Re-Wiring Speaker Cabs

[kerryk]

Had some time this morning to do some rewiring on my speaker cabs

Due to the fire I had, I replaced a pair of Marshall A/B Cabs with Mather B/B Cabs

One of the Marshall cabs was a 1960A the other was an unlabeled older cab
the JCM900 1960A was equipped with a Quad of G12T75s the other cab had Celestions in it but due to damage to the cab they didn't get a new home.
My buddy found a quad from a Bogner Uberkab for sale here and I snapped them up X Mix of 12T75s and V30s the 12T75s are Made in England and the V30s are Chinese in origin...

To my ear my well worn 12T75s sound much fuller... the Mix sounds different.
Not better or worse just different.

I re-wired the G12T75s first using some 12 Ga. Cable I did the second Cab with the X Quad in it. For the Record Bogner uses 10 Ga. wire in their cabs.
I use 12 Ga, and I really see no need for 10 Ga. but the bread tie wire that Marshall used SHEESH!
The OEM wiring in my Marshall Cabs was disappointing!
the skinny one is from my Marshall Cab

My work is not as tidy as I would have liked but it will be functional for sure.
Cab is wired 16 Ohm Series Parrallel also gives you a view inside a Mather Cab. Peter Mather built these for me as requested.

I also replaced the Craptastic Plastic Marshall Jack with a Switchcraft unit.
I feel better now. more to follow.

 

[thegame]

I use mainly older Celestions with the old style speaker tabs (bottom pic) :
The heaviest guage I can solder to those is 14 Ga, and its a total pain in the ass working with those connectors.

 

[kerryk]

I use mainly older Celestions with the old style speaker tabs (bottom pic) :
The heaviest guage I can solder to those is 14 Ga, and its a total pain in the ass working with those connectors.

While I am NASA certified on Soldering I HATE the idea of soldering heavy gauge wire to those terminals the speaker internal wiring is WAY smaller than the other wiring.

These speakers have the QC tabs So I used those connectors even though Bogner had soldered the 10Ga to them originally.
I do Crimp the QC Terminals down a bit more so they are Better "Electrically" and more Vibration Proof. Adding SOME strain relief with Heat Shrink.

If I were building Speakers for sale to the masses I would Use Teflon Covered 12 Ga Wire, Switchcraft or Neutrik Jacks.

 

[Anonymous]

you can also solder wire to those push on tabs. all 4 of my cabs, i have done it this way. eliminates the worry, and the variable of it coming off. lots of us do it that way.

 

[BC Audio]

I rewired a newer Marshall cab years ago, and I was shocked at how thin the wire was. I'm sure it technically can handle the current, but...

 

[Anonymous]

I rewired a newer Marshall cab years ago, and I was shocked at how thin the wire was. I'm sure it technically can handle the current, but...

if you think about it, the actual wire in most speakers (at least ones i have looked at) have a really thin, maybe 18 or 16 AWG wire in them. so, using bigger wire from the jack to speaker itself seems like it would create a bottleneck of sorts...but, hey, i like heavy duty everything...

 

[kerryk]

I rewired a newer Marshall cab years ago, and I was shocked at how thin the wire was. I'm sure it technically can handle the current, but...

if you think about it, the actual wire in most speakers (at least ones i have looked at) have a really thin, maybe 18 or 16 AWG wire in them. so, using bigger wire from the jack to speaker itself seems like it would create a bottleneck of sorts...but, hey, i like heavy duty everything...

Exactly the "SPEAKER" should be the weak link, so if you pop a speaker in a SERIES PARALLEL circuit it doesn't just creat an open, the service wiring maintains integrity instead of becoming a fuisible link.

I guarantee you ALL have flown in aircraft that have my soldering work on board in critical areas and my sign off is on the equipment. Hell I DESIGNED some of that gear!