Talk to me about Floyd Upgrade Sustain Blocks

[Gsxrbusa]

Hmm, I appreciate the advice. My biggest problem with this guitar is that it's a tad muddier than my other guitars. It retains this quality even unplugged, so I know it's not an electronics issue. I think the best way to describe it is that when I go to do a lead or melody line or something, no matter how hard I pick the notes go 'thunk' instead of how I think they should sound. Low power chords have body for days and tons of low end, but seem to lack cut and quickness. I've swapped at least 5 bridge pickups and it always tells the same story. It's not a bad sounding guitar, it just could be a little better I think. I was hoping the brass block would bring out more high harmonics, but now it seems that it may not. Thoughts?

What you may want to try first is the titanium string lock blocks. I put them in a few muddy guitars and it really brightened and tightened things up. In some guitars they had too bright of an effect so YMMV. I usually like the titanium blocks on the g b and high e strings.

http://www.floydupgrades.com/catalog/in ... cts_id=194

Now that the details have been revealed, yes, sad but true. I say sad because the Ti blocks are not at all cheap. |But it would seem Ti may be the way to go, even though I still think the brass unit will kick ass. And if you're going to try this route out, ask Adam to purchase one of each, and try each of them out, and ask if you can return the one that doesn't work out for you. I think he's a reasonable enough man to handle this proposition.

Big difference between $40 and $400.

Peace,
V.

Hey V, I think you misunderstood me. I am talking about the block that actually retains the string inside the saddle, not the saddle itself. They are only $40 for 6 of em. I have had good results on some guitars with them. But yeah, the titanium saddles are crazy cash.

 

[Ventura]

Hmm, I appreciate the advice. My biggest problem with this guitar is that it's a tad muddier than my other guitars. It retains this quality even unplugged, so I know it's not an electronics issue. I think the best way to describe it is that when I go to do a lead or melody line or something, no matter how hard I pick the notes go 'thunk' instead of how I think they should sound. Low power chords have body for days and tons of low end, but seem to lack cut and quickness. I've swapped at least 5 bridge pickups and it always tells the same story. It's not a bad sounding guitar, it just could be a little better I think. I was hoping the brass block would bring out more high harmonics, but now it seems that it may not. Thoughts?

What you may want to try first is the titanium string lock blocks. I put them in a few muddy guitars and it really brightened and tightened things up. In some guitars they had too bright of an effect so YMMV. I usually like the titanium blocks on the g b and high e strings.

http://www.floydupgrades.com/catalog/in ... cts_id=194

Now that the details have been revealed, yes, sad but true. I say sad because the Ti blocks are not at all cheap. |But it would seem Ti may be the way to go, even though I still think the brass unit will kick ass. And if you're going to try this route out, ask Adam to purchase one of each, and try each of them out, and ask if you can return the one that doesn't work out for you. I think he's a reasonable enough man to handle this proposition.

Big difference between $40 and $400.

Peace,
V.

Hey V, I think you misunderstood me. I am talking about the block that actually retains the string inside the saddle, not the saddle itself. They are only $40 for 6 of em. I have had good results on some guitars with them. But yeah, the titanium saddles are crazy cash.

Yep, double misunderstanding. I was thinking about the Ti big blocks, they brighten things up and still do all the magic for the sustain and richness of any OFR equipped guitar. I'm strictly talking about these rectangular hunks of metal that get screwed onto the bottom of the OFR's blade.

As for saddles, totally different ballgame.

Peace M'Man!!
V.

 

[JakeAC5253]

You guys are quick! Love this forum!

That's a pretty big difference in the video actually... Hmm, well I measured my existing block and it seems like it's right in between 34 and 35mm... Should I go for the 37mm block? There's not a WHOLE lot of extra room in the compartment, but there is some... I don't use the bar either really, just keep the bridge floating and the nut unlocked.

No, 34mm. And it should state right on the current block what the size is in mm. You don't want to stray from this due to distance limitations within the trem cavity.

Just pulled the damned thing out and get the real reading on it, order a new on (brass), install it, and be amazed. Best $40 I spent on my guitar. Only thing is, I'm finding I'm still less and less a trem kinda guy (I'm old school, I liked fixed bridges ).



V.

I can definitely see the logic. The only hiccup I see is that the aftermarket blocks on floydupgrades and killerguitarcomponents make a jump from 32mm to 37mm. I sent an email over to the guy at floydupgrades.com and he said 37mm should be fine.

No hiccup in size with the kgc blocks as they will do anything you need. I had them make me a totally custom block for a really odd ibanez bridge. Custom thickness to. I wanted it to make contact with the body and prevent pulling up on the bar. I have a heavy picking hand.

Floyd upgrades is just a middle man peddling blocks made by someone else to standard specs , kgc is a fully functioning machine shop.

I like that

Maybe I'll have to shoot an email over there and see what's up. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[moltenmetalburn]

You guys are quick! Love this forum!

That's a pretty big difference in the video actually... Hmm, well I measured my existing block and it seems like it's right in between 34 and 35mm... Should I go for the 37mm block? There's not a WHOLE lot of extra room in the compartment, but there is some... I don't use the bar either really, just keep the bridge floating and the nut unlocked.

No, 34mm. And it should state right on the current block what the size is in mm. You don't want to stray from this due to distance limitations within the trem cavity.

