vultures
Well-known member
I've been getting a ton of PMs on how I built my clones and where to get the parts and other random stuff. I've decided to make this massive post to help folks find their tone quest while quenching their DIY thirst.
Rullywow Integrated Preamp Build
This build is specifically for a direct clone of the Integrated Preamp. This is THE pedal the guys of Messhugah have used and what Fortin based the 33 pedal from. The only difference in this pedal is there are 3 Control Knobs instead of 1. You can build this one to have more versatility and dial in the tone to YOUR taste. You ask, How do I make this only one knob? Use small trimmer potentiometers mounted directly to the board, adjust to taste, close up the pedal and forget they exist. Wiring a fixed resistor over a PCB made for a Potentiometer is complicated at best. OR SCROLL DOWN FURTHER TO THE PEDALPCB BUILD
Where do I get the PCBs?
https://www.rullywow.com/product/chuggapre/
https://www.rullywow.com/product/3pdtv3-1a/
Where do I get the Build Docs?
Chugga Pre: https://www.rullywow.com/wp-content/upl ... e-v1.0.pdf
3PDT: https://www.rullywow.com/wp-content/upl ... ematic.pdf
Where do I get the parts?
Pedal PCB Fortin 33 Build
This build is specifically closer to the Fortin 33. This is in every way still the Integrated Preamp, but with the guess work of the Bass/Treble potentiometers out of the way. The design of this build is really neato, but this is a really intensive build compared to the Rullywow board. Be sure to double check where you're putting resistors/diodes in this build.
Where do I get the PCBs?
https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/triangulum/
https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/3pdt/
Where do I get the Build Docs?
Triangulum: https://www.pedalpcb.com/docs/PedalPCB-Triangulum.pdf
3PDT: https://www.pedalpcb.com/wp-content/upl ... 1/3PDT.png
Where do I get the parts?
Like I said above, read the build documents. Ensure you order ALL the parts you need, double check I didn't forget one. It's a real pain in the ass ordering again for a $0.25 part.
Tools?
If you've made it this far, the following is my latest Fortin 33 / TC Electronics Integrated Preamp Build. This is in a Pedal PCB Triangulum build in a 1590B enclosure. I used insulated stereo jacks (when I probably shouldn't have), which made this an extremely tight fit. This is why I'd suggest a 125B for someone doing this casually.
- Will you build me a Integrated Preamp/33?
No. Not unless you want to pay $100-150 for my time. Each build, while being fun, takes a lot of time and care to make. I'm too much of a perfectionist and it takes me a while to build my own pedals. I encourage you to learn pedal building and electronic basics and try your hand at it.
- You really gonna rip off my boy Mikey like that?
This pedal itself is a copy. I have no hard feelings or ill intent towards Fortin. They brought an obscure pedal to the forefront of the modern scene. This is a fun DIY/Hobby project, I'm just giving folks the option to build it themselves considering they are not available to buy directly from Fortin anymore and the used market is very pricey. I have only built these pedals for myself and close friends.
- What kind of resistors do I choose?
1/4w Metal Film Resistors with 1% Tolerance. They are the standard for pedal building. There is no reason to use 1/8w Resistors unless you really need to save space on bread/vero/perf boards. Most modern PCBs leave plenty of space. Why not Carbon Comp? Old, noisey and way too much variance with tolerances. Why not Carbon Film? 5% Tolerance isn't worth it. Slight tolerances like that can alter the "tone" of the pedal.
- What kind of Capacitor do I choose?
Polarity: Look at the schematics. Capacitors have 2 different symbols denoting if they need polarity or not. Don't know how to read schematics? (You should consider learning, but..) Polarized Capacitors: --+|(-- . Non-Polarized Capacitors: --||-- . Or look at the actual PCB and it'll show a square solder patch with a + next to it. If your Capacitor needs polarity you need an Electrolytic Capacitor. If not use Film or Ceramic.
Voltage: Use capacitors rated 18v or above. This specific pedal has a charge pump that can ouput up to 12v (or at least that's what the datasheet says). I, personally, would use 25v-35v+ to be safe. Careful not to over do it with huge voltage Capacitors, they will be physically larger in size and will not fit your PCB
Box vs. Mylar film? Boxes look cool as fuck, just fucking use them so you don't have a turd looking pedal.
