A/B/Y amp switcher??? and MIDI programing questions. updated

[again with this]

Using Loops as Switches
________________________________________________________
GCX loops will act as footswitches like those used for amp channel switching and
bypassing signal processors.
The GCX supports both standard switch types, latched and momentary. You can also
select between normally open and normally closed operation.
Latched or momentary modes are selected from your Ground Control (see "Using the
GCX with a Ground Control"). Normally open and normally closed operation are
selected by plugging into either the OUT/N.O. jack (for Normally Open), or the SEND/N.C.
jack (for Normally Closed).
Latching Type
Most footswitch inputs on amps, preamps, and effects devices require latching type
switches. A latching switch has two possible states, either open (tip and sleeve
unconnected), or closed (tip and sleeve are connected together).
To control latching footswitches from a GCX loop, simply connect from the GCX loop
OUT/N.O. jack to the footswitch jack:

Sounds like it will do it.

You're right - the reason I needed the Footsim is that I didn't want to waste 4 loops of my GCX to cover all the possible switching on my MKIV. I would have needed to waste half the loops just on switching the MKIV and I had a lot of other things I needed to be able to do... You should be fine...

Steve

True, it will cost me 4 of the 8 loops for both of the switching capabilities of my amps (realisticly only 3, 'cuz I'm not planning on using the F/X loop on the 5150) and another 2 for all A/B/Y possibilities. That still leaves me at least two loops open...

Dood!! you have 2 GCXs... you really using 16 loops?!

Thanks for all you help Steve. I really appreciate your patience with my sooper n00b questions.

Scott

 

[Zachman]

Using Loops as Switches
________________________________________________________
GCX loops will act as footswitches like those used for amp channel switching and
bypassing signal processors.
The GCX supports both standard switch types, latched and momentary. You can also
select between normally open and normally closed operation.
Latched or momentary modes are selected from your Ground Control (see "Using the
GCX with a Ground Control"). Normally open and normally closed operation are
selected by plugging into either the OUT/N.O. jack (for Normally Open), or the SEND/N.C.
jack (for Normally Closed).
Latching Type
Most footswitch inputs on amps, preamps, and effects devices require latching type
switches. A latching switch has two possible states, either open (tip and sleeve
unconnected), or closed (tip and sleeve are connected together).
To control latching footswitches from a GCX loop, simply connect from the GCX loop
OUT/N.O. jack to the footswitch jack:

Sounds like it will do it.

You're right - the reason I needed the Footsim is that I didn't want to waste 4 loops of my GCX to cover all the possible switching on my MKIV. I would have needed to waste half the loops just on switching the MKIV and I had a lot of other things I needed to be able to do... You should be fine...

Steve

True, it will cost me 4 of the 8 loops for both of the switching capabilities of my amps (realisticly only 3, 'cuz I'm not planning on using the F/X loop on the 5150) and another 2 for all A/B/Y possibilities. That still leaves me at least two loops open...

Dood!! you have 2 GCXs... you really using 16 loops?!

Thanks for all you help Steve. I really appreciate your patience with my sooper n00b questions.

Scott

I count 10 for just pedals, in Steve's rig.

They do add up quickly

 

[again with this]

I count 10 for just pedals

Wow!!!

Big thanks to you, and Ralph too, Zach. You guys were onto me needing the GCX from the get-go.

Now, who wants to come over and put it all together for me?

 

[Zachman]

I count 10 for just pedals

Wow!!!

Big thanks to you, and Ralph too, Zach. You guys were onto me needing the GCX from the get-go.

Now, who wants to come over and put it all together for me?

hehehehe Ya, Steve has more pedals than I do. I have 6. Here is a few pics of my madness:

You're most welcome. Glad I could help. Best of luck in your endeavor. IF you were here in Hawaii, I'd gladly help you, BUT... I suspect you'll do just fine and the education that you gain from doing this yourself will be invaluable, and go a LONG way in furthering your appreciation for and understanding of all the tools that can make being a guitarist such a fun thing.

Ralph is an AWESOME talent and a GREAT person and I am lucky to call him my friend. As well, he is a wealth of info, and IMO an asset to this forum. Steve and so many others as well, too are great guys and resources of info and ideas. The experience and expertise of all of these guys, and their willingness to share is what has proven to be educational and helpful to me. That is CERTAIN.

There are many different direction to the road that leads the way, SOMETIMES... Sometimes we wish there were because there really is only one way. Fortunately for you, there are options. It sucks for a lot of guys that their aspirations are quickly dashed, when the reality of the cost of their dreams are realized, and they are forced to hurry up and wait.

I would recommend that you NOT cut your cables to length after wiring your rig up... at least for a while, because you may find that you want to change things up a few times, to suit an idea that hadn't previously been realized. ALSO, you want to make sure everything works as intended first.

It'll be fine. EVERYTHING is hard until you learn how to do it. Heck if I can do it, anyone can.

