SpiderWars
Well-known member
I think it's gonna be loud.
There is something growing in my basement
- Thread starter SpiderWars
- Start date
311splawndude
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in
SpiderWars
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Ha, I don't even have the big iron yet (Merren) and I am traveling a lot (by car) so I'll be pecking at it for a while. I'm using almost all new parts except for a couple of NOS AB CC resistors in spots and NOS dogbones for the Treble and Mixer spots. And there will be a Lemco 0.0047uF ceramic disc on the Bright Volume pull pot so it will be sort of a '68 SuperLead/SuperBass hybrid. Other than the Bright switch and elevating the heaters no tricks or even a MV.scottosan":242277x2 said:Okay. You posted this a few hours ago. Why aren’t you done yet
MetalHeadMike
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Looks cool.
dawnofdreamx97
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Awesome, have fun ! Nothing like a little solder therapy ...
fusedbrain
Well-known member
NiceSpiderWars":108bg0zo said:Ha, I don't even have the big iron yet (Merren) and I am traveling a lot (by car) so I'll be pecking at it for a while. I'm using almost all new parts except for a couple of NOS AB CC resistors in spots and NOS dogbones for the Treble and Mixer spots. And there will be a Lemco 0.0047uF ceramic disc on the Bright Volume pull pot so it will be sort of a '68 SuperLead/SuperBass hybrid. Other than the Bright switch and elevating the heaters no tricks or even a MV.scottosan":108bg0zo said:
Looks like a cool build.
I'm just wondering if you're going to use a .0047uf Lemco on the bright volume, you may want to re-think the absence of a master volume.
The LAR / MAR works pretty well in these amps to knock off some Db's and make the amp kinda usable. I've found it's best to dial in the NFB resistor at the projected "most used" MV setting though, as the LAR / MAR is in the NFB loop.
Unless you play stadiums, or are planning to use an attenuator, then......nevermind
SpiderWars
Well-known member
The tentative plan is to use one of the several tools available today to attenuate/reamp with effects, etc. These days we have some awesome products to crank these things without killing animals. I'll prob start with a Fryette PS.fusedbrain":26ydcy7q said:NiceSpiderWars":26ydcy7q said:Ha, I don't even have the big iron yet (Merren) and I am traveling a lot (by car) so I'll be pecking at it for a while. I'm using almost all new parts except for a couple of NOS AB CC resistors in spots and NOS dogbones for the Treble and Mixer spots. And there will be a Lemco 0.0047uF ceramic disc on the Bright Volume pull pot so it will be sort of a '68 SuperLead/SuperBass hybrid. Other than the Bright switch and elevating the heaters no tricks or even a MV.scottosan":26ydcy7q said:
Looks like a cool build.
I'm just wondering if you're going to use a .0047uf Lemco on the bright volume, you may want to re-think the absence of a master volume.
The LAR / MAR works pretty well in these amps to knock off some Db's and make the amp kinda usable. I've found it's best to dial in the NFB resistor at the projected "most used" MV setting though, as the LAR / MAR is in the NFB loop.
Unless you play stadiums, or are planning to use an attenuator, then......nevermind
SpiderWars
Well-known member
...and purple. Courtesy of Sour Mash. Most things installed except iron. No wiring done at all though.SpiderWars":2qa0wbl5 said:
technomancer
Well-known member
Nice choice of color... might go that route for the Jose'ish build I'm doing.
Racerxrated
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Looks Killer!
SpiderWars
Well-known member
I'm thinking of wiring the heaters and power tube sockets SLO style. The power tube sockets are 'clocked' differently but I looked at old McIntosh HiFi amps and they ran the heater wires similarly (and naked). And many if not most Marshalls didn't have great layout/proper twisting anyway.