kahlers...

  • Thread starter Thread starter JackBootedThug
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JackBootedThug

JackBootedThug

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I like them....when they are set up....and when they are locked and used as bridges. I started working on that Greco sykes and holy fuck is that kahler out of wack. Cam isn't level,string spacing is off, string heights are mismatched....and to top it off the bridge is cocked clockwise.....lol. And I broke the high e while stringing and tuning to start adjusting everything. Got the string heights fixed, and spacing is good-just not locked down. Once I figure what size hex driver I'll straighten the bridge. Final thing is levelling the cam and intonate. Fuck me running. It's gonna be killer when done. The action felt sweet before, can't wait to see when it's done. If I don't stroke out first. lol....
 
I took my Hanny to the tech I’ve used for years to be setup when I received it. He said he had done Kahlers before but when I got it back, it was all over the place. So I bought all the tools and made a kit for the Kahler and learned how to set it up myself. Once I fixed his mistakes, it’s been excellent. Mine has the 2315 locking tremolo and the 6 way adjustable saddles can be tricky but once you got, it’s easy. I’ve always preferred Kahler bridges.
 
I like these bridges as well. One thing I've found now that I have several guitars with them (all used), is that sometimes people have a tendency to over-tighten the screws on either side of the unit that hold the cam in place. This is not the level of it, but the tightness of it. I learned this on a Kahler Facebook group. Anyway, I had one guitar where the trem would not return to pitch at all, and there was no reason I could determine. I even bought new springs. Once I finally loosened up those two screws (maybe 1/2 turn each) it worked fine.
 
I think there’s a 2-3 part series on YouTube, from Kahler on adjusting the bridges. It’s worth the time!
 
Bro KV said:
I think there’s a 2-3 part series on YouTube, from Kahler on adjusting the bridges. It’s worth the time!
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yep-I watched it.....I really like the fuckin things.....but the ones I've had in the past were all fixed and only used as a fixed bridge.
 
this is the 1st arch top type for me. the others were a spyder and something else...
 
JackBootedThug said:
yep-I watched it.....I really like the fuckin things.....but the ones I've had in the past were all fixed and only used as a fixed bridge.
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I used 3310 fixed bridges in the past and loved them. The 2315 is extremely similar to it and having the ability to lock it with a set screw is perfect.
 
Yeah, I basically wouldn't trust anyone to set up a Kahler if I'm not doing it myself. They're always all out of whack. But I do like them when they're adjusted right, and strung up right too. Great smooth feel and great tuning stability.
 
I could not get it to set straight at all. Bridge would not move forward on the studs at all.....and it has no locking screw on the cam so it's fully back with the fine tuners touching the back of the bridge. Need to figure out what model it is and go from there. For how it sits right now the action is great and it's tuned and intonated. Fuck it.
 
Locking screw...? The set of the cam is done from the top of the cam, between the G and D strings.
 
But I wonder what's going on with those small screws that set the position on the back studs. Perhaps you should remove the whole thing and see that all the tiny screws have a smooth range like they should. It works best adjusting those two without string tension, anyway, not much force in that small diameter I guess.
 
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Dave L said:
Locking screw...? The set of the cam is done from the top of the cam, between the G and D strings.
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most that I have seen have 3 adjustment screws on the back...one on each mounting stud, plus one more between them to lock the cam in place to turn it into a fixed bridge-or to set it in place during string changes....
 
Dave L said:
But I wonder what's going on with those small screws that set the position on the back studs. Perhaps you should remove the whole thing and see that all the tiny screws have a smooth range like they should. It works best adjusting those two without string tension, anyway, not much force in that small diameter I guess.
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those two were nowhere near the studs...not touching at all. They are now because I adjusted them for the hell of it.
 
notice the slight cant on top....and shouldn't the bridge be completely on the mounting studs? I could not get it to budge at all.

ha-I just noticed I have the ball ends on some of the strings canted...duh...
 
JackBootedThug said:
most that I have seen have 3 adjustment screws on the back...one on each mounting stud, plus one more between them to lock the cam in place to turn it into a fixed bridge-or to set it in place during string changes....
Click to expand...

Yeah, not all of them have that set screw and in any case it doesn't do anything to the neutral position of the cam, which is adjusted with "spring tension" in the diagram KV posted.

Looking at the pic, are the tops of those two back posts sort of squashing the whole thing down? Slack the strings and see if the bridge is stuck on them. The bridge should be pretty loose at that point, otherwise you should raise them a bit.
 
Dave L said:
Yeah, not all of them have that set screw and in any case it doesn't do anything to the neutral position of the cam, which is adjusted with "spring tension" in the diagram KV posted.

Looking at the pic, are the tops of those two back posts sort of squashing the whole thing down? Slack the strings and see if the bridge is stuck on them. The bridge should be pretty loose at that point.
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I loosened the strings and then tried to loosen the studs but that didn't work.
 
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