Got a vintage Marshall? Change those can caps!

Yeah make sure you look for a bulge on the end with the solder terminals, not the end sticking up on the outside of the amp.
 
I agree with FourT6and2.
1. Dont buy old caps from an unknown source.
2. New caps do not need to be formed.
 
FourT6and2":2874svrj said:
It shouldn't be necessary to form new electrolytic unless they've been sitting on a shelf for years.
If you buy direct from ARS, you can ask for date of manufacturer based on the batch number.

Doesn't hurt to form them. But it's a waste of time IMO. I don't think any major amp companies bother, it would take too long to slowly form filter caps for 24 hours on thousands and thousands of amps... I dunno... maybe big companies have a device that pre-forms all their caps before they're installed? I know caps are pre-formed during the manufacturing process. So why form them again if they're new and fresh?
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+1
I've recapped several vintage fenders (4 or 5 champs, 70's twin, and 66 FDR) and treated it like a tube change. just put em in, and played! no variac or "forming".
never had an issue. fwiw.
 
FourT6and2":2t1218xy said:
blackba":2t1218xy said:
I have never regretted changing the electrolytic caps. I also use a variac to bring up the voltage on them slowly as Psychodave mentioned.
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That isn't how you (properly) form filter caps.

For 100-watt Marshall, you need to remove all tubes, run a resistor between the rectifier and the first filter cap, remove the bleeder resistors, and unsolder the center tap from the PT secondary. Then monitor the voltage drop across the resistor over the course of 24 hours until the voltage drop is reduced to 5v or so. Then the caps are formed and you can hook everything back up the way it was.

Using a variac limits the voltage to the entire amp. That isn't what you want to do to form caps. You need full voltage but have to limit current. That's why a resistor works better.
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I see a confused bringing up the voltage to the amp slowly with forming. Thanks for clearing that up. Never had a need to form a cap, but will know what I need to do now if I need to.

Just got a Marshall JCM800 in for mods and Preventative Maintenance, will go with the ARS caps. I used F&T in my Jubilee and noticed no difference from the stock LCRs. Kind of surprised to see the negative opinions on the F&T. I usually get my parts from https://www.tubesandmore.com/
 
When Brent Gutierrez modded my 800 he changed the caps. Best thing to do whenever you have an old amp modded. Damned thing absolutely crushes and will last another 20 years.
 
glpg80":2bw2f95b said:
I've used Panasonic and F&T exclusively for audio builds without a problem. I got compliments left and right with my 5150 II that's loaded with F&Ts. Never heard of ARS before, but I do prefer F&T over JJ electros. I'd use panasonic exclusively if they came in a cap can format.

I just ordered new F&Ts for my marshall.
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I'd use Panasonic or Epcos if they made typical dual-section "can" caps used in guitar amps. F&T... well I prefer ARS. F&T really do impart a sort of granularity to the sound for some reason. I didn't believe it when people said that, but I've swapped caps to compare between ARS, F&T, JJ, and Holy Grail. ARS are the clear winners for me.
 
FourT6and2":2yu0p6pt said:
glpg80":2yu0p6pt said:
I've used Panasonic and F&T exclusively for audio builds without a problem. I got compliments left and right with my 5150 II that's loaded with F&Ts. Never heard of ARS before, but I do prefer F&T over JJ electros. I'd use panasonic exclusively if they came in a cap can format.

I just ordered new F&Ts for my marshall.
Click to expand...

I'd use Panasonic or Epcos if they made typical dual-section "can" caps used in guitar amps. F&T... well I prefer ARS. F&T really do impart a sort of granularity to the sound for some reason. I didn't believe it when people said that, but I've swapped caps to compare between ARS, F&T, JJ, and Holy Grail. ARS are the clear winners for me.
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I'll keep a lookout for the granularity you mention. First time I've ever even heard of it to be honest. Worst comes to worst, they come out and get put on the shelf as a repair cap. I do agree, IMHO I believe panasonic has the market on best capacitors out there for audio. I use them exclusively on all home theatre equipment repairs and have astounding success with them and their sonic performance. My 5150 II has panasonic's for the PCB mounted screen and plate filter caps.
 
