Where can I buy metal 4x12 handles? thanx...

[Moshaholic]

Vibroworlds online ordering thing is not working until july 30th somthing crazy like that and they dont tell you until you try and pay for the items in your cart...

I searched around the web but came up short and do not know anywhere else except vibroworld to get metal replacment handles for a Marshall cab... I have bought in the past from them and they sell them for pretty cheap... like $9.98ea

I want to ditch the plastic ones...

Thanks in advance.

G.

 

[OldSkoolNJ]

http://www.tubesandmore.com/

 

[MississippiMetal]

AES FTMFW. Those guys have great stuff and are super friendly. They are my go-to source for my PVC hookup wire and Cap cans.

Also check out Amplifiedparts.com

While you're there, watch their videos and lawl at Curt Prange's voice.

 

[Onzabar]

http://www.scumbackspeakers.com/handles.html

 

[Moshaholic]

AES FTMFW. Those guys have great stuff and are super friendly. They are my go-to source for my PVC hookup wire and Cap cans.


Also check out Amplifiedparts.com

While you're there, watch their videos and lawl at Curt Prange's voice.

do you have a kink for AES I goggled it and came up with some ham radio place?

thanks!

G.

 

[OldSkoolNJ]

AES FTMFW. Those guys have great stuff and are super friendly. They are my go-to source for my PVC hookup wire and Cap cans.


Also check out Amplifiedparts.com

While you're there, watch their videos and lawl at Curt Prange's voice.

do you have a kink for AES I goggled it and came up with some ham radio place?

thanks!

G.

It is the link I already gave you.. Antique Electronic Supply..

 

[Scumback Speakers]

Vibroworlds online ordering thing is not working until july 30th somthing crazy like that and they dont tell you until you try and pay for the items in your cart...

I searched around the web but came up short and do not know anywhere else except vibroworld to get metal replacment handles for a Marshall cab... I have bought in the past from them and they sell them for pretty cheap... like $9.98ea

I want to ditch the plastic ones...

Thanks in advance.

G.

I've got them but they're nice ones, and more money. But they're also a direct bolt in replacement for your plastic ones, chrome handle, old style textured baked on finish, and solid. But they're also $60 per pair. Hell, the individual handles cost me more than what you're paying retail for the other ones.

But they rule.

http://www.scumbackspeakers.com/handles.html

 

[LP Freak]

Splawn sell them.

 

[Scumback Speakers]

It is the link I already gave you.. Antique Electronic Supply..

Unless you're handy with a jigsaw, don't get the Marshall handwired handles, or the P-H308 handles. You have to cut out the cab side for the handle to fit, drill all new screw holes, too, since they're not the same size.

In fact I made this mistake and have a pair of the those ugly P-H308 handles I found today! LOL

 

[Ayrton]

Don't even bother with any other handles unless you like cutting up your cab.

Trust me when I tell you to get Jim's and be done.

I have used the others, and will never go through all that again. Jim's are the real deal, and not only drop right in, but are made from nicer material.

 

[OldSkoolNJ]

It is the link I already gave you.. Antique Electronic Supply..

Unless you're handy with a jigsaw

I know I am

 

[Ventura]

http://www.tubesandmore.com/

+1

V.

 

[Scumback Speakers]

I know I am

Ok, then go for it! I wasn't handy when I got mine, and boy was I pissed that I had to dowel up some of the previous mounting holes since some of them overlap in the corners. So get some dowel rod and glue, you'll need it.

Oh, one more thing I forgot, you need to take out the top two speakers, so you can vacuum up the sawdust, chips of wood and all that shredded tolex. You only need to cut about 3/16" in two directions. I suggest you cut towards the back of the cab, and down. If you have a slant you HAVE to cut back or you'll drill into the baffle board. I'd also suggest you get 10/32 machine screws 3/4" long and 10/32 T-nuts to fasten the new handles.

Good luck!

 

[OldSkoolNJ]

I know I am

Ok, then go for it! I wasn't handy when I got mine, and boy was I pissed that I had to dowel up some of the previous mounting holes since some of them overlap in the corners. So get some dowel rod and glue, you'll need it.

Good luck!

Maybe other people arent as sloppy as you are with a jigsaw..

