Speaker cable popping out of 4x12 cab...

  • Thread starter Thread starter FondledDuck
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FondledDuck

FondledDuck

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Anyone else experience this? At loud levels my speaker cable pops out of the input jack just enough to break the connection. Only at moderate/high levels of volume. I am using a Marshall cab with V30's and T75's in an X pattern...brand new input jacks and brand new speaker cable. This is an older JCM 800 cab...upgraded with a birch back.

Could it be that the cab is that solid that the air pressure builds up and pops the cable out? I would assume air loss would occur elsewhere besides just the input jack...handles, the other input jack, etc.

Considering a locking input jack...Neutrik, etc.
 
Use a locking or lose your output transformer, bad news. Yes the pressure could pop it out, I say no matter the reason go locking and forget it.
 
+1 on the locking jack Neutric makes a great one. Might need a new jack plate though since they are quite large.

But yeah if you loose connection between the head, and cab you can fry your output transformer.
 
i had a vht front loaded cab and i was popping the jack all the time!

fixed it with a locking neutrik.
 
I think I found a mounting plate on Amazon...gotta verify it's the right dimensions...looks right so far.

https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Elcom-D0604K ... pd_sim_e_6

GuitarGuyLP":rqrnlod6 said:
+1 on the locking jack Neutric makes a great one. Might need a new jack plate though since they are quite large.

But yeah if you loose connection between the head, and cab you can fry your output transformer.
 
Being a forum primarily of men, I am surprised no mention of duct tape has yet been made.
 
I don't know for sure, but the neutric web site has detailed diagrams showing the sizes. I just used a stepper bit to bore out the existing jack plate when I installed one in the past.
 
Ok, did some digging and it will work. The plate holes are sized for "D" series connectors...speakon and the 1/4 locking are "D" series sized shells. But I am looking at the mounting plate...there is no threading in the holes where they meet up with the locking connecter...how does it stay?

You bore yours bigger, how did you secure yours to the plate?

GuitarGuyLP":37zzw1qp said:
I don't know for sure, but the neutric web site has detailed diagrams showing the sizes. I just used a stepper bit to bore out the existing jack plate when I installed one in the past.
 
Hey Ventura :poke: I went one step up from duct tape...self threading sheet metal screws
 
Indeed.

Just not sure why there are no threads in the mounting plate...perhaps I just can't see them...but it appears too thin to have threads.

GuitarGuyLP":205gx2e6 said:
Hey Ventura :poke: I went one step up from duct tape...self threading sheet metal screws
 
The mounting plate does not have threads. Regular jacks are held in by the nut, the locking Neutrik ones are held in with two screws.

31EWVgPUPwL.jpg
 
You could use self-tapping sheet metal screws or, better yet, machine screws w/ locking nuts.
 
Jeez, I'm gonna tripple post here...

The Cliff jacks are near impossible to adjust, but if you install Scwitchcraft jacks you can tighten up how hard they grip the plug just by bending the tip conductor with your fingers. Not as good as locking, but usually good enough.

switchcraft-jack-2.jpg
 
I always add another screw to the center of the post brace,cuts the vibration way down and speaker cables stay in.Be sure to pre-drill and find center of brace first. This works on 3 Bogner's,1 Diezel and a Cameron . Wizard cabs come standard like this.Good Luck
 
Ventura":unb4qapf said:
Being a forum primarily of men, I am surprised no mention of duct tape has yet been made.

that was either an attempt at a funny......

or a blaspheme on a site full of...... :lol: :LOL:
 
Ventura":24tnahzp said:
Being a forum primarily of men, I am surprised no mention of duct tape has yet been made.


This is a forum rife of resale value. :D
 
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