Blackedout Recto - Remove Chassis out of Headshell

[SPRTAN]

So I’ve got a blacked out Faceplate for my MW Triple Recto. I know how to get the old one off and stuff.
But how do I get the chassis out of the Headshell?
Google and Manual says I just need to losen 4 screws at the bottom and slide the chassis out like a drawer.
I’ve read somewhere else that the might be a bolt in the middle of the chassis that I should aware of.

Whelp…?

 

[311boogieman]

1. I've never seen an amp chassis with a bolt in the middle.
2. On my dual and single it is just the 4 bolts like most amps.
3. If it helps, you can take some of the power tubes out and grab the transformers and lift up and out with amp facing the floor.
4. If you have swapped the faceplates before how do you not know this?
5. Profit

 

[SPRTAN]

Alright. Sounds easy. Thanks.

Regarding the faceplate. I’ve read it up and got it validated from Brett at Mesa.
It’s just double sided 3M Industrial Tape. Heatgun. Razorblade. Pri it off with a Spatula or Flat Screwdriver.
Profit.

 

[311boogieman]

Alright. Sounds easy. Thanks.

Regarding the faceplate. I’ve read it up and got it validated from Brett at Mesa.
It’s just double sided 3M Industrial Tape. Heatgun. Razorblade. Pri it off with a Spatula or Flat Screwdriver.
Profit.

Wow. I didn't know. I only thought people painted them. I guess you'd have to get it off to paint it? Either way, please report back with a non fucked up beautiful faceplate upgrade or whatever you are doing.

 

[mnemonic]

I believe some combos have a long bolt in the chassis that is tightened against the headshell to prevent vibration, not loosening that first may tear up the foil shielding in the headshell. But I don’t think the heads have this. My recto doesn’t.

 

[SPRTAN]

Faceplate and Top Vent arrived today. Kinda expensive but Blackout still looks awesome.
Gonna change it up on the weekend. I’ll Document it and post it here for others.

Still thinking about black knobs. But I have a Engl xxl 412 incoming wich also has a Chrome Logo. - So it might fit.
And this Stuff is expensive here in Europe (21 Euro per Knob). And you are very limited wich Knobs to use as only 1/4“ (6.35mm) Knobs fit..no 6mm Knobs cuz f metric.

 

[SPRTAN]

Alright. Replaced the Faceplate today.
As expected it’s just glued on with some double sided industrial tape.
You have almost no room to work in.
First i did warm it up with a hairdryer. If it’s hot that you almost can’t touch it. It’s good to go. But take care of the tolex. Than i ran a razor blade through the tape to create a gap for tools. Then heat it up again, stem the gap with a spatula, fork and then chisel and stick some wedges in between to make the gap even wider.
You then will hear it coming of. Heat it up again. Protect the front of the Headshell with tape and pull it of step by step.
Done.
For the new plate i did put some double sided Mirror Tape on the Headshell. This stuff is heavy duty and you can hook up, hence the name, mirrors on tiles without drilling with it.
At last did put some weight on it and let it rest for a few minutes.

 

[SPRTAN]

And just for you @311boogieman ..a non fucked up Faceplate!

 

[mnemonic]

Looks real good. Sometimes people paint it and the shade of black isn’t the same as the front panel and it looks kinda off. That one matches good.

 

[SPRTAN]

Looks real good. Sometimes people paint it and the shade of black isn’t the same as the front panel and it looks kinda off. That one matches good.

Thanks.
Well it’s actually an original Mesa Faceplate - it’s the same as one the Reissues. And i was sooo lucky to get my hands on. Because you usually can’t get it. Every Dealer and even the Distributor in Europe weren’t able to organize one for me.
But after quite a few mails back and forth with Mesa, some begging, and almost ready to send some nudes over. They agreed to get me one.
Mesa Support in Cali is awesome!
Quite expensive tho.

Another way would be to getting the normal one anodized and the vent powder coated.

Pro tip: The top vent in the shell is black on the other side..just flip it over and screw it back in.

 

[311boogieman]

And just for you @311boogieman ..a non fucked up Faceplate!

Looks great man. I want to do it but I don't trust myself. I would def fuck it up. Thanks for the detail though, and good to know on the top vent.


here is a close up for ya to show the quality work

 

[SPRTAN]

Looks great man. I want to do it but I don't trust myself. I would def fuck it up. Thanks for the detail though, and good to know on the top vent.


here is a close up for ya to show the quality work

I dont get your point?!
As already mentioned this is a original mesa sparepart. It’s the exact same plate as on the new reissues! Nothing painted or plasti dipped by myself.
And it’s absolutely normal with anodized and powdercoated stuff, that the surface or „paint“ is slightly uneven! It’s the limitation of the process.The rest is just Fingerprints..

Heck even car paint is like that if you see it in the right light (Google orangepeel effect). But cars often get buffed afterwards to minimize the effect.

 

[311boogieman]

Sorry. I've been away from computers and social media etc for 2 weeks so just trying to catch up. Absolutely was not complaining about the look of it. I think it looks great. I just blew up for an easy quick view. No worries. Carry on.

 

[311boogieman]

Every Dealer and even the Distributor in Europe weren’t able to organize one for me.

FYI, I saw a Rev F for sale on FB that is in Sweden.

 

[Exo-metal]

https://www.craigslist.org/view/d/concord-mesa-boogie-dual-rectifier-rev/8XowPFZRurwdZ71nRiZoT9