- Do I really need to buy the 3PDT Breakout board?
Do you know true bypass wiring on a 3PDT switch without googling it? If you do, skip this. If you don't, this makes it 100x easier for you. No guess work.
- Where does [this component] go on the board?
READ THE BUILD DOCUMENTS. Read them thoroughly and even print them out if you need to when you're building. Reading the instructions and looking over the schematics can make or break your build. Don't be lazy, I'm doing everything else for you.
- Where should I order _____ from?
I've condensed these builds to ONE website for parts. Yes there are nicer enclosure options elsewhere, yes there are dope switches on BLMS, yes better LED housings are on other sites. This is the easiest way to build these. If you want suggestions for anything else, just post in this thread and ask.
Rullywow Integrated Preamp Build
This build is specifically for a direct clone of the Integrated Preamp. This is THE pedal the guys of Messhugah have used and what Fortin based the 33 pedal from. The only difference in this pedal is there are 3 Control Knobs instead of 1. You can build this one to have more versatility and dial in the tone to YOUR taste. You ask, How do I make this only one knob? Use small trimmer potentiometers mounted directly to the board, adjust to taste, close up the pedal and forget they exist. Wiring a fixed resistor over a PCB made for a Potentiometer is complicated at best. OR SCROLL DOWN FURTHER TO THE PEDALPCB BUILD
Where do I get the PCBs?
https://www.rullywow.com/product/chuggapre/
https://www.rullywow.com/product/3pdtv3-1a/
Where do I get the Build Docs?
Chugga Pre: https://www.rullywow.com/wp-content/upl ... e-v1.0.pdf
3PDT: https://www.rullywow.com/wp-content/upl ... ematic.pdf
Where do I get the parts?
Film Capacitors:
x2 47nF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html
x1 4.7nF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html
x1 22nF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html
x1 220nF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html
Ceramic Capacitors:
x1 100PF
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/100pf- ... citor.html
Electrolytic Capacitors
x2 4.7uF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... x11mm.html
x1 1uF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... x11mm.html
x4 10uF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... x11mm.html
Resistors:
x10 10k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 6.8M Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/6-8m-o ... istor.html
x10 100k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 1M Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 220k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x10 470 Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 4.7k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 220 Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x10 8.2k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
Diodes:
x3 1N5817
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/1n5817 ... a-20v.html
Potentiometers
x2 50kC - Bass & Treble Controls
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/c50k-o ... unt-l.html
x1 50kA - Volume Control
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/50k-oh ... mount.html
OPTIONAL Internal Trimmer Pots to hide inside the enclosure INSTEAD of the first two listed pots. You need two:
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/50k-oh ... 3362p.html
Integrated Circuit
x1 TL071
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/tl071- ... 071cp.html
x1 TC1044SCPA - Don't fuck this component up, it's expensive.
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/tc1044 ... or-ic.html
Transistors
x1 BC548/c
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/bc548- ... -0-1a.html
Misc. Parts
x2 Input Jacks
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/hardwa ... -jack.html
x1 Indicator/On & Off LED, pick your own color if you don't want blue
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/led-5m ... right.html
x1 Indicator LED housing
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/5mm-be ... -clip.html
x10 1.5k/3.3k Ohm Resistor FOR THE LED - Choose 1.5k or 3.3k for whatever Brightness you want:
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x1 DC Power Jack
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/dc-pow ... witch.html
x1 3PDT Switch
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/3pdt-s ... h-pcb.html
x1 Black Chickenhead Knob
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/chicke ... -knob.html
x? Wire - Order Red/Black/White in whatever quantity you need.
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/awg-22 ... anded.html
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/awg-22 ... anded.html
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/awg-22 ... anded.html
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/awg-22 ... solid.html
Enclosure
Use a 125B Enclosure. This build isn't a tight fit, but it will be difficult to line up everything without some experience. Use this link to pick your color:
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/catalo ... lt/?q=125b
Pedal PCB Fortin 33 Build
This build is specifically closer to the Fortin 33. This is in every way still the Integrated Preamp, but with the guess work of the Bass/Treble potentiometers out of the way. The design of this build is really neato, but this is a really intensive build compared to the Rullywow board. Be sure to double check where you're putting resistors/diodes in this build.
