So...I have a Mark IV on the way but....

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dimebag11
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Remember one thing about the push/pull knobs. When in doubt, pull it out. :rock:

And don't give up quickly if you don't hear anything that sounds good, a little tweaking goes a long way.
 
Do you play in a band or just wank in a basement?
A bassist adds the low end in your band mix so worry more about overall voicing and feel rather than lo end. The Mark IV is one of the best ever made.
If you just wank in your basement then who cares how you sound. ;) :lol: :LOL:
 
danyeo":2215lg0n said:
....When in doubt, pull it out. :rock:

Following that philosophy has gotten me arrested a couple of times.
 
The low end is not big like a recto, but it has a nice thump and punch to it. As already mentioned, use the graphic for your low end, not the bass knob (I don't set mine over 2.5) and if you really want to add even more low end, try an eq pedal in the loop. You can get some downright evil and huge tones between the Mark's graphic eq and an eq pedal in the loop. (although it kind of defeats the purpose of having a Mark IV)

One thing's for sure, if you're used to scooped chunk, the Mark will make you play tighter!
 
Congrats, The Mark IV is a great amp.

Definitely take your time dialing it in. Learning how the controls interact with each other is key. The treble effects the gain stage a lot, but don't be afraid of it, it's not like diming the treble on a twin. It's a good kind of treble and it needs to be up there to get you into the sweet spot.

The presence also can do some cool stuff. I leave mine pushed but check out how they change the sound when you pull them. You might like it. Just take turn each knob up and down and really get a feel for how the controls work. It's not like other amps but it really isn't hard to dial in either.

Scott :rock:
 
gibson5413":4z7922gt said:
Ask and you shall receive (Ralph and SFW's settings). Perfect places to start. I use these as my guides:

hal9000MarkIVSettingsGainfreakRevB_zps290a9200.jpg


hal9000SFWMarkIVSettingsRevB_zps651c2565.jpg

Thanks for sharing, my settings if my memory is correct are pretty close to Gainfreak's. :)
 
Just Pm'ed you back!


Keep in mind that my EQ settings work well with the speakers that I use. It wont sound as good when using brighter speakers, so screwing around with the EQ is key!

You will notice that SFW's setting are pretty much like mine but notice his eq Pattern ;)

Using our settings and adjusting the eq WILL BE the KEY.
 
glassjaw7":1st9u0ix said:
The low end is not big like a recto, but it has a nice thump and punch to it. As already mentioned, use the graphic for your low end, not the bass knob (I don't set mine over 2.5) and if you really want to add even more low end, try an eq pedal in the loop. You can get some downright evil and huge tones between the Mark's graphic eq and an eq pedal in the loop. (although it kind of defeats the purpose of having a Mark IV)

One thing's for sure, if you're used to scooped chunk, the Mark will make you play tighter!

One cool thing about using an EQ in the loop is you can do a reverse V. Scoop the amp's EQ for a Master Of Puppets tone, then spike the mid with an EQ pedal in the loop and you'll get that Stryper tone in spades. Kinda like using the Boss Flanger for the LeTekro sound, it works soo good on the Mark amps. I was screwing around with it the other night and was just laughing.
 
danyeo":1vhocxpr said:
glassjaw7":1vhocxpr said:
The low end is not big like a recto, but it has a nice thump and punch to it. As already mentioned, use the graphic for your low end, not the bass knob (I don't set mine over 2.5) and if you really want to add even more low end, try an eq pedal in the loop. You can get some downright evil and huge tones between the Mark's graphic eq and an eq pedal in the loop. (although it kind of defeats the purpose of having a Mark IV)

One thing's for sure, if you're used to scooped chunk, the Mark will make you play tighter!

One cool thing about using an EQ in the loop is you can do a reverse V. Scoop the amp's EQ for a Master Of Puppets tone, then spike the mid with an EQ pedal in the loop and you'll get that Stryper tone in spades. Kinda like using the Boss Flanger for the LeTekro sound, it works soo good on the Mark amps. I was screwing around with it the other night and was just laughing.

Cool! Sort of how Dime would scoop his mids and then add them back in with that MXR rack eq. One thing I noticed about the IV is that you can drastically change the eq, but as long as you balance a big cut with another boost, you end up with a very similar tone. For example, these are close to my normal settings:

808f254d.jpg


I can boost the 750 above the center line and it would get honky as hell, but if I drop the upper mid slider (2200) down to where the middle slider was, it balances out nicely and gets an alternate lead tone that is a little more mid heavy, but smoother and silkier:

a451d970.jpg
It's all about balance and sculpting the tone to your speakers.
I also do something similar to that "reverse eq" thing. With the settings in the lower pic, for a really chunky rhythm tone I'll use my eq like this:
11fe48af.jpg
 
glassjaw7":uyzx1rtq said:
danyeo":uyzx1rtq said:
glassjaw7":uyzx1rtq said:
The low end is not big like a recto, but it has a nice thump and punch to it. As already mentioned, use the graphic for your low end, not the bass knob (I don't set mine over 2.5) and if you really want to add even more low end, try an eq pedal in the loop. You can get some downright evil and huge tones between the Mark's graphic eq and an eq pedal in the loop. (although it kind of defeats the purpose of having a Mark IV)

One thing's for sure, if you're used to scooped chunk, the Mark will make you play tighter!