Just pulled the damned thing out and get the real reading on it, order a new on (brass), install it, and be amazed. Best $40 I spent on my guitar. Only thing is, I'm finding I'm still less and less a trem kinda guy (I'm old school, I liked fixed bridges :



V.

I can definitely see the logic. The only hiccup I see is that the aftermarket blocks on floydupgrades and killerguitarcomponents make a jump from 32mm to 37mm. I sent an email over to the guy at floydupgrades.com and he said 37mm should be fine.

No hiccup in size with the kgc blocks as they will do anything you need. I had them make me a totally custom block for a really odd ibanez bridge. Custom thickness to. I wanted it to make contact with the body and prevent pulling up on the bar. I have a heavy picking hand.

Floyd upgrades is just a middle man peddling blocks made by someone else to standard specs , kgc is a fully functioning machine shop.

I like that

Maybe I'll have to shoot an email over there and see what's up. Thanks for the heads up.

No problem.

Here's my review and some pics.
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=61720

And their site.
http://www.killerguitarcomponents.com/

 

[Ayrton]

Any idea if he sells blocks for Ibanez too?

I got both my OFR and Ibanez blocks from here... no complaints.

http://shop.ebay.com/hoockey/m.html?_nk ... ksid=p3686

 

[jkdsteve]

From all the reviews and clips, a Big Block might've stopped me from selling countless Ibanez guitars after getting fed up with their thin sounds. :shrug:

 

[Ayrton]

The difference (for me) was larger on the Ibanez because of the craptastic pot metal block Gotoh/Ibanez use on the Edge trems.

 

[Gsxrbusa]

Hmm, I appreciate the advice. My biggest problem with this guitar is that it's a tad muddier than my other guitars. It retains this quality even unplugged, so I know it's not an electronics issue. I think the best way to describe it is that when I go to do a lead or melody line or something, no matter how hard I pick the notes go 'thunk' instead of how I think they should sound. Low power chords have body for days and tons of low end, but seem to lack cut and quickness. I've swapped at least 5 bridge pickups and it always tells the same story. It's not a bad sounding guitar, it just could be a little better I think. I was hoping the brass block would bring out more high harmonics, but now it seems that it may not. Thoughts?

What you may want to try first is the titanium string lock blocks. I put them in a few muddy guitars and it really brightened and tightened things up. In some guitars they had too bright of an effect so YMMV. I usually like the titanium blocks on the g b and high e strings.

http://www.floydupgrades.com/catalog/in ... cts_id=194

Now that the details have been revealed, yes, sad but true. I say sad because the Ti blocks are not at all cheap. |But it would seem Ti may be the way to go, even though I still think the brass unit will kick ass. And if you're going to try this route out, ask Adam to purchase one of each, and try each of them out, and ask if you can return the one that doesn't work out for you. I think he's a reasonable enough man to handle this proposition.

Big difference between $40 and $400.

Peace,
V.

Hey V, I think you misunderstood me. I am talking about the block that actually retains the string inside the saddle, not the saddle itself. They are only $40 for 6 of em. I have had good results on some guitars with them. But yeah, the titanium saddles are crazy cash.

Yep, double misunderstanding. I was thinking about the Ti big blocks, they brighten things up and still do all the magic for the sustain and richness of any OFR equipped guitar. I'm strictly talking about these rectangular hunks of metal that get screwed onto the bottom of the OFR's blade.

As for saddles, totally different ballgame.

Peace M'Man!!
V.

Yep double wammy. When you said Titanium I instantly thought of those bazillion dollar saddles they have. But in reality you meant the Bazillion dollar big blocks.....I understand now. Either way I would try the brass big block first and then do the inserts for the saddles for a less expensive alternative than the titanium block. The titanium block does interest me at this point on one of my guitars because with the brass bb and the pickup I have in it it is just a touch dark. Maybe the titanium would bring it up to snuff.

 

[dulrich1227]

not sure if it was mentioned but you want as much brass as you can fit.. measure with a ruler in mm from the base of the floyd to the cavity opening ...

 

[Ventura]

And JUST for the record... Jimmy Page, Jimi Hendrix, SRV, Eric Clapton, Becker, Malmsteen, and a host of others....














....did not, or do not give a rats ass about big block upgrades

It is us, who are a bunch of sick men. And Laura maybe too.

V.

 

[rokker]

Put one in a Suhr Classic and it made a big difference, more clarity, more sustain.
Also put two Goeldo Backboxes imbetween the Floyd's springs and a schaller sureclaw.
now it's dive only but it absolutely will not go out of tune ever.
The backbox is an overlooked upgrade for those wanting a dive only floyd....also increases sustain and is much more rugged than the tremelno which I found to be quite delicate.

 

[OUTLAW1969]

I have the floydupgrades version in my floyd loaded guitars. I don't use the tremolo at all but I think the brass blocks made a nice improvement in my fiddles.

+1. Huge improvement on sustain over the thin "pot metal or steel" blocks. HEAVY brass is the key!

 

[MYLILSS]

I have several from this guy, and could not be more pleased.

http://myworld.ebay.com/hoockey/?_trksid=p4340.l2559

plus one here ... i have bought several from this guy and he is awesome to deal with. he can also do custom work as well. top notch products and great service, with quick shipping. i have one of his brass blocks on every guitar i have with a trem, not to mention all of my full floating floyds have one of his brass trem stops.

as for the block itself, it makes a huge difference in the overall tone of the guitar. fullness, harmonics, and sustain among other things. definately worth the money