Finished another Charvel Nitro Clone

scottosan

scottosan

Well-known member
4a Musikraft aged oil pro mod profile 21 fret
Pre pro logo
MJT Nitro aged black roasted alder body with recessed Floyd route
Aged nickel German Floyd
Aged nickel schaller m6 mini
Aged JB/Jazz with Alinico 2 magnets in both
FU tone PMS (pickup mounting system) for direct mount pickups











 
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Looks great Scott! Love the Pre Pro look. I have an 84 neck/body (was parted out long ago, unfortunately) getting a refin/makeover to a Floyd right now. Originally a V trem, modded long ago to a Kahler. Solid Maple body, 1/4 inch thick Rosewood board on that classic pointy Charvel profile (wide flat thin radius). Can't wait for it to return.
 
Very sweet guitar with some cool features. How does that JB with A2 sound compared to a Jalen Franky (or whatever he calls his hot A2 pickup)?
 
Absolutely, absolutely beautiful. Killer Build! You should do the for forum members!
 
SpiderWars said:
Very sweet guitar with some cool features. How does that JB with A2 sound compared to a Jalen Franky (or whatever he calls his hot A2 pickup)?
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The JB is hotter. Most would assume the JB would sound compressed with an A2, but it has alot of clarity and no spike to my ears a more bouncy low end that plays nicely with maple necks.
The jazz with an A5 can be very clinical. The A2 softens it.
 
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scottosan said:
The JB is hotter. Most would assume the JB would sound compressed with an A2, but it has alot of clarity and no spike to my ears a more bouncy low end that plays nicely with maple necks.
The jazz with an A5 can be very clinical. The A2 softens it.
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The Jazz with an A2 is the Alnico II Pro.
 
Very Nice Scottosan!

Can I ask how you get your decal so transparent with no visible edges?

I have a hard time with the waterslides I've used in the past showing edges even after multiple topcoats of clear.
 
harddriver said:
Very Nice Scottosan!

Can I ask how you get your decal so transparent with no visible edges?

I have a hard time with the waterslides I've used in the past showing edges even after multiple topcoats of clear.
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I use a very unconventional method. The entire process only takes several hours. I do not wait for curing. Nitro is very easy to work with within the first few hours after application. I only work with it when humidity is below 50%. I use minwax clear satin lacquer from Lowe’s, which is nitrocellulose. I apply a few coats first with no decal, let dry to touch ~20 minutes. I then buff the area with a dry folded paper towel until the area is smoooth and shiny. I then put a few drops of water on the headstock so that I have a few seconds to adjust the decal when applying. Let dry for 15-20 min. I then do a light coat. Dry 15-20 min. I then do about 3 more even but more generous coats going several passes each coat. I then wet sand with 1000 grit using just the weight of my hand. You will see the edges, but less sharp. I then lightly sand the edges of the decal. It all about finesse. I will add a few more coats and repeat with 1000 and 1200-1500 grit. If you want really shiny, buff with a paper towel once dry. For a nice satin finish I use 1200 wet dry and when the headstock and paper start to dry, keep going and it will start to cloud like a satin finish. I’d you have shiny/cloudy spots , keep wet sanding as it’s not even yet. Buy some scrap wood and practice. I did it in an afternoon.

It really looks legit
https://youtube.com/shorts/ho_L7H8druc?feature=share
 
Badass! I dig everything about the look.
I'd love to check it out and compare it to the other one. Will be hard to to that one.
 
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