Non recessed FR question

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SFW

SFW

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I recently bought a Jackson Adrain Smith model guitar. This is the first non recessed Floyd equipped guitar that I have owned. I have noticed that I can't get the bar to flutter like I have been able to do on every other FR guitar I have owned. Is this common for a non recessed FR? If so, I may have to order a new body from Warmoth.
 
Sounds more like an issue with the tailpiece or set up. I have a Stratocaster with a NR Floyd & it flutters, I also have a Robin guitar that is recessed but doesn't flutter much at all. Both guitars are set up with the tailpieces floating. I'm guessing, but I would say the knife edge is a factor in all of this.
 
As long as it's set up to float and the block has room to move, it should flutter. Ideally you only want 2-3 springs and the ability to pull up at least a 1/2 step (preferably more).
 
It's probably set up for "dive" only. In order for it to float you'll have to adjust the whole bridge. You will have to raise the bridge post first, then adjust the spring tension. Note: the tension to float ratio step can be a bitch. I usually set mine so it's a whole step up. Next step is adjusting the individual saddle heights back shred specs. Once you have a comfortable float and string height do your intonation last.


This is what I do for non-FR guitars to make them float. I'm not familiar with Floyds so you may have to add a few steps. YouTube will help a lot if you doing this yourself too.


But it's pretty much what Rupe said :thumbsup:
 
The recess should not make a difference.

On production guitars, the neck and body are set up to work together for the use of the installed trem, ie. height of neck sitting in the body = correct height for the trem utilized. Most of the time, with a top mounted FR, the neck is not set as low into the body, versus a flush mounted FR, where the neck pocket is routed deeper for the neck to sit into.

Set up to float, and make sure the knife edges / bridge pins are not damaged (which shouldn't be, on a new guitar).
 
Do you have any upward pull to it? In order to get warble effect it has to be floating like Bill indicated.

Is there a trem-no installed? If not and you can't pull up on the bar to go sharp you wouldn't need to replace the body. You could shim the neck pocket which will let you raise the Floyd base a bit. I always use 3 springs and adjust the claw to where its not too hard to push down or pull up. I personally prefer non recessed routes but I don't need a full step pull up...mine are usually 1/2 or 1/4 step.
 
Actually, you are correct. I did have a EBMM EVH model for a while. Although that one was set for dive only. So I guess a better way to have put it would be to say that this in my first top mounted FR guitar with a floating bridge. :) Yes, I have the ability to pull up on the bar. The bridge sets about a 1/4 of an inch above the body plain. I can get about a whole step bend before I start to get concerned about breaking a string. I just find it interesting that I cannot get this trem to flutter.
 
Use 2 springs if you can, and just tighten the claw screws more to pull the bridge back level.
 
luxxtone":3dnf1sd7 said:
Use 2 springs if you can, and just tighten the claw screws more to pull the bridge back level.
Click to expand...

^^^ This. And new springs can be stiff. Experiment by using the springs from your best fluttering guitar. If that works it was the springs...
 
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