 

[again with this]

I count 10 for just pedals

Wow!!!

Big thanks to you, and Ralph too, Zach. You guys were onto me needing the GCX from the get-go.

Now, who wants to come over and put it all together for me?

hehehehe Ya, Steve has more pedals than I do. I have 6. You're most welcome. Glad I could help. Best of luck in your endeavor. IF you were here in Hawaii, I'd gladly help you, BUT... I suspect you'll do just fine and the education that you gain from doing this yourself will be invaluable, and go a LONG way in furthering your appreciation for and understanding of all the tools that can make being a guitarist such a fun thing.

Ralph is an AWESOME talent and a GREAT person and I am lucky to call him my friend. As well, he is a wealth of info, and IMO an asset to this forum. Steve and so many others as well, too are great guys and resources of info and ideas. The experience and expertise of all of these guys, and their willingness to share is what has proven to be educational and helpful to me. That is CERTAIN.

There are many different direction to the road that leads the way, SOMETIMES... Sometimes we wish there were because there really is only one way. Fortunately for you, there are options. It sucks for a lot of guys that their aspirations are quickly dashed, when the reality of the cost of their dreams are realized, and they are forced to hurry up and wait.

I would recommend that you NOT cut your cables to length after wiring your rig up... at least for a while, because you may find that you want to change things up a few times, to suit an idea that hadn't previously been realized. ALSO, you want to make sure everything works as intended first.

It'll be fine. EVERYTHING is hard until you learn how to do it. Heck if I can do it, anyone can.

yeah man, I hear ya. I am lucky my needs are relatively simple (for now).

Wait. Who said anything about cutting cables?

BTW, I see you a chronic post editor too...

 

[Zachman]

BTW, I see you a chronic post editor too...

re: cutting cables to length and zip tying them makes everything neat, easier to trouble shoot (God forbid the necessity), and helps to prevent RF noise.

Also tip: route your AC power cables on the opposite side of your rig as your instrument cables. (It keeps things quieter)

 

[again with this]

BTW, I see you a chronic post editor too...

re: cutting cables to length and zip tying them makes everything neat, easier to trouble shoot (God forbid the necessity), and helps to prevent RF noise.

Also tip: route your AC power cables on the opposite side of your rig as your instrument cables. (It keeps things quieter)

That makes a lot of sense. It wil come way later. Is the noise difference really that noticable?

 

[Zachman]

BTW, I see you a chronic post editor too...

re: cutting cables to length and zip tying them makes everything neat, easier to trouble shoot (God forbid the necessity), and helps to prevent RF noise.

Also tip: route your AC power cables on the opposite side of your rig as your instrument cables. (It keeps things quieter)

That makes a lot of sense. It wil come way later. Is the noise difference really that noticable?

It is- when the back of the rack looks like this: Though it is less blurry in person.

 

[again with this]

It is- when the back of the rack looks like this: Though it is less blurry in person.

That is one heck of a rig. Maybe after I get the GCX, my rack will qualify as a rack. Right now, it's kinda just a head on steroids.

 

[again with this]

yeah, I did ask about splitting the GMajor relays. but that was more of an uninformed means to an end.

Really the GMajor switching the Mesa is just fine, what I really want is to ADD the 5150 to the mix and have it switch clean/distorted at the same time as the Mesas. that's where I was going with the relay splitting.

The effects on the Mesa are fine, don't need them on the 5150. Just want them to switch channels simultaneously.

Sorry if I was unclear.

What's this amp gizmo?

Sup! I just wasn't sure if I was clear lol!! With that said the GCX can control both amps at the same time as well as switch your effects. The amp gizmo is like the GCX switcher.
you can check it out here!

http://www.rjmmusic.com/ampgizmo.php

OMG

thats EXACTLY. what i needed.

my 5150II is MIDI, and controlling the bank's and program functions via my midi footswitch just cant be programmed. i was confoosed.

that box is exactly what i have needed. awsome. imho the info here should be renamed MIDI TOPIC and become a sticky =]

Dunno if sticky is needed, but I added "MIDI programing" to the thread title for better search results in the future.

 

[Zachman]

It is- when the back of the rack looks like this: Though it is less blurry in person.

That is one heck of a rig. Maybe after I get the GCX, my rack will qualify as a rack. Right now, it's kinda just a head on steroids.

Thanks... hehehe actually this is the first rig that I've ever had (out of MANY) that has a switching system. All of the rest of my previous rigs were controlled by a TC 2290, MIDI pedal was a TC 0144 and routing was through 2 Rane SM26 splitter mixers, with the pedals that I used on the floor in front of me.

Most of the time for live gigs, I use this "Rig", or something similar:

 

[again with this]

It is- when the back of the rack looks like this: Though it is less blurry in person.

That is one heck of a rig. Maybe after I get the GCX, my rack will qualify as a rack. Right now, it's kinda just a head on steroids.

