True Bypass

hthomas

hthomas

New member
Well in my other thread the topic arose! im now trying to figure out which pedals are true bypass and which are not.

the pedals I have are in my sig.

is true hardwire bypass the same thing?
 
the Carbon Copy is a good true bypass.


the rest of them probably not? there's a chance the EVH has a good bypass?


atleast one of the stock Dunlop wahs has true bypass, but not sure which?
 
I was always told that mxr and dunlop were pedals that didnt cause many problems with tone loss. I no wahs do though.
 
If they can pass a signal when they have no power then they are true-bypass. Take the batteries and or power cables out.
 
well, the MXR phase and flange are must haves IMHO! so what are you gonna do.


i'd say your board is just fine as is. maybe mod the wah?


if you really wanted to get serious about the bypass, you could mod atleast a few of them.


go Keeley on the Wah, Analogman mods the handwired P90. don't know if anybody does the flanger.

when i mentioned EVH in my earlier post, i screwed up and thought you had the EVH Phase. 99% sure the EVH Flanger isn't True bypass, it sure drops the volume when using it.
 
I did say youshould have a buffer at the beggining and at the end but DO NOT arrange your pedals to fit what I said. :p sorry if that was a bit confusing, in an ideal world, you'd have buffers at either end and bypass in the middle, but really, shouldn't be worried about, unless you're into modding, in which case, true bypass mod all the pedals you're going to put in the middle, Wahs are better true bypassed anyway, as are most pedals, but particulary Wahs, in my experience anyway. My Crybaby is a dickhead.

Modding pedals to true bypass is pretty straightforward.
 
Google "dunlop mxr true bypass blog".

There is a blog entry from Dunlop detailing which ones are buffered, true bypass, hardwire bypass, and true hardwire bypass.

Dunlops newest pedals use a true bypass that uses a dpdt switch. Referred to as millennium bypass. It's 100% legit true bypass.

Only a few mxr pedals have this.
 
Jack Napalm":3f68ke5e said:
If they can pass a signal when they have no power then they are true-bypass. Take the batteries and or power cables out.
Click to expand...
that is not necessarily true, MXR flangers will do that and their not true bypass
 
so it seems out of all my pedals the wah and the mxr evh flange are the problems. I can mod the wah. no problem.

should I test the flanger. have it the only pedal connected and see if it ruins my sound?
 
Marshall Law":292fl3e7 said:
Jack Napalm":292fl3e7 said:
If they can pass a signal when they have no power then they are true-bypass. Take the batteries and or power cables out.
Click to expand...
that is not necessarily true, MXR flangers will do that and their not true bypass
Click to expand...

Interesting. I was always led to believe that.
 
Read here: http://www.jimdunlop.com/blog/?p=384

There's so many dumb nomenclatures now to describe bypasses.

"True Bypass" with an LED, in the most traditional sense of the word, is achieved using a 9 lug, Triple Pole Double Throw Switch. Usually the blue bodied 3PDT switch, or a black fulltone 3PDT switch.

Dunlop/MXR's term "True Hardwire Bypass" is the equivalent of the industry standard "True Bypass", but achieves it using a DPDT swich, along with special circuitry for the LED. Examples are Bass Octave Deluxe, CAE wah, etc.

Dunlop/MXR's term "Hardwire Bypass" is what's used for Crybabys, Phase 90s, etc, etc. These types of pedals will are NOT true bypass and they DO suck tone.

Digitech Hardwire pedals actually ARE true bypass - they achieve this by using a relay.
 
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