steve_k
New member
I am even confused now.... 
srinivassa
New member
I don't know. It doesn't sound like it could have been a bad tube or insert shorting. Otherwise it wouldn't have played at all. It doesn't seem like a fuse because most fuses just blow, and then nothing works until you replace them. I'm stumped. At least I said I wasn't the expert. 
PsychoholicSlag
New member
steve_k":3jyhn9xj said:I am even confused now....
King Crimson
Banned
Active member
Shatter_The_Silence
Member
well.. has it done it again or was it a one time thing? was there any funny popping or anything along those lines? its it possible that the v1 tube wasnt seated properly and the spring in the tube cover pushed it down after it got warm and expanded a bit, thus making it contact and work by the time you turned it back on?
I mean all the speculation is cool and fun and all, but if it did it one and hasnt done it since. i dont think i would worry about it. If it was consistently screwing up that would be different.
I mean all the speculation is cool and fun and all, but if it did it one and hasnt done it since. i dont think i would worry about it. If it was consistently screwing up that would be different.
PsychoholicSlag
New member
We'll know by Tuesday hopefully, I'm going to the practice room tonight and grab the cab and test it at my house. I'm switching the preamp tubes around and see what happens.
Right now
V1: Penta Lab
V2: Tung Sol (before the switch)
V3: JJ
V4: GT12AX7M
Thinking about
V1: Penta
V2: Penta
V3: JJ or SovtekWC
V4: GT12AX7M
I'll play it for a few, throw it on standby, flip it back and play some more. I pray everything works out, like I said, when I flipped it back on after the incident it was working fine so I shouldn't see why not (
). Hopefully I can get the Ruby's in this week as well.
Right now
V1: Penta Lab
V2: Tung Sol (before the switch)
V3: JJ
V4: GT12AX7M
Thinking about
V1: Penta
V2: Penta
V3: JJ or SovtekWC
V4: GT12AX7M
I'll play it for a few, throw it on standby, flip it back and play some more. I pray everything works out, like I said, when I flipped it back on after the incident it was working fine so I shouldn't see why not (
). Hopefully I can get the Ruby's in this week as well.
RoidRage
New member
steve_k":3jcfrixj said:PsychoholicSlag":3jcfrixj said:Oh I love you guys.
I'm glad I'm a part of this forum.
So with the V1 debate, since this is a channel switcher, wouldn't the V2 be the "main" tube in a sense since the V1 is just dedicated to the cleen channel?
V1 is the input tube and affects all channels.
Yah Steve,
But he listed V1 for Clean Channel Only...
glpg80
Well-known member
until you order a new batch and check each tube socket with a new tube you are just playing musical chairs "swapping tubes around" - unless i have mistaken, you need to be sure you got the defective tube removed if it even exists (have you used a known working preamp tube and checked each individual tube one by one?) and only until you have successfully evaluated the tubes are working properly can you move onto other areas of the amplifier if it is still occurring.
you do not replace fuses unless a fuse is blown. that is wasted money, and if a fuse is blown do not replace it with a new one and consider the amplifier fixed. thats idiot logic. there is a reason it is shorting open.
back to the OP - check them one by one. you do not have to let your amplifier cool down between changing them, you do need to shut the amplifier completely down before changing them out (which you have been doing). never hot-swap vacuum tubes in a live amplifier, the inrush current from going to B+ from 0V can cause premature failure and is not good for the sockets as well.
you do not replace fuses unless a fuse is blown. that is wasted money, and if a fuse is blown do not replace it with a new one and consider the amplifier fixed. thats idiot logic. there is a reason it is shorting open.
back to the OP - check them one by one. you do not have to let your amplifier cool down between changing them, you do need to shut the amplifier completely down before changing them out (which you have been doing). never hot-swap vacuum tubes in a live amplifier, the inrush current from going to B+ from 0V can cause premature failure and is not good for the sockets as well.
PsychoholicSlag
New member
I checked the fuses and they were good, I'm going to the practice room in a few and check out the amp. I'm just swapping the V2 for the known good tube, that was the only tube that was swapped before the incident. But I'm also taking about 5 pre's with me that I know are good just in case.
PsychoholicSlag
New member
So I played it for and hour+ and everything went great (knock on wood). Even so, I swapped around some tubes and found a better combination I like. The Tung-Sol seems a little on the brittle side so I threw in a Penta C9 and I'm liking it so far. So ... guess it was the LPS ... 
. I'm still going to put some new power's in anyway cause it's been about a year and I can be hard on them. The amp has a 2nd master that I use for leads so it can be at 5 then jump to 7 at times. Not positive if that would wear them out faster but I'd assume so.
. I'm still going to put some new power's in anyway cause it's been about a year and I can be hard on them. The amp has a 2nd master that I use for leads so it can be at 5 then jump to 7 at times. Not positive if that would wear them out faster but I'd assume so.
RoidRage
New member
PsychoholicSlag":1i7k3c1d said:
That's another reason why I suggested starting at replacing V2
RR
F
FIREBALL
New member
not true ,the amp will only not work if the main fuse blows....there is another fuse that can go out if your power amp tube is shot....the amp would still come onsrinivassa":2lqw4ggz said:I don't know. It doesn't sound like it could have been a bad tube or insert shorting. Otherwise it wouldn't have played at all. It doesn't seem like a fuse because most fuses just blow, and then nothing works until you replace them. I'm stumped. At least I said I wasn't the expert.