Which wear parts lead to OFR tuning stability issues?

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Shreddy Mercury

Shreddy Mercury

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I've got a Warmoth I've had for years I got for a steal from Guitar Centers used department years ago when I worked there that has so many top of the line parts and a style and playability that I love, but for being a legit OFR, it has some tuning stability issues. I can tune the thing to perfect tuning, intonated great and perfect action and the next day it needs retuned, and not just a small twist of the fine tuners, I mean unlocking the nut and doing it all over pretty much. I've got a Gotoh Floyd partscaster with strings probably 9 or 10 months old, if not older, and all I have to do is do a little fine tuning and I'm golden. Would worn out studs cause something like this, or maybe a worn knife edge? I don't mind hotrodding it with some slick stainless or titanium parts to customize and upgrade it, but is it really even possible to resurrect the main plate if the knife edges are worn?
 
Check your springs. They can get stretched and played out.

Make sure the trem is floating parallel to the guitar body.

Make sure the mounting studs have not loosened and do not have play in them.

Make sure your saddles are not loose.

Make sure your nut is secure.

Check the trem claw and verify that it is securely attached.

Check the nut clamps for wear.

Check the knife edge on the baseplate for wear/rust/debris/pitting.

Make sure the sustain block and trem arm nut are not touching the trem cavity.

Make sure that your tuning machines are secure.

With all of that said, make sure that you do a really good stretch on new strings. I stretch until the strings only jave minor detuning when stretched.
 
Check to make sure the screws that bond the locking nut to the neck are tight (these will either be accessed from the back of the neck or underneath the locking nut pads); I've run across this issue before and it seems to be one of the last places people check in my experience.

If one (or both) of those are loose it'll never stay in tune properly
 
Check to make sure the screws that bond the locking nut to the neck are tight (these will either be accessed from the back of the neck or underneath the locking nut pads); I've run across this issue before and it seems to be one of the last places people check in my experience.

If one (or both) of those are loose it'll never stay in tune properly
This. The lock nut is the spot that your strings will slip. Buy new screws and lock pads. Maybe new string blocks too? Those will crack and/or develop a wear line. You can buy a set of Titanium string blocks for 35$ last I looked. They add a bit of clarity too.
 
I got the guitar home today (it's been at my parent's for months) and noticed I did put stainless screws that hold the saddle in place, the ones that go in the back of it, and saddle blocks (I don't think I got titanium on those) but haven't done anything else. Even though it's been months since I've played it, the old strings held tune once I got them adjusted, but it probably wouldn't hurt to just go ahead and buy an all new nut, blocks, and screws for the top end of the guitar and some posts while I'm at it....assuming the knife edges aren't all chewed up when I take the bridge off. Maybe even a new set of springs for the back and just do it all up nice and shiny.
 
Oh hell, I just looked at the guitar and turns out I put a big brass sustain block, brass claw/screws and a trem stopper in it too lol I forgot I had done all this work on it. That's probably why it stayed in tune much better today than it has in the past lol
 
Before buying and replacing parts just go over things to make sure there is not a mechanical problem.
 
Words like "sitting for months", and "old strings" stick out like a sore thumb.. I'd maybe start there...
This has been happening forever, even with fresh strings, that's just how it sits currently.
 
Bake sure the locking nut is tightly secured to the neck. Most else is user setup.
 
Here's a way to start.
Block the trem so it doesn't float. Tune it up.
See if it goes out of tune if you just push the bar down a couple of times.
If it goes out of tune,chances are its the nut area.
This is assuming you have checked the posts and knife edges of the trem and dont see any wear.
If all else fails replace the user interface.
 
Also regarding the talk of titanium and stainless parts, the liklihood of those doing anything for tuning stability is questionable at best.

I did the whole Floyd upgrade path. At this point I have two Jacksons with all titanium Floyd bridges on them.

The titanium parts don’t corrode. They are also more durable. But the won’t do jack didley squat for tuning stability or tone.

I have plotted the frequency response on both of my Jacksons with OFRs and Titanium Floyds. Just swapped out the bridges and analyzed the result. The change was miniscule.

The most likely reason for tuning instability is poorly stretched strings. After that something mechanical on the guitar. Then wear on parts.

It is unlikely that just replacing parts with stainless or titanium parts is going to solve tuning problems… unless you get lucky and happen to replace a worn part.
 
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