Most of the time for live gigs, I use this "Rig", or something similar:

Appropriate technology! But, you are a monster player and I need to rely heavily on my gear...

 

[again with this]

On a rack config related note; what do you use the fix misc. power converters to the inside sides?

I see in Zach's rig, there are some kind of bracket fixed to the top of the rack at a 90 degree angle to hold the "wall warts" into the top-most power conditioner...

Low tech solutions off the top of my head...

Velcro or some kind of maliable sheet metal strapping that can be fixed to the inside of the rack with screws.

OR... What I often do with phone stuff is use a grometed cable tie (or two to increase circumfrence) to grab and fix devices to a vertical surface with screws.

 

[Zachman]

On a rack config related note; what do you use the fix misc. power converters to the inside sides?

I see in Zach's rig, there are some kind of bracket fixed to the top of the rack at a 90 degree angle to hold the "wall warts" into the top-most power conditioner...

Low tech solutions off the top of my head...

Velcro or some kind of maliable sheet metal strapping that can be fixed to the inside of the rack with screws.

OR... What I often do with phone stuff is use a grometed cable tie (or two to increase circumfrence) to grab and fix devices to a vertical surface.

3M Dual Lock

 

[glpg80]

On a rack config related note; what do you use the fix misc. power converters to the inside sides?

I see in Zach's rig, there are some kind of bracket fixed to the top of the rack at a 90 degree angle to hold the "wall warts" into the top-most power conditioner...

Low tech solutions off the top of my head...

Velcro or some kind of maliable sheet metal strapping that can be fixed to the inside of the rack with screws.

OR... What I often do with phone stuff is use a grometed cable tie (or two to increase circumfrence) to grab and fix devices to a vertical surface.

3M Dual Lock

jesus christ

bitchin' rack

...any chance you can take another pic? ive been needing a new background

 

[glpg80]

The more I think of it the more I am sold on the FootSim. It does exactly what I need two TRS switchers. Two TRS cables and I am there. I am no longer depedant on the Gmajor for switching and can experiment with other effects units.

What midi controller (foot controller) are you going to use to trigger the Footsim? Remember, the Footsim does nothing by itself. It converts midi commands sent to it by something else (usually a foot controller) to trs switch commands to trigger your amp.

Steve

just the footsim converting midi interface to TRS for my amp doesnt involve level adjustments or cutting effects on and off simultaniously. im running a g-major as well. id like to have a clean, clean with chorus, lead, lead with boost (via footsim there) but also convert continuous control MIDI commands of switching through those same effects AS WELL AS my amp channel at once.

the amp gizmo will come with the midi interface cable and work on banks 0-1. so there are a total of like 256 pre-programable settings for effects as well as amp channels.

im not really the pedal type. never have been.. ever. i just have never found a pedal that i liked in front of my amplifier - even the claimed ts-808. everyone loves them but to me i liked my dry tone better without it.

if the footsim can do esentially that ^ then hell yeah ill get it and save $100. but it seemed more towards converting pedal chains. than strictly rack/amplifer use.

 

[Zachman]

On a rack config related note; what do you use the fix misc. power converters to the inside sides?

I see in Zach's rig, there are some kind of bracket fixed to the top of the rack at a 90 degree angle to hold the "wall warts" into the top-most power conditioner...

Low tech solutions off the top of my head...

Velcro or some kind of maliable sheet metal strapping that can be fixed to the inside of the rack with screws.

OR... What I often do with phone stuff is use a grometed cable tie (or two to increase circumfrence) to grab and fix devices to a vertical surface.

3M Dual Lock

jesus christ

bitchin' rack

...any chance you can take another pic? ive been needing a new background

Thanks...

Here are some other pics of the rig. The Eventide isn't in it because I am having it repaired at the factory. An inductor broke inside

The rig before I gave it a face lift:

FWIW, I have tons of other guy's rigs here:

http://s235.photobucket.com/albums/ee118/zachman_photos/

 

[again with this]

Just in case it got lost in the previous posts.

I am going to buy a GCX and I would prefer to buy from a forumite. Anybody selling one? New or used is fine.

If anybody here is a Voodoo Retialer... Let me know. I'd rather spend my money with you than Guitar Center.

Thanks!

 

[Zachman]

Just in case it got lost in the previous posts.

I am going to buy a GCX and I would prefer to buy from a forumite. Anybody selling one? New or used is fine.

If anybody here is a Voodoo Retialer... Let me know. I'd rather spend my money with you than Guitar Center.

Thanks!

Send me a PM... a close friend is a Dealer, and can get you one, if he doesn't have one in stock.

 

[again with this]

Just in case it got lost in the previous posts.

I am going to buy a GCX and I would prefer to buy from a forumite. Anybody selling one? New or used is fine.

If anybody here is a Voodoo Retialer... Let me know. I'd rather spend my money with you than Guitar Center.

Thanks!

Send me a PM... a close friend is a Dealer, and can get you one, if he doesn't have one in stock.

PM'd...