New pedalboard build...how would you...

  • Thread starter Thread starter SkyhighRocks
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SkyhighRocks

SkyhighRocks

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EDIT: For some reason, the photo is gone. I keep getting a board attachment quota has been reached notification. I'll try linking.

I've been working on a new board for my live rig lately. I've been keeping my kemper at home for recording mainly because I'm giving my IEMs a break and wanted to switch it up a bit.

Right now, you can see in the photo what I have so far. I also have 2 more iStomps arriving tomorrow and should be ordering another H9 (full, I already have the Core) and some George Ls to clean the wiring up.

Because I need the Banshee for my band, it really takes up a lot of real estate and I haven't really decided on how I want to place things on the board. Everything on the right of the board is for the front of my DSL. (Whirlwind, Banshee, Wireless, 1 iStomp (clean boost), tuner and SD-1 for overdrive)...pretty happy with the sound I'm getting.

On the left is where I'll put the NS-2 (using the X pattern for front of amp and loop noise), 2 H9s (one probably for verbs and the other for lead boosted delays), the GE-7 for solo boosts here and there, and the other 2 iStomps, which will be used for whatever I feel like loading into them but mainly delays and modulations.

I have a PP2+ mounted under the board with 2 power strips so power is not an issue. I just need some ideas on where to place all this stuff to make more sense...or does it look ok so far? I'm not sure if I want both H9s at the upper left or lower left. I'll be using at least one of them for some lead stuff but they're big enough to be able to get to up top. It looks messy now but I'll be sure to clean things up after experimentation is over. Help! :)
 
I'm running my effect loops at the top of the board and effect before amp on the lower side.

I have been experimenting with chorus and phase in the loop to see what I like better.

The board should be also set up for you, the way it feels most natural so you are not thinking so much where the effects are located.

I just got a 50' roll of George L .155 cable for $78 in the mail today. I think I have a line on the George L right angle plugs for $68 each 12, free shipping. Going to ask my guy at Sweetwater if he can at least match it.

Are you running both H9 in the loop?
 
Yeah the H9s will be in the loop. I'm probably ordering the 10' of George L with the extra 12 connectors. I can't see needing any more than that after doing some measuring. The talkbox and wireless are what make things more difficult for me. Lol
 
Is there enough room under the Trailertrash pedalboard to mount the wireless and talk box? Maybe drill a hole so you and route the talk box tube directly from the board's top? I've mounted a few wireless (Line 6 G50 and Sony) underneath my board and haven't had any issues but then again I usually don't stray too far.

If you're able to do that, I'd get a foot controller with true bypass loops and depending on what you're trying to accomplish maybe one that's able to control multiple loops with 1 stomp. Disaster area amp, musicom, rocktron Patchmate (although i wouldn't recommend rocktron's floor model bc of the clicking noises it produces but it gives you an idea). If you get a controller with midi capabilities, you can switch the presets in the H9's simultaneously and get more out of them.


Good luck.
 
I run effects in the loop at the lower left because i want delay at my feet when switching between lead/rythm settings and don't want to step over anything. I run overdrive/s that stay on, in the upper right of the board so they either get clicked on or off before a song and a KOKO clean boost bottom right because that is what will more likely get stepped on during the song. Top left corner will be something like noise clamp and chorus which again, is either on or off. Simple and setup based on how many times during a song they get stepped on. Why waste the easiest place on the board to get to, on a noise clamp?
 
datriani":cy9tdv9l said:
Is there enough room under the Trailertrash pedalboard to mount the wireless and talk box? Maybe drill a hole so you and route the talk box tube directly from the board's top? I've mounted a few wireless (Line 6 G50 and Sony) underneath my board and haven't had any issues but then again I usually don't stray too far.

If you're able to do that, I'd get a foot controller with true bypass loops and depending on what you're trying to accomplish maybe one that's able to control multiple loops with 1 stomp. Disaster area amp, musicom, rocktron Patchmate (although i wouldn't recommend rocktron's floor model bc of the clicking noises it produces but it gives you an idea). If you get a controller with midi capabilities, you can switch the presets in the H9's simultaneously and get more out of them.


Good luck.

There really isn't the room...especially with how deep the banshee is and the fact I like to adjust things from time to time on it. The wireless I'm not so sure just because of the antennas and how flimsy they secure to it. I may have to separate the 2 at the top of the board, turn the banshee sideways, and use a longer cable run to it from the whirlwind. I'm trying to figure out the most practical way to set it all up.

I've been looking at the Disaster Area stuff but after buying two H9s, that ain't happening for awhile! Maybe eventually. I've decided to use 2 of the 3 iStomps before the amp (one for a boost and the other for flanger or phaser). Here's what I'm thinking for front row so far:

Left (right to left): Whirlwind, flanger, clean boost, SD-1 (flanger may need to sit above these pedals though because of the left side and space)
Right (left to right): H9#1, H9#2, if there's room the GE-7 for occasional lead volume boost (the H9s will have some patches set for delays and volume boosts)

Top left: Wireless, Tuner, NS-2
Top right: Banshee (not sure if I'll lay it long or parallel), istomp that stays on with a slight delay.
 
Updated:
Worked on this today...I'm waiting on another H9 (which will go next to the other) and a George L kit and extra ends. All holes have been drilled to hopefully run the cables under the board. (there were already some holes in the board...I didn't do all that! :lol: :LOL: Zip ties will be secured once everything is wired up.

I left space in the middle row to add if I ever want to or to move things around if need be.

10489844_912010012148373_8318215226846226610_n.jpg


10445920_912010048815036_7353397942732595451_n.jpg
 
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