The string locking system on my g&l...

[glassjaw7]

is old and sort of outdated. It doesn't seem to work that well.
I read an interview with Cantrell where he stated that he had this same "guitar-tech" locking system on his rampages and had them changed to the Floyd Rose locking nut.

How difficult/expensive would it be to change over to the FR nut? Would I be better off buying locking tuners?

FWIW this guitar sounds amazing. It just resonates and "breathes" much better than my other axes, and it really doesn't need to be locked, I'm just a tuning nazi.

 

[Ancient Alien]

You can get a Kahler, behind the nut lock to replace it so you don't have to route.
I think it's the 5513 locking nut.
If you are interested I have a behind the nut lock that has quick release tabs. Holds as good as a OFR nut and you don't need an allen wrench to tighten it.
I'll take pictures and post it if you want.

 

[Sixtonoize]

If your guitar resonates and breathes as well as you say it does, I'd be hesitant to do something as drastic as routing it for a Floyd nut.

A guitar with true mojo is a pretty damn magical equation - change one thing, and it can screw up everything else.
I'd leave it as is and deal with the tuning issues.


...



Also - has anyone else noticed that guitars that really have "IT" also tend to have tuning issues?
It seems like every time I've played a guitar that seemed like it was a truly magical piece, it was a bitch to get/stay in tune.

 

[Ancient Alien]

Heres the nut. It's a German made Schaller. Chrome and Black

 

[Ancient Alien]

With quick releases closed.
Only 4 small screws to attach to your headstock.

 

[Ancient Alien]

If your guitar resonates and breathes as well as you say it does, I'd be hesitant to do something as drastic as routing it for a Floyd nut.

A guitar with true mojo is a pretty damn magical equation - change one thing, and it can screw up everything else.
I'd leave it as is and deal with the tuning issues.


...



Also - has anyone else noticed that guitars that really have "IT" also tend to have tuning issues?
It seems like every time I've played a guitar that seemed like it was a truly magical piece, it was a bitch to get/stay in tune.

Exactly. Thats why I suggest replacing the nut BEHIND the saddle. Routing a FR nut will definitely change it's MOJO.
As for guitars with "IT" and tuning issues. Any stock Les Paul

 

[Tawlks]

I'd go for locking tuners myself, because

If you don't like it you can put them on another guitar

If you're not satisfied then you haven't chopped up your guitar to have them fitted.

 

[Ancient Alien]

And a bad photoshop of what it would kind of look like installed.

 

[Ancient Alien]

Or locking tuners and some Big Bends Nut Sauce

 

[EXPcustom]

I have that big schaller locking nut on my 85 Rampage that the previous owner put on.

Makes the haedstock weigh a pound more in the front, bulky and awkward. I am going to send it to Cantrell's old tech to put the Floyd nut on and recess the Kahler.

 

[Strat+Marshall]

Behind the nut locks don't work as well as at the nut ones because the strings usually bind up at the nut. The floyd nut will give you the best stability, otherwise you might as well get locking tuners or just take that one off.

 

[glassjaw7]

Ya know, I might just opt for the locking tuners. I don't want to mess up the great sound I'm getting. Thanks guys!

 

[glassjaw7]

Now here's my next question:

My Kahler bridge is the Hybrid fixed bridge(no whammy bar action) Can I install a Kahler hybrid trem without any routing of the body? Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the Kahler trem just move within the context of the bridge itself, therefore not pushing down "into" the body like a Floyd would?
My fixed bridge:

Trem:

 

[Ancient Alien]

Now here's my next question:

My Kahler bridge is the Hybrid fixed bridge(no whammy bar action) Can I install a Kahler hybrid trem without any routing of the body? Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the Kahler trem just move within the context of the bridge itself, therefore not pushing down "into" the body like a Floyd would?

No
A Kahler needs a small route underneath it. It's about 1/2 inch deep, so you would have to take a chunk out of the guitar.

 

[glassjaw7]

Now here's my next question:

My Kahler bridge is the Hybrid fixed bridge(no whammy bar action) Can I install a Kahler hybrid trem without any routing of the body? Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the Kahler trem just move within the context of the bridge itself, therefore not pushing down "into" the body like a Floyd would?

No
A Kahler needs a small route underneath it. It's about 1/2 inch deep, so you would have to take a chunk out of the guitar.

I'll probably just go with the locking tuners and leave the bridge as is. Don't want to compromise any tone. Thanks for your help.

 

[Variable]

Or locking tuners and some Big Bends Nut Sauce

+1

This is all I need for tuning stability on my Dual Fulcrum G&L Legacy. The only problem you may have is the low E going sharp after a dive, but you can fix this with proper string stretching and by finishing the tuning of the E by going sharp-to-flat instead of flat-to-sharp.

 

[Marshall Law]

Behind the nut locks don't work as well as at the nut ones because the strings usually bind up at the nut. The floyd nut will give you the best stability, otherwise you might as well get locking tuners or just take that one off.

+1

 

[Alexramen]

Hello. So I joined this forum and found this super old thread to come here and see if you (glassjaw7) still have the rampage because I’m currently looking for the Allen screw for the guitar tech string locks. I know a FR nut would be better but I’m just trying to get the guitar to a playable status with not having to put too much more money into it. So I was wondering, if you even still have the guitar after 12 years, if you can tell me the screw dimensions so I can try to source the screws????? Shot it the dark but here goes nothing ?‍