2x12 wiring preference?

[reverymike]

I noticed that most of the manufacturers use two 16 ohm speakers, wired in parallel in their 2x12 cab, which is then an 8 ohm cab.

Is there a reason for this? You could also use two 8 ohm speakers wired in series for a 16 ohm cab. But you don't see that as often.

I'm getting ready to buy speakers for a 2x12 and I'm not sure which way to go.

Thoughts???

 

[GOHOINC]

I've done both. I didn't notice a difference other than the difference of a 2x12 and a 4x12

 

[Buckeyedog]

I just normally do the parallel of the 16 ohm because I have 16 ohm speakers in my 412 so I could swap them around if necessary.

Not sure if there is much of a difference, but can't really validate that.

Some say that in series, if a speaker goes then there is no signal continuing to the speakers and may damage the output tranny on the amp. In parallel, you still will have one speaker taking the load.

 

[moltenmetalburn]

Paralell less gainy, less saturated, more clear. Has more to do with where/how the transfomer is tapped secondary to the impedence change than anything else.

 

[blackba]

I prefer 8ohm speakers in a 212. With a series/parrallel/stereo jack plate, it gives a lot of options to try with different amps.

 

[BC Audio]

I just normally do the parallel of the 16 ohm because I have 16 ohm speakers in my 412 so I could swap them around if necessary...

+1

I carried this thinking over to the cabs I sell, so I don't have to stock 8 ohm speakers (tho you can always custom order anything).

 

[reverymike]

I prefer 8ohm speakers in a 212. With a series/parrallel/stereo jack plate, it gives a lot of options to try with different amps.

So, you wire them in series for a 16 ohm cab, and then you can switch to parallel wiring for a 4 ohm cab?

 

[chobley]

I tried it in a bogner 2x12 . The 8ohm sounded more powerful with good punch . The 16ohm had more chime, vintage feel . I stayed with 8ohm

 

[Scumback Speakers]

Dave Friedman and I did a bunch of testing of both 8 ohm and 16 ohm wired cabs 7-8 years ago. George Lynch wandered in while we were doing it. After swapping 8 ohm for 16 ohm setups in both 4x12 and 2x12 setups, we wound up concluding that the 8 ohm tap gives you more mids and a bit more punch, while the 16 ohm tap had a bit more bass and vintage feel.

Of course, if you have a 100w amp and two 16 ohm 4x12 cabs, you set the amp at 8 ohms to properly address the halving of the OT output (two 16 ohm cabs in parallel is an 8 ohm load) using two 16 ohm cabs.

As for the 2x12 setups, we noticed the same mid bump at 8 ohms vs the 16 ohm the 4x12's had. In addition, the parallel wiring of two 16 ohm speakers in a 2x12 is an 8 ohm load, and if one speaker fails, the other speaker still puts a load on the OT. If you run two 8 ohm speakers in series to 16 ohms, then if one fails there is no load on the OT and you can fry it in a very short time frame.

Consequently I always recommend an 8 ohm load with two 16 ohm speakers in a 2x12 for the tonal punch and the safety of the parallel wiring in case a speaker fries.

 

[reverymike]

Thanks! That helps!

 

[Scumback Speakers]

Thanks! That helps!

You are quite welcome.

 

[El Mariachi]

Dave Friedman and I did a bunch of testing of both 8 ohm and 16 ohm wired cabs 7-8 years ago. George Lynch wandered in while we were doing it. After swapping 8 ohm for 16 ohm setups in both 4x12 and 2x12 setups, we wound up concluding that the 8 ohm tap gives you more mids and a bit more punch, while the 16 ohm tap had a bit more bass and vintage feel.

Of course, if you have a 100w amp and two 16 ohm 4x12 cabs, you set the amp at 8 ohms to properly address the halving of the OT output (two 16 ohm cabs in parallel is an 8 ohm load) using two 16 ohm cabs.

As for the 2x12 setups, we noticed the same mid bump at 8 ohms vs the 16 ohm the 4x12's had. In addition, the parallel wiring of two 16 ohm speakers in a 2x12 is an 8 ohm load, and if one speaker fails, the other speaker still puts a load on the OT. If you run two 8 ohm speakers in series to 16 ohms, then if one fails there is no load on the OT and you can fry it in a very short time frame.

Consequently I always recommend an 8 ohm load with two 16 ohm speakers in a 2x12 for the tonal punch and the safety of the parallel wiring in case a speaker fries.

Great info! Thanks for sharing Jim!

 

[blackba]

I prefer 8ohm speakers in a 212. With a series/parrallel/stereo jack plate, it gives a lot of options to try with different amps.

So, you wire them in series for a 16 ohm cab, and then you can switch to parallel wiring for a 4 ohm cab?

