Tube testing - Do Current Numbers Matter? Are there Differences in Sound?

[Cap217]

I recently bought a lot of tube to work on some amps and have backups. but I am now confused on matched sets and if the testing translates to a "sound" or outcome.

Example:

All EL34 for this and apex tested...

I have a set of EH that test 42 current and 6900
Mullard 28 current and 5840
Tung Sol 23 current and 6460


Questions:

1. will different brands test differently? Is an EH 42 the same as a Mullared 28?
2. Will a 42 current sound differently than a 23?
3. Does current matter?
4. does transcond matter?
5. It seems that the 42 is high but is it really and is there more to this I should be looking at?
6. These are going in a 84 JCM 800, is one better than the other based on numbers? Will one set break up earlier than others?

Also, how does mesa do this on 6l6 and never needing biased? Are all of their 6l6 branded tubes the same range and thats all they sell? If so, when you put in a new set of 6l6, non mesa, what do you need to be aware of?

 

[Racerxrated]

I have a cheaper super old tube tester; but it just tests for shorts/leaks...basically to tell me if the tube is still good or not when I buy them. So I can't answer specifically although I would think that one brands current number may be different than the same number in a different brand. So I don't know that I'd compare between brands at least with those numbers.
When it comes to Mesa they all run their tube bias/power amps fairly cold; so when you buy a set from them they are color coded and the hottest set will still fall in a safe place in their circuit. If you put in a non Mesa set I'd tell you that you should have some way of measuring how hot/cold those tubes are i.e. a bias tester so that when you install the tube, and take the amp off standby you can immediately see where the ma is (current) which will tell you if it's safe to use those tubes. My rule of thumb is; if they are non Mesa then they better test at <40ma on the hottest setting on my Triple for example (Bold, Diode) for me to feel safe installing them.
There are guys here who have super nice tube testers that know more than I; hopefully they can chime in with better info.