Unfinished neck??

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reverymike

reverymike

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I have a Frankie replica that has a totally unfinished maple neck on it. The action seems to drift and can be very different day to day. The guitar doesn't get played much at all (spends most of its time in a display case), but I'd like for it to be able to be played now and then.

Can unfinished necks be improved by having them sprayed with a little nitro? I have a great luthier here in town that could put a finish on it. I don't want to bother with it if it's not going to improve the playability of the guitar though.
 
If you want to maintain the feel of an unfinished neck, I would put a few coats of tru-oil or tung oil on it but you could easily shoot some nitro on it too. I don't think your issues are related to the neck being unfinished. I have two guitars with necks that are completly unfinished and they are extremely stable...
 
Humidity can cause plenty of movement on a raw neck. A couple coats of Tru Oil will maintain the raw feel, but "seal" the wood to make more stable.
 
Your issues ARE most likely because its unfinished. I have some unfinished necks that barely move and some that do...it all depends on the piece of wood. Leaving them raw will tend to make things worse for a neck that may already have a propensity to move a bit.
Tung oil/Tru oil/danish oil/etc will all help with your problem while retaining a non-tacky feel.
 
So, I can just buy some Tung Oil and rub it into the neck with an old tshirt? Do I need to take any precautions, or is it that simple?
 
I'd skip the nitro and put a few coats of tru-oil or danish oil on it, then it will be sealed and still feel unfinished.
 
I favor tru-oil over straight Tung oil when I treat one of my necks, but I also try to adjust it first, due to prefering a truly unfinished and raw neck. But as others have said, sometimes you just get one that fluctuates with the humidity. I also try to keep mine in a stable environment when they are not being used or taken anywhere. A mid-grade hygrometer can be your best bet, if trying to level out the humidity. And then just use the old standard tricks for more /less humidity.
 
reverymike":1jrpd8p8 said:
So, I can just buy some Tung Oil and rub it into the neck with an old tshirt? Do I need to take any precautions, or is it that simple?

Tung oil you wipe on, and wipe off (with clean rag). Try one or two coats to start. Keep in mind tung oil will stay tacky for a while, curing time is at least a week. It goes on lighter than tru-oil, however.

Tru-oil cures much faster (you can buy it anywhere where guns are sold), about one or two days. Charvel CS employee posted on the Charvel forum the best way to put tru-oil on: one coat, wipe on, and wipe off. Second coat repeat 20 minutes later. You can go with more coats, but it starts to give you that "finished" feel.
 
Tru Oil is gunstock oil, and a better finish I think. The first coat will soak right in and dry in under and hour. Scuff it with steel wool, and then apply another coat.

AGE-BC-StkFinish.jpg
 
I love my tru-oil finished neck. It feels raw, and was easy to put on...
 
I have an Ibanez RG770DX from 1991--it has an unfinished neck. I wipe it down after every play and use a bit of orange oil--never had a problem & plays like the day I bought it (better, actually...)
 
Don't know if finishing or oil will help. I have a ebmm axis with the tru oil neck. That thing is so all over the place. If the a/c kicks on it will go out of tune. If we have the windows open and it rains, the next day the guitar will be unplayable. Strings laying on the frets. Normally has slightly high action. Seems like it twists slightly also. I think its just a bad piece of wood. I have 4 other guitars with unfinished or oiled necks and no problem with any of them. :dunno: I don't know, love that guitar but it bugs the hell out of me.
 
I guess I will try the Tru Oil and if that doesn't help it, then I can always buy a replacement neck.
 
If you go the replacement route and want to keep with raw wood, I've found that quartersawn, straight grained maple seems to be more stable than figured maples and flatsawn necks. For something a bit more exotic, solid rosewood, pau ferro, and a few other woods can remain unfinished with little worry of warpage.
 
reverymike":1diyrtay said:
I guess I will try the Tru Oil and if that doesn't help it, then I can always buy a replacement neck.

If you go to the Music Man web site, they have a how-to for treating their unfinished necks with the Birchwood Casey system. Worked wonderfully for my EBMM when I had it. Same process should apply to your neck too.
 
rupe":1w3uxldk said:
Your issues ARE most likely because its unfinished. I have some unfinished necks that barely move and some that do...it all depends on the piece of wood. Leaving them raw will tend to make things worse for a neck that may already have a propensity to move a bit.
Tung oil/Tru oil/danish oil/etc will all help with your problem while retaining a non-tacky feel.
This.

Display case?????!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!!?!?!?!

ugh.......................
 
rupe":22v305p5 said:
If you go the replacement route and want to keep with raw wood, I've found that quartersawn, straight grained maple seems to be more stable than figured maples and flatsawn necks. For something a bit more exotic, solid rosewood, pau ferro, and a few other woods can remain unfinished with little worry of warpage.