I use is jack plate which means I can choose on the fly what works for my amp. https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/S-H700

I have some amps that want 4ohms, some that want 4/8ohms, some that want 8/16ohms and some that will take 4/8/16ohms. So for me 2 8ohm soeakers in a 212 allow the cabs to work for any of the amps.

Seems I am in the minority with this preference, but as they say use what works for you.

 

[Scumback Speakers]

I use is jack plate which means I can choose on the fly what works for my amp. https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/S-H700

I have some amps that want 4ohms, some that want 4/8ohms, some that want 8/16ohms and some that will take 4/8/16ohms. So for me 2 8ohm soeakers in a 212 allow the cabs to work for any of the amps.

Seems I am in the minority with this preference, but as they say use what works for you.

I've got a few of those in the shop, unused, unopened. All but one has had to be fixed in one way or another. Usually the solder bath wiring goes bad, and has to be resoldered...and they only work correctly with 8 ohm speakers. You can rewire them to work with 16 ohm speakers, but then you have to relabel the jacks, and not use the bottom one when you do.

I had a couple go bad on me in client's cabs, and they're the ones who've sworn them off, advising me of their problems with them.

If they work for you blackba, great! But they didn't have a great track record with my clients. Maybe I just got a pile of bad ones, who knows...same source, I might add.

Glad they're working for you, but they do suck some tone due to the solder bath wiring. That's why I went back to just the input jack and wire directly to the speakers.

 

[blackba]

I use is jack plate which means I can choose on the fly what works for my amp. https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/S-H700

I have some amps that want 4ohms, some that want 4/8ohms, some that want 8/16ohms and some that will take 4/8/16ohms. So for me 2 8ohm soeakers in a 212 allow the cabs to work for any of the amps.

Seems I am in the minority with this preference, but as they say use what works for you.

I've got a few of those in the shop, unused, unopened. All but one has had to be fixed in one way or another. Usually the solder bath wiring goes bad, and has to be resoldered...and they only work correctly with 8 ohm speakers. You can rewire them to work with 16 ohm speakers, but then you have to relabel the jacks, and not use the bottom one when you do.

I had a couple go bad on me in client's cabs, and they're the ones who've sworn them off, advising me of their problems with them.

If they work for you blackba, great! But they didn't have a great track record with my clients. Maybe I just got a pile of bad ones, who knows...same source, I might add.

Glad they're working for you, but they do suck some tone due to the solder bath wiring. That's why I went back to just the input jack and wire directly to the speakers.

Most of mine are the Marshall branded ones. Only issue with those has been the switch can get noisey if you don't use it. On the ones from the tube store, only have one, but it has worked so no issues for me. I am sure there is a slight tone change, but not one that I could notice. For me the benefits out weight the costs as I am always mixing and matching cabs. I like to experiment. I am handy with a soldering iron too so any issues I can take care of usually. Just wish we weren't stuck using that lead free solder in all new products like these jack plates.

I designed and wired my own one of these jack plates in college before I ever saw one available to buy. I now purchase them since the one I made was clunky due to no pcb.

 

[stoneage cabs]

I use is jack plate which means I can choose on the fly what works for my amp. https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/S-H700

I have some amps that want 4ohms, some that want 4/8ohms, some that want 8/16ohms and some that will take 4/8/16ohms. So for me 2 8ohm soeakers in a 212 allow the cabs to work for any of the amps.

Seems I am in the minority with this preference, but as they say use what works for you.

I've got a few of those in the shop, unused, unopened. All but one has had to be fixed in one way or another. Usually the solder bath wiring goes bad, and has to be resoldered...and they only work correctly with 8 ohm speakers. You can rewire them to work with 16 ohm speakers, but then you have to relabel the jacks, and not use the bottom one when you do.

I had a couple go bad on me in client's cabs, and they're the ones who've sworn them off, advising me of their problems with them.

If they work for you blackba, great! But they didn't have a great track record with my clients. Maybe I just got a pile of bad ones, who knows...same source, I might add.

Glad they're working for you, but they do suck some tone due to the solder bath wiring. That's why I went back to just the input jack and wire directly to the speakers.

Jim, Happy New Year ya ratt-bastidd.. ..I have installed many PNP's in my cabinets with zero issues in the shop or anyone reporting back with a failure. Not sure what's up with the ones you have. In any event, a 4x12 w/16 ohm speakers can be used without any mods or re-labelling to the PNP unit.

 

[BC Audio]

I think it's hilarious that they have "TM" next to Plug and Play. Really? If they own the trademark to "Plug and Play," they should file a thousand law suits tomorrow and retire to a private tropical island somewhere.