Now 100% done with the TN100 - BE100 Based Build

  • Thread starter Thread starter scottosan
  • Start date Start date
scottosan

scottosan

Well-known member
Now I can officially say that I am done. 2 and 1/2 months into it and I couldn't be happier. I ended up making alot of tweaks, but while heavily based on the BE100, I have made a fair amount of changes.

Global:

1. 3-way switcheable NFB Loop kind of like the XTC excursion swithc -
middle - Stock 220k/4700pf
left - 220k in parallel with 220k/4700pf = 110k/4700pf
right - 100k in parallel with 220k/4700pf = 68k/4700pf

2. modified switching so that left switch for channel is lit for dirty and off for clean

3. Just a tad more filtering on the preamp


Clean:

1. Added Mid control
2. Used .047/.047/220pf . 100k slope


Dirty:

Here is where I got a little creative. I didn't like the HBE being too hot when gain all of the way dimed and structure in the highest gain position. If you are a wanker like me and sit too close to the amp, you get some unwanted feedback with high output pickups in HBE mode with gain and structure dimed. I noticed this on mine as well as the production models and was informed that was normal.

1. Using the spare side of the BE/HBE relay, I wired the hot side of the 10k on v2b that otherwise would be hooked to the structure switch to the relay common. I then wired the structure the relay so that it's only in play for the BE channel. When you switch to the HBE, it switches out the structure and adds 10k/.33uf in parallel with the 10k, so that the HBE see's 5k/.33. To me this not only makes the HBE much more useable with the gain and structure maxed out, but it much more open and retains similar gain levels without going over the edge into feedback. I also like this because if the switch the structure to a lower gain setting on the BE side, when you switch to the HBE side you are still at the same gain level because the structure is only engaged on the BE channel.









image album upload
 
Awesome job man, congrats!

Do you have problems with those control knobs? The ones I got sometimes when you tighten the set screw they bind the pot. I'm trying to find better quality ones.
 
Dude that's awesome! Have you posted clips anywhere yet?
 
FourT6and2":3iz6eave said:
Awesome job man, congrats!

Do you have problems with those control knobs? The ones I got sometimes when you tighten the set screw they bind the pot. I'm trying to find better quality ones.
Only if I push them all of the way flush with the panel before tightening. I leave a little space between the knob and panel before tightening
 
FourT6and2":1ioi31be said:
Awesome job man, congrats!

Do you have problems with those control knobs? The ones I got sometimes when you tighten the set screw they bind the pot. I'm trying to find better quality ones.
ill have some much better clips tomorrow after I take it to a buddy for some better chops
 
That looks awesome! I got lost on the structure switch thing, it sounded like HBE was too hot but then it sounded like you added gain by halving the cathode resistor and adding a bypass cap. Do I have that backwards?
 
SpiderWars":1qqf4h73 said:
That looks awesome! I got lost on the structure switch thing, it sounded like HBE was too hot but then it sounded like you added gain by halving the cathode resistor and adding a bypass cap. Do I have that backwards?
On the 2016 BE100, the on board v2a cathode resistor is 10k. Stock, the structure switch gives you the option stock 10k in the middle, a parallel 4.7k to the right, and a parallelled 3.3k/.68uf to the left. The pre-2016 just and a 2.7k/.68uf v2a. So, with the the structure in the highest gain setting, it was way too high gain with the HBE engaged, and with hot pickups you would get some unwanted feedback. What I did was when switching to HBE, it would remove the structure switch out of the circuit and and add a 10k/.33uf in parallel with the on board 10k so that you are getting 5k/.33uf vs 2.7k/.68
 
Congratulations! Looks great! You are the first one to reach the finish line with that project chassis that I designed! I had a head start on everyone and am still tweaking the layout for my first build with it!
 
And do you mean 100% of 100% or maybe one...last...tweak. :lol: :LOL:
 
valvestorm":1i4mfdjm said:
Congratulations! Looks great! You are the first one to reach the finish line with that project chassis that I designed! I had a head start on everyone and am still tweaking the layout for my first build with it!
Robert,

I love that chassis. I appreciate your help with all of the parts and measurents. Goingto pick up another this week. Tempted to try a CCV100 based clone next. I just need to figure out the filtering and switching matrix.

Anyone looking for build stuff, I highly recommend Valvestorm. Quick shipping and very responsive to my excessive questions :rock:
 
Rdodson":3psjo76w said:
Wow, really cool. You are here in Big D?
Arlington but work in Dallas. I like all of your BE100 clips. Would you considered trying it out and giving be some feedback? No to mention my playing sucks and I do it any justice in of my videos
 
These amp builds are the best thing on RT right now. Looking forward to seeing your next build! :thumbsup:
 
Where is the cab from again? I bought one from Mojo for my first build and I'm not that happy with the quality. Staples sticking out, screws for the feet go all the way through the floor and stick up, preventing the chassis from sliding in/out, the front lip of the floor is raised, so it overlaps the front plate of the chassis and covers the writing for the bright switches, the rear panel has no ferrels for the screws, so they are tearing the tolex and cracking the wood, the front is pretty loose. It's held on by screws and glued, but the glue is weak/hasn't set yet and the panel has movement in it. The actual wood used is quite thin. Overall, just a crap job. I ordered another one from Sourmash. So I'll see if that's any better.
 
FourT6and2":33ccxani said:
Where is the cab from again? I bought one from Mojo for my first build and I'm not that happy with the quality. Staples sticking out, screws for the feet go all the way through the floor and stick up, preventing the chassis from sliding in/out, the front lip of the floor is raised, so it overlaps the front plate of the chassis and covers the writing for the bright switches, the rear panel has no ferrels for the screws, so they are tearing the tolex and cracking the wood, the front is pretty loose. It's held on by screws and glued, but the glue is weak/hasn't set yet and the panel has movement in it. The actual wood used is quite thin. Overall, just a crap job. I ordered another one from Sourmash. So I'll see if that's any better.


http://valvestorm.com/HeadCabs
 
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