I love the sound of Nichicon audio grade capacitors for bypassing. Filtering I really like F&T as well as others like LCR and ARS. I don’t find them to be grainy. Just my opinion.
 
glpg80":1e6jr3dc said:
FourT6and2":1e6jr3dc said:
glpg80":1e6jr3dc said:
I've used Panasonic and F&T exclusively for audio builds without a problem. I got compliments left and right with my 5150 II that's loaded with F&Ts. Never heard of ARS before, but I do prefer F&T over JJ electros. I'd use panasonic exclusively if they came in a cap can format.

I just ordered new F&Ts for my marshall.
Click to expand...

I'd use Panasonic or Epcos if they made typical dual-section "can" caps used in guitar amps. F&T... well I prefer ARS. F&T really do impart a sort of granularity to the sound for some reason. I didn't believe it when people said that, but I've swapped caps to compare between ARS, F&T, JJ, and Holy Grail. ARS are the clear winners for me.
Click to expand...

I'll keep a lookout for the granularity you mention. First time I've ever even heard of it to be honest. Worst comes to worst, they come out and get put on the shelf as a repair cap. I do agree, IMHO I believe panasonic has the market on best capacitors out there for audio. I use them exclusively on all home theatre equipment repairs and have astounding success with them and their sonic performance. My 5150 II has panasonic's for the PCB mounted screen and plate filter caps.
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Picked up an 87 Jubilee 2555, it had a grainy thing going instead of the usual smooth type gain. The Filter caps were F&T and recently changed according to the date. Didn't sound bad, just different than I was used to with Jubilees.
 
Racerxrated":2diha6ue said:
Picked up an 87 Jubilee 2555, it had a grainy thing going instead of the usual smooth type gain. The Filter caps were F&T and recently changed according to the date. Didn't sound bad, just different than I was used to with Jubilees.
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Now you need to change those F+T's for ARS's to see if that grainy quality goes away, It would be great to know.
 
harddriver":3om2zazq said:
Racerxrated":3om2zazq said:
Picked up an 87 Jubilee 2555, it had a grainy thing going instead of the usual smooth type gain. The Filter caps were F&T and recently changed according to the date. Didn't sound bad, just different than I was used to with Jubilees.
Click to expand...

Now you need to change those F+T's for ARS's to see if that grainy quality goes away, It would be great to know.
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Forgot to mention that was a few years ago. Gary(Glip22) did that same thing with a Marshall and noticed it changed, put ARS in and it went away.
 
Rick Lee said:
I recapped my '78 100w NMV last weekend with F&Ts and Sprague Atom for the bias caps. It still had the original Dalys and they were long in the tooth. Amp sounds fantastic now and I can play it loud without worry. I've used F&Ts for all my recap jobs or clone builds. They sound fine to me.
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Agree. '76 Super Bass and '82 2204 recapped with F&T's. Both sound the same as before, just fresher. No hate here
 
itsme said:
Agree. '76 Super Bass and '82 2204 recapped with F&T's. Both sound the same as before, just fresher. No hate here
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Some hear the grainy thing with F&T, most don’t. ARS for me. Plus when you put them in they are the exact same diameter as the LCRs. Other caps can be narrower.
 
Greazygeo said:
I have a 2205 sitting here that Im thinking of buying. Bunch of stupid things done to it…sure it needs caps too.

Pretty good sounding amp overall.
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These 2205/10s can be real sleepers. Most lean towards the 2203/4 and rightly so; but I’ve had 2 2205s and 1 2210 that I’d put up against any 2203/4 + a boost. One particular 1987 2205 I had was 80s rock in a box….straight in no boost needed. I picked up a 1988 version a year ago and it’s damn close to that 1987 I had. You can hear the almost cocked wah in their mids; must be why Schenker loves them.
 
Racerxrated said:
These 2205/10s can be real sleepers. Most lean towards the 2203/4 and rightly so; but I’ve had 2 2205s and 1 2210 that I’d put up against any 2203/4 + a boost. One particular 1987 2205 I had was 80s rock in a box….straight in no boost needed. I picked up a 1988 version a year ago and it’s damn close to that 1987 I had. You can hear the almost cocked wah in their mids; must be why Schenker loves them.
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There was one at GIT on the stage in the main performance hall. Everyone tried to plug into it, sounded great. Always kinda liked them when they were new, just couldn’t afford one. The old ones could be had all the time for $300-400. These 2205/10’s were well over $1000 back then.
 
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