This again and PLAY the guitar and leave da funk on there, it will seal the poars and help with the wood shifting.

Not all wood is created equal, I have an un-finished wizard neck on a 565 that defies logic and is rock solid while over wizards move everywhere and twist.
 
reverymike":39r2c9mt said:
I guess I will try the Tru Oil and if that doesn't help it, then I can always buy a replacement neck.

You dont want to play on an unfinished neck, its the worst thing you can do...

There is a misconception, Unfinished necks do not exist on "finished instruments" unless the factory or the builder are totally out of their freeking mind , in fact they apply a very thin sealer which leaves the wood raw to the feel, in french we call this product an "anti tache" which is an "apply wipe off" type of product... similar to this: http://www.voussert.fr/Structure/produit.aspx?Id=15854

translation for what concerns us:
Waterproofing special wood. Waterproofing special wood goes deep inside the wood. protects from marks (water, oils, ). Protects the wood on the long run. Fence against water and oil. Invisible. Does not leave anything feeling of a finish on the surface. Does not change it's aspect, neither the structure of the wood. Leaves the wood breath.

Having a neck which looks and feels unfinished does not mean that there is not a finish on it...

A neck requires a finish (I use Tru-Oil with great succes on my instruments + a special wax after that I've applied the Tru-Oil) and an oil finished instrument requires ongoing attention to its condition, simple as that...

You want to control the athmosphere in which you are leaving your instrument...


Check this out, here is some "guitar care" information that I send out to my customers which you may find interesting to read.... :thumbsup:

How to take care and protect your guitar against Temperature and Humidity?
(This applies to every wooden musical instrument)

Wood is a porous, organic material and is affected dimensionally by changes in the amounts of moisture it contains. All
fine stringed instruments made from solid wood are, without a doubt, more susceptible to the effects of changes in
humidity than are laminated wood instruments and mass production instruments. These are heavily sealed by many
coats of hard lacquer. Natural wood requires ongoing attention to its condition.

The moisture content of wood is determined by the relative humidity and temperature of the surrounding atmosphere.
Relative humidity is expressed as a percentage of air’s capability to hold moisture. For example, 30% relative humidity
means that the air is holding 30% of the moisture it could possibly hold at a given temperature. The greatest threats to
a fine wood guitar are extremes and rapid changes in temperature and humidity.

High humidity can cause softening of the glues used in the construction of the instrument. As wood absorbs moisture
from the air, this can cause the body and neck to twist, expand and rise. Conversely, if you live or travel with your
guitar to a drier climate (either hot or cold), there is another danger. In areas of low humidity, the evaporation of
moisture from the wood can cause shrinkage and cracking, no matter how long or carefully the wood has previously
been aged.

The collective experience of all of the major guitar manufacturers today has demonstrated that the ideal temperature to
preserve the integrity of solid wood guitars is room temperature, which is about 20.5º C (70º F ). The ideal relative
humidity is about 40% to 50%. In the winter, the forced air systems used to heat most homes can drive temperatures up
and humidity levels dangerously low for guitars. A good measure of protection against drying out your guitar is to use a
room humidifier http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Humidifier. Use a dehumidifier http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dehumidifier if the room contains too much moisture. In either case, you need to control the
ambient atmosphere of your room. At least once a week, use some special oil (Hufschmid Guitars brand of choice)
http://www.estalin.ch/en/pr_entretien_bois.php to clean and maintain the fingerboard and body, which will keep them from drying out and will nourish the
wood.

When the instrument is not in use, I recommend that you keep it in its case. If you are not using a room humidifier,
check the relative humidity periodically and, when needed, use one of the small guitar humidifiers that are available
from many instrument dealers. Do not leave the guitar for long periods near a heating vent, radiator or in direct sunlight
close to a window. Never leave your guitar in a car or in the trunk of a car and do not expose it to excessive heat or cold.
Philharmonic Orchestras, violinists, classical guitarists and all musical instruments made of wood are taken on tour. It is
always up to the musician to take individual care of them. This applies to all musical instruments (except for those made
in metal). One takes care of a car by checking the tyres and having it serviced.

Taking care of wood is a fraction of the effort and cost. There are humidifiers and dehumidifiers available everywhere.
Products to oil wood are available everywhere too, as most people have furniture made of wood.

The above text is based upon that of the 'Protection from Temperature and Humidity' section of the 'Benedetto Guitar
Owner's Manual'. It is quoted here with gracious permission of Bob Benedetto.

Website: http://www.benedettoguitars.com
 
So, I guess the question is. . .is it 'too late' or can I put the Tru Oil on it, and see some imporvement?
 
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