One cool thing about using an EQ in the loop is you can do a reverse V. Scoop the amp's EQ for a Master Of Puppets tone, then spike the mid with an EQ pedal in the loop and you'll get that Stryper tone in spades. Kinda like using the Boss Flanger for the LeTekro sound, it works soo good on the Mark amps. I was screwing around with it the other night and was just laughing.

Cool! Sort of how Dime would scoop his mids and then add them back in with that MXR rack eq. One thing I noticed about the IV is that you can drastically change the eq, but as long as you balance a big cut with another boost, you end up with a very similar tone. For example, these are close to my normal settings:

808f254d.jpg


I can boost the 750 above the center line and it would get honky as hell, but if I drop the upper mid slider (2200) down to where the middle slider was, it balances out nicely and gets an alternate lead tone that is a little more mid heavy, but smoother and silkier:

a451d970.jpg
It's all about balance and sculpting the tone to your speakers.
I also do something similar to that "reverse eq" thing. With the settings in the lower pic, for a really chunky rhythm tone I'll use my eq like this:
11fe48af.jpg

Yup, Pretty spot on.

I have had my MKIV since 91-92 and I'm still finding new sounds/tones on that thing because of the Graphic EQ.


One thing that I will mention is that when Boosting Mids like Danny said, I like to use an EQ before the amp and NOT IN THE LOOP.

My rule of thumb that has worked for me over the years is that I use and EQ before the amp when Boosting mids and when cutting, I use an EQ in the Loop. That has always worked for me, but that is not to say that it wont work any other way. It's all about experimenting!!

:rock: :rock: :rock:
 
If Mark IV's are anything III's then you should have plenty of low end. If you need more bass than that then you might really be a bass player. ;)
 
gibson5413":16mihu6c said:
Ask and you shall receive (Ralph and SFW's settings). Perfect places to start. I use these as my guides:

hal9000MarkIVSettingsGainfreakRevB_zps290a9200.jpg


hal9000SFWMarkIVSettingsRevB_zps651c2565.jpg


My settings are closer to SFW's except that I usually pull the Lead Presence. In a band setting though that may be too dark. Pulling the Presence actually cuts top-end IMO.
 
My favorite LEAD channel sounds from the Mesa Mark amps is with the GEQ off....it can cut better than a Marshall often. I use the GEQ more often with RHY2.
 
what does the simul-class setting do? Is that only if you have 2 6L6's and 2 EL34s? I not...what does it do?
 
Dimebag11":28yalopl said:
what does the simul-class setting do? Is that only if you have 2 6L6's and 2 EL34s? I not...what does it do?
no. simulclass works regardless if you use a combo of tubes. Here is Mesa's blurb on it


In late 1982 an experiment in tone shaping within the power section, using esoteric
power transformers and unique power tube wiring configurations, gave birth to the first tube
power amp that incorporated two types of tube power operating simultaneously. These two
types or "Classes" of operation were Class A Triode and Class AB Pentode. The older Class
A style of wiring was popular in the early tweed amps of the 50's and produced a sweet
bubbling and bouncy tone - though not much power. As electric music became more popular,
louder and more powerful amps were needed. Class A wiring was discarded in favor of the
more efficient, cooler running Class AB Pentode wiring scheme. So ended an era of sweet
tweed amps. As we all know, those gems of yesteryear are much sought after today. Well,
both styles of wiring have their advantages; Class A Triode for sweet tone and a spongy easy
to play feel, Class AB Pentode for power, punch and cool reliability. To us, it made perfect
sense to marry all these attributes and combine two simultaneous classes of operation into
one power section. Thus the name Simul-Class.
 
There is 8 different poweramp voices on the IV. Controlled by the Half/Full power ~ Class A / Simul-Class ~ Pentode / Triode ~ switches.

Half / Full ~ works like a variac.

Class A / Simul Class ~ Only the outside pair (2) of powertubes is Class A .... in this case it would be the EL34's. Simul Class is running all (4) powertubes are running. The inside set is Class AB..... hence the name Simul Class - Both Class A & Class AB.

Pentode / Triode ~ only works on the Class A section of the amp. Only switches the outside set.

Everything is in the manual & is done very good for a manual...
http://www.mesaboogie.com/manuals/Mark%204.pdf
 
Another tip- try switching from Harmonics to Mid-Gain. It adds a lot of guts and punch.
 
Ty again gain freak :) I started w your settings and ended up similar. Lowered the graphic eq on the high end and mids a bit. Otherwise pretty close
 
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