 

[Scumback Speakers]

Maybe other people arent as sloppy as you are with a jigsaw..

Heh heh, it wasn't the jigsaw that was the tough part. It was fixing all the previous holes in the wood from two different mounting bolt layouts, and making them secure enough to be partially drilled into again. That takes a day to let the dowel rod and glue dry properly, then redrilling the following day.

It's not all about the jigsaw. If you've done this plastic handle to generic handle conversion, you know what I'm talking about.

I'm just trying to help the OP out, not fence with you, OK?

 

[OldSkoolNJ]

Maybe other people arent as sloppy as you are with a jigsaw..

Oh, well excuse me. I'll stop trying to help then. Sorry!

It ok man we're all trying to help so dont stop, The scare tactic's was funny..

 

[Scumback Speakers]

It's not a scare tactic, it's reality. All of those handles that are cheap are sized wrong to fit the standard Marshall handle cutout size. They all need to be retrofitted/cut/etc. I've bought them from Mojo, CE, Tubesandmore, Marshallparts, PartsisParts and Orange County Speaker Repair. The all need some cutting, and doweling. Part of restoring 30-40 old cabinets taught me, the hard way.

Ask Ayrton, he's done all those handle goofs with his cab restores, too. It's a hell of a lot easier to just bolt 'em in. Even the Marshall handles for the Handwired are different than their plastic handles. When I got mine I was pissed that they didn't just fit. When I found out I had to cut the cab, redrill all the mounting holes (8 not just 6), and unload the cab I was pissed.

It's no big deal if you're doing a whole restoration, the cab is apart already. But I think the OP just wants to replace his cracked handles, mine are as easy as they get.

But enough of that, it's cocktail time! I am outta here!

 

[MississippiMetal]

A bit OT, but Mosh I'm glad your band has a new singer. The old one has zero stage presence. It's like he had no idea what to do when he was standing around waiting to scream again.

 

[OldSkoolNJ]

It's not a scare tactic, it's reality. All of those handles that are cheap are sized wrong to fit the standard Marshall handle cutout size. They all need to be retrofitted/cut/etc. I've bought them from Mojo, CE, Tubesandmore, Marshallparts, PartsisParts and Orange County Speaker Repair. The all need some cutting, and doweling. Part of restoring 30-40 old cabinets taught me, the hard way.

Ask Ayrton, he's done all those handle goofs with his cab restores, too. It's a hell of a lot easier to just bolt 'em in. Even the Marshall handles for the Handwired are different than their plastic handles. When I got mine I was pissed that they didn't just fit. When I found out I had to cut the cab, redrill all the mounting holes (8 not just 6), and unload the cab I was pissed.

It's no big deal if you're doing a whole restoration, the cab is apart already. But I think the OP just wants to replace his cracked handles, mine are as easy as they get.

But enough of that, it's cocktail time! I am outta here!

Well it is premature to even know because he didnt say if he has done it before or not, but he did say he has dealt with that place before.. And judging by the handles they have they are the same as Antique Electric's..


According to your directions yours aren't direct replacement and just bolt right in either..
Your Directions state..
All you'll need to do is drill out your existing handle's rivets with a 1/4" drill, and right through the wood of the cab, so no new holes are going into your cab to affect the structural stability, you'll just drill through the rivet hole started at the Marshall factory.
Then you'll use a pair of pliers to press in 10/32 T-nuts in the holes you just drilled the rivets out of from the inside of the cab. Since the old handle will be out, you don't have to take off your back panel at all, since there's a handle hole there already with plenty of room to work with. Channel locks or a hammer will also work to fit in the T-nuts.
Then place the handle over your cab's new handle holes, and screw in the 10/32 machine screws with a drill or Phillips screwdriver.

No offense man but for $60 + another $5 for hardware " that can be bought for cheaper" they should mount right in without any hassle..
Just so you know I corrected the spelling for Phillips because it is mis-spelled on your site so you may want to fix that..

 

[Ayrton]

No offense man but for $60 + another $5 for hardware " that can be bought for cheaper" they should mount right in without any hassle..

Jim's handles do drop right in, but you do have to remove the old POS rivets.

If you think that is hassle, just wait until you try and fit the other ones.