Can U Make a Bogner Front Loaded Uber Kab, Rear Loaded?

[WizardSouth-JP]

I have 2 Bogner 412's - 1 is the front loaded Uberkab (XPattern v30/G1275) the other is Read Loaded V30...they're close except for the speakers
I may get another Uberkab and replace the G1275's with Creambacks - maybe when recording the 2 cabs you'd notice a difference, not sure my old ears can hear much difference

 

[Moshaholic]

I have 2 Bogner 412's - 1 is the front loaded Uberkab (XPattern v30/G1275) the other is Read Loaded V30...they're close except for the speakers
I may get another Uberkab and replace the G1275's with Creambacks - maybe when recording the 2 cabs you'd notice a difference, not sure my old ears can hear much difference

It is definitely more brighter and not as smooth as the rear loaded uber cab I have.

Front loading puts the cone closer to you just lets you hear more of it.

I'm thinking if just dumping the cab and getting a mesa recto cab as well possibly...

 

[Moshaholic]

Be wary of the inserts that hold the screws. If they are T-nuts they need to be reversed to the front of the baffle.

THIS.

Where are those pictures from a few weeks ago, where the guy did that without changing them to the opposite side?
The T-nuts pulled out and the speakers fell into the bottom of the cab......REVERSE THEM.

actually, there's a way to rear-mount using the Tee nuts from front-mounting without reversing or removing the Tee nuts. (i tried to find a pic to post in that thread a few weeks ago but couldn't find one...)

here's the trick:

after you take the front-mounted speakers off, take the bolt or machine screw that was holding the speaker and screw it back into the Tee nut, from the front of the cab, all the way in, until the bolt or screw head hits the front face of the baffle board. (you could slip a washer onto the bolt before you do this, if you wanted to make sure the bolt head wouldn't dig into the wood.)

then, looking from the inside of the cab, you now have a threaded bolt spike sticking up from the back face of the baffle board. and it's held firmly in place because you screwed it hard into the Tee nut. you place the speaker down over the bolts, and screw on washers, lock washers, and nuts. (tightening them slowly and in an X pattern and not too tight, like Scumback guy has described in other posts.)

then you !

THIS!

You would need to make sure the bolts are long enough to get the nuts and washers to screw on from the inside...

I'm assuming they will most likely be sticking out far enough from the inside since there is nothing in the front side of the baffle stopping them from being screwed all the way in.

 

[_actual time_]

here's the trick:

after you take the front-mounted speakers off, take the bolt or machine screw that was holding the speaker and screw it back into the Tee nut, from the front of the cab, all the way in, until the bolt or screw head hits the front face of the baffle board.

THIS!

You would need to make sure the bolts are long enough to get the nuts and washers to screw on from the inside...

I'm assuming they will most likely be sticking out far enough from the inside since there is nothing in the front side of the baffle stopping them from being screwed all the way in.

yep, you need to check the length. and maybe skip adding the washer on the front face of the baffle.

in the cabs i've built, i've used 2" bolts, and they're definitely long enough. 1.25" would seem the min, since most baffles are 3/4" thick, and you probably need at least 1/2" to go through the speaker flange and get a nut onto the back.

i can't take credit for this trick. i saw it on ebay from a speaker parts store. then i for realizing that it would've saved me a ton of trouble on one of my cabs.