Where do I get the PCBs?
https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/triangulum/
https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/3pdt/
Where do I get the Build Docs?
Triangulum: https://www.pedalpcb.com/docs/PedalPCB-Triangulum.pdf
3PDT: https://www.pedalpcb.com/wp-content/upl ... 1/3PDT.png
Where do I get the parts?
Electrolytic Capacitors
x2 4.7uF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... x11mm.html
x5 10uF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... x11mm.html
x1 100uf
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... x11mm.html
Film Capacitors
x2 47nF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html
x1 1uF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html
x1 10nF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html
x1 100nF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html
x1 470nF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capaci ... citor.html
Ceramic Capacitors:
x1 100pF
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/100pf- ... citor.html
Resistors:
x10 47 Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 120 Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 220 Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x10 820 Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x10 1k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 1.8k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x10 2.2k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x10 3.9k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/3-9k-o ... istor.html
x10 4.7k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 10k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 12k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 20k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x10 22k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 100k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 220k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resist ... of-10.html
x10 820k Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
x10 1M Ohm 1/4w 1%
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-r ... of-10.html
Transistors
x2 BC500/c
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/catalo ... t/?q=bc550
Integrated Circuits
x1 TL071
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/tl071- ... 071cp.html
x1 TC1044SCPA - Don't fuck this component up, it's expensive.
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/tc1044 ... or-ic.html
Diodes
x2 1N914 - Be careful with these delicate little fucks
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/1n914- ... -100v.html
x1 1N5817
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/1n5817 ... a-20v.html
x6 1N4001
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/1n4001 ... a-50v.html
Misc. Parts
x1 5kA Logarithmic Potentiometer
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/potent ... -lugs.html
x2 Input Jacks
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/hardwa ... -jack.html
x1 Indicator/On & Off LED, pick your own color if you don't want blue
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/led-5m ... right.html
x1 Indicator LED housing
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/5mm-be ... -clip.html
x1 DC Power Jack
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/dc-pow ... witch.html
x1 3PDT Switch
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/3pdt-s ... h-pcb.html
x1 Black Chickenhead Knob
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/chicke ... -knob.html
x? Wire - Order Red/Black/White in whatever quantity you need.
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/awg-22 ... anded.html
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/awg-22 ... anded.html
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/awg-22 ... anded.html
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/awg-22 ... solid.html
Enclosure
Use a 125B Enclosure. This build isn't a tight fit, but it will be difficult to line up everything without some experience. Use this link to pick your color:
- https://www.taydaelectronics.com/catalo ... lt/?q=125b
Like I said above, read the build documents. Ensure you order ALL the parts you need, double check I didn't forget one. It's a real pain in the ass ordering again for a $0.25 part.
Tools?
Soldering Iron
I'd suggest a soldering station where you can manually adjust the temperature. You want it hot enough to get solder flowing quickly. If you use a crappy plugin iron, you run the risk of having to heat contacts longer and potentially damaging parts or burning out the PCB.
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23B ... 00ANZRT4M/
PCB Helping Hands
I'd also recommend a set of helping hands SPECIFICALLY for PCB boards. I can't tell you how much better it is to be able to put components in, flip and solder with a tool meant for it. I designed and 3D Printed my own but here are some suggestions to get you going:
https://www.amazon.com/Aven-17010-Adjus ... B00Q2TTQEE
https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-360%C ... B07HRMF1RQ
https://www.amazon.com/QuadHands-Flip-C ... B073G95GRF
Step Drill Bits
A step drill bit set, this is essential if you're building any kind of pedals. Pilot hole drill where you want to put stuff, drill those holes out up to 3/16", then use the step drill to get the right sizing. Let me tell you, building pedals before getting these was a pain in the fucking BALLS.
https://www.harborfreight.com/titanium- ... 60379.html
Non-Magnetic Tweeziez
A set of non-magnetic tweezers. While not necessary for you, I use a really nice pair nearly every time.
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-3-SA-Non-M ... 00FZPEWI6/
If you've made it this far, the following is my latest Fortin 33 / TC Electronics Integrated Preamp Build. This is in a Pedal PCB Triangulum build in a 1590B enclosure. I used insulated stereo jacks (when I probably shouldn't have), which made this an extremely tight fit. This is why I'd suggest a 125B for someone doing this casually.