presence turned up pretty high.
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That makes more sense now. With V30's you need it on zero. I like it best with v30's and k85's.
 
swamptrashstompboxes":2ma8ikjp said:
cardinal":2ma8ikjp said:
So I’m using a 4x12 with G12-65s, so that might be why I’m looking for more high end than guys using a V30 cab. And I’m used to old Marshall’s and like a brighter sound. So I seem to prefer having the treble and presence turned up pretty high.
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That makes more sense now. With V30's you need it on zero. I like it best with v30's and k85's.
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Yeah, there’s no way I’d want to run V30s with my Marshalls (1959 and 2204), and I’d hate to have to get another cab. The Recto thing just might not work for me.

I guess I do have a 2x12 with a V30 and a T75 in it. Been using the poor thing as an end table hahaha. Can give it a whirl.
 
So this is maybe out of left field but maybe Recto guys are the right guys to ask: how do you like the PRS Archon? I'm intrigued by it and read that it's sort of a Recto/Uberschall type thing.
 
Wizard of Ozz":2fxfn71g said:
GJgo":2fxfn71g said:
This is exactly why all players need one Recto, and one Mark (with a pentode / triode switch). A Mark in pentode is immediate AF. These models have that.

Mark V (90w, 35w & 25w)
Mark IV
Mark III green stripe is pentode
Mark II & III Coliseums (at least mine- the half power switch is a pentode / triode switch)
Click to expand...


... and the JP-2C... and any Mark IIC+, IIC++, or III modified with a pentode modification (2 resistors) or pentode/triode switch. Pentode is where it's at... especially for metal.
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I really don't want to derail the thread, but having owned all of them I'd have to disagree. Especially about the JP. Its weirdly soft attack was a main reason I sold it. Also SimulClass IIC+ were triode. HRGs I've heard both ways so IDK but mine did not have the immediacy of my known pentode Marks.

..So to keep it on track, I agree that the Recto treble on 0 thing is pretty cool. My Tremoverb was the most defined with it, going there totally changed the tonal structure. Here's a clip.

https://youtu.be/IlVthQI4Pxo?t=859

Interestingly enough the same trick works on Marks. It was killer on my IIC++, and works on my Five 35 too. :)

https://youtu.be/38qe-42ybGU
 
any amp that needs a eq pedal to sound right is the wrong amp for me!
 
Think I might just not be a Recto guy. Picked up a beat up old 5150 and it’s much more instant gratification. Not my perfect in-my-head tone, but for when I want that bigger modern metal sound that the 1959 or 2204 just doesn’t really do, the 5150 seems more of what I am after than the Dual Recto. Reborn Triple should be here in a few days and I can compare it too.

The Recto is much more natural sounding than the 5150, but it’s just so damn dark.
 
swamptrashstompboxes":17qhfv9o said:
Another treble on zero dual rec guy here. Same with Splawn.
Click to expand...

Also a treble on 0 guy with the qr myself
 
Cardinal - get what works right?

I would def say that the 5150 has an immediate attack.

I know what you mean about the recto sag though. It is not a huge sag by any means - but it is noticeable. It has been brought up before. Maybe why I like my Single Rec so much :dunno:

That said - I've heard some seriously tight percussive Dual and Triple Recs so we know it can be done. Just different. I'll assume you had it on silicon power rectification and you've got the right tubes working to your advantage. PI is petty important. That's why I like the 5751s. They sacrifice a bit of gain for clarity. On the amps we are talking about gain is not the problem :D

Speaking of a nice attack...


Bad.Seed":vfruywsu said:
That's what I thought as well, but you will be surprised.

Here's a little video I just took on my lunch break. Treble at 0

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That's a nice attack. Especially the second half. The first half was a bit saggy but that may just be the pick attack. Nice work.
 
Alright so:

1) You treble-on-zero guys are on to something. I really have it a go and with both the bass and treble nearly zeroed, it does sound pretty good.

2) I had been bypassing the loop, but putting it in the circuit cuts some bass and helps the attack IMHO.

Still may just not be the amp for 8-strings unboosted.
 
cardinal":2cfrsmg6 said:
Alright so:

1) You treble-on-zero guys are on to something. I really have it a go and with both the bass and treble nearly zeroed, it does sound pretty good.

2) I had been bypassing the loop, but putting it in the circuit cuts some bass and helps the attack IMHO.

Still may just not be the amp for 8-strings unboosted.
Click to expand...

It wouldn't work for me unboosted with a six string in drop D, so I can only imagine an 8 string would lack attack/tightness.
 
Yeah, no way a Recto will go there unboosted. Remember when you boost it, you need to roll the gain way back. Just enough to get the job done.

For comparison check this clip out- This is in A, and pretty tight.

https://youtu.be/jpZQZo7aZCg
 
Yeah, if I roll the gain back and then hit it with an OD808 it tightens up. It doesn’t breathe as well when it’s unboosted but it still sounds more natural than the 5150.

Dunno why I bother though. Then I plugged back into a 1959 boosted with an SD-1. It was a bit jarring to go back to that. So much brighter and thin sounding, but after a few moments it was “ah, this is what so like.” The metal machines are a bit fun still, though.
 
GJgo":3ozpo4i1 said:
Wizard of Ozz":3ozpo4i1 said:
GJgo":3ozpo4i1 said:
This is exactly why all players need one Recto, and one Mark (with a pentode / triode switch). A Mark in pentode is immediate AF. These models have that.

Mark V (90w, 35w & 25w)
Mark IV
Mark III green stripe is pentode
Mark II & III Coliseums (at least mine- the half power switch is a pentode / triode switch)
Click to expand...


... and the JP-2C... and any Mark IIC+, IIC++, or III modified with a pentode modification (2 resistors) or pentode/triode switch. Pentode is where it's at... especially for metal.
Click to expand...

I really don't want to derail the thread, but having owned all of them I'd have to disagree. Especially about the JP. Its weirdly soft attack was a main reason I sold it. Also SimulClass IIC+ were triode. HRGs I've heard both ways so IDK but mine did not have the immediacy of my known pentode Marks.

..So to keep it on track, I agree that the Recto treble on 0 thing is pretty cool. My Tremoverb was the most defined with it, going there totally changed the tonal structure. Here's a clip.

https://youtu.be/IlVthQI4Pxo?t=859

Interestingly enough the same trick works on Marks. It was killer on my IIC++, and works on my Five 35 too. :)

https://youtu.be/38qe-42ybGU
Click to expand...


Different horses for different courses and such.

Not sure what you mean about the HRG 100/60W MKIIC+/C++s though??? All HRG amps are 100W/60W full pentode operation from the factory running 4 6L6GC power tubes. No triode option from the factory. No such animal as a pentode/triode HRG... different output transformers 105 vs 100PT... and you'd have to swap the power socket resistors on the outer pair of power tubes. Not sure why anyone would want to mod a HRG... I have seen plenty of modified DRG with the pentode/triode switch though... have 2 myself.

My JP-2C has a very tight, sharp, immediate attack... especially in shred mode. It hangs with any of my MKIIC++ HRG/DRG amps, or MKIII++ amps I have sitting right next to it. Maybe you got a bad one. YMMV.
 
I think the way the tone stack works, when you turn the treble way down, you’re cutting a substantial amount of gain from the rest of the tone stack. So while it makes it less trebly, it clears things up at the same time. And then the highs can get back in with the “presence” control (which i think in modern mode is actually a reversed high cut; so turning the knob up reduces the high cut).
 
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