What's a good adhesive for re-gluing lifting tolex on a 84 Marshall JCM800 under the back metal grill?

  • Thread starter Thread starter harddriver
  • Start date Start date
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@harddriver can you post a pic where it's lifting? Several glues will work so its more about how big of a spot it is and which glue will make the least mess.

For a full recover or large area fixes I've had great results with 3M Super 90 and Gorilla Ultimate. Gorilla Heavy Duty worked well too.

If it's just a small spot that's lifting, regular PVA or super glue will do the trick. I've used both to touch up minor tears and lifting corner seams.

Never used it myself because I prefer spray, but brush on contact cement is used a lot too.

The one glue that sucked all around and didn't hold worth a crap was 3M Super 77.
 
MadAsAHatter said:
@harddriver can you post a pic where it's lifting? Several glues will work so its more about how big of a spot it is and which glue will make the least mess.

For a full recover or large area fixes I've had great results with 3M Super 90 and Gorilla Ultimate. Gorilla Heavy Duty worked well too.

If it's just a small spot that's lifting, regular PVA or super glue will do the trick. I've used both to touch up minor tears and lifting corner seams.

Never used it myself because I prefer spray, but brush on contact cement is used a lot too.

The one glue that sucked all around and didn't hold worth a crap was 3M Super 77.
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The tolex is lifting on the inner lip of the rear headbox where the rear metal back panel fits into on a JCM800 fullsize headbox. I've had the back panel off for a long time and the tolex is curling up the entire length now since the back panel is not applying pressure.

I see that Antique Electronic supply has a brush on tolex glue....brush on probably would be best it's in a small area.
 
harddriver said:
The tolex is lifting on the inner lip of the rear headbox where the rear metal back panel fits into on a JCM800 fullsize headbox. I've had the back panel off for a long time and the tolex is curling up the entire length now since the back panel is not applying pressure.

I see that Antique Electronic supply has a brush on tolex glue....brush on probably would be best it's in a small area.
Click to expand...

A brush on glue will definitely make the least mess. You don't need any kind of specialty glue for tolex. Contact cement from the hardware store will work
Just pay attention to the working and dry times.

You'll need to remove as much of the old glue as you can. Then apply the contact cement to both the shell and tolex. Follow the instructions for adhesion. Usually let it tack up then press it down.
 
I would just use any brand of super glue ..... gel if you have it .... the gel will stay still for you ... the liquid stuff will run all over ( which is nice in certain situations )
but if you're spot fixing .... super glue gel would be my call
 
MadAsAHatter said:
@harddriver can you post a pic where it's lifting? Several glues will work so its more about how big of a spot it is and which glue will make the least mess.

For a full recover or large area fixes I've had great results with 3M Super 90 and Gorilla Ultimate. Gorilla Heavy Duty worked well too.

If it's just a small spot that's lifting, regular PVA or super glue will do the trick. I've used both to touch up minor tears and lifting corner seams.

Never used it myself because I prefer spray, but brush on contact cement is used a lot too.

The one glue that sucked all around and didn't hold worth a crap was 3M Super 77.
Click to expand...
that 3m Super 90 is the balls ..... it's like shooting SpiderMan webs ..... I use that for my sides when I'm doing a full head or cab ... I use regular vinyl floor adhesive with a roller for the bulk areas
 
For that I would use normal CA glue/ superglue. I like the bsi instacure+. I’m not the biggest fan of super 77 or the spray stuff.

Wilson art h2o is great but probably not for your application since it has to dry and be reheated.
 
Former music shop employee here. For black tolex, the best glue is BLACK weather stripping adhesive. It dries back so any exposed gap turns black and it matches the texture of tolex pretty well. 3M is the name brand but generic will work. For other colors of tolex, still use weatherstripping adhesive, but get the "clear" version. Can find at most auto parts stores. Also good for repairing shoes. Wear disposable gloves, as the nickname for this stuff is "black death", meaning if you get it on your skin it seems like it will be there until you die. Use a toothpick to cram the glue under the tolex flaps a little at a time, and then clamp or press with weights over wax paper if needed.
 
MadAsAHatter said:
A brush on glue will definitely make the least mess. You don't need any kind of specialty glue for tolex. Contact cement from the hardware store will work
Just pay attention to the working and dry times.

You'll need to remove as much of the old glue as you can. Then apply the contact cement to both the shell and tolex. Follow the instructions for adhesion. Usually let it tack up then press it down.
Click to expand...
I ended up using DAP Weldwood contact cement but thanks for all the good suggestions. :2thumbsup: I wiped the areas down with alcohol, let the isopropyl alcohol flash off. I did not remove any of the old glue.

If only took a light coating on both surfaces, wait the suggested 15 minute working time for the adhesive to tack up and then start pressing down the tolex to the wood and the bond is almost immediate with no lifting so you don't need to clamp the tolex if you don't want to.

Every area on this headbox that had lifting tolex is now glued back down perfectly with no excess glue at the edges making a mess and the cure time is very quick. :2thumbsup:
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harddriver said:
I ended up using DAP Weldwood contact cement but thanks for all the good suggestions. :2thumbsup: I wiped the areas down with alcohol, let the isopropyl alcohol flash off. I did not remove any of the old glue.

If only took a light coating on both surfaces, wait the suggested 15 minute working time for the adhesive to tack up and then start pressing down the tolex to the wood and the bond is almost immediate with no lifting so you don't need to clamp the tolex if you don't want to.

Every area on this headbox that had lifting tolex is now glued back down perfectly with no excess glue at the edges making a mess and the cure time is very quick. :2thumbsup:
View attachment 400725
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Awesome! I'm glad you were able to get all done without any hassle.
 
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