Floyd going sharp while sitting,

  • Thread starter Thread starter CoreyW
  • Start date Start date
Make sure the bolts holding the nut down the wood of the neck are tight. Also, under the saddles are three screws that hold the block, spring-plate and spacer to the baseplate. These can get loose after much use.

I have already tightened the nut bolts, neck bolts, intonation set screws. I have not removed it yet to check underneath that will be during next string change.


Rarely. 1 in a million. This is a claw problem.

I received it with 2 springs and the claw was about 1/2" from bottoming out, I went to 3 springs and loosened it a little to be able to use the bar, and that didnt improve the problem.
 
I have already tightened the nut bolts, neck bolts, intonation set screws. I have not removed it yet to check underneath that will be during next string change.




I received it with 2 springs and the claw was about 1/2" from bottoming out, I went to 3 springs and loosened it a little to be able to use the bar, and that didnt improve the problem.
The number of springs and the claws position is irrelevant. The string tension in front - AT PITCH- needs to match the spring tension in the rear. There’s literally two forces pulling against each other. If one overcomes the other the tuning won’t stick.
 
The number of springs and the claws position is irrelevant. The string tension in front - AT PITCH- needs to match the spring tension in the rear. There’s literally two forces pulling against each other. If one overcomes the other the tuning won’t stick.

Since the Floyd Rose is an over complicated modification of Fender Strat trem, I’ll use that since it’s the exact same principle.

A) these types of trems are designed to float and only work when they float. It’s on Leo Fenders patent.

If the plate comes into any resting contact with the body face, the string/spring synergy is gone and all bets off.

To accomplish this requires that a one side of the equation is fixed and then the other side is adjusted until it matches. To achieve this, sink the claws screws, then immobilize the bridge plate. I use a piece of flat 1.5mm bar stock. (See pic). Place the bar stock using the whammy bar to open the gap.

Tune to pitch.

With strings tuned and bridge plate parking braked, slowly back the claw screws out until the bar falls out. When the bite loosens enough for the bar to fall out, the springs and string tension should be close enough to use the fine tuners.

Since Floyd makers have gone to ridiculous lengths in to make it even more complicated by routing cavities, I actually whittled a small trapezoid block (see pic) that fits under the angle of the old flat body Floyd’s. Unfortunately it doesn’t fit newer Floyd’s but you can discern the intent. With new Floyd’s - creativity to achieve the same result is required.
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Assuming the floyd is set up properly another thing you can try is a different brand of the same guage strings. They have slightly different tensions based on the construction and there may be a sweet spot that you keep over and under-shooting with your current adjustments.

My truss rod seemed to lack the 'resolution' with the smallest turns when used with my preferred elixirs. I chose to stick with the flakiness of those strings because I prefer the lighter feel and it was mostly seasonal but a different set of strings with just a tad more tension kinda meshed with where the neck chose to settle. As a result it kept a solid tune despite the weather
 
Also if you havent already done a proper setup, get a tremblock off amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Shredneck-SN-TB-TremBlock/dp/B077GLN15R

Place it under the bridge such that it is level with the locking nut off and your fine tuners all the way out. If you believe this guitar will always go sharp adjust all the fine tuners in the same amount so they are about in the midpoint or ~25% in on their adjustment range otherwise set them 1-2 turns in

Once the fine tuners are set at a desired zero point that allows enough adjustment later and the bridge is level, tune to pitch with your normal tuners. Make sure the strings are thoroughly stretched and hold a tune after stretching.

Once you have a solid tune, in the playing position adjust the claw in or out until your low E string goes back in to tune. This should balance the tension and you should be able to look down and see that the bridge is level. Keep the nut off for a few days and see if it holds.
 
Also if you havent already done a proper setup, get a tremblock off amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Shredneck-SN-TB-TremBlock/dp/B077GLN15R

Place it under the bridge such that it is level with the locking nut off and your fine tuners all the way out. If you believe this guitar will always go sharp adjust all the fine tuners in the same amount so they are about in the midpoint or ~25% in on their adjustment range otherwise set them 1-2 turns in

Once the fine tuners are set at a desired zero point that allows enough adjustment later and the bridge is level, tune to pitch with your normal tuners. Make sure the strings are thoroughly stretched and hold a tune after stretching.

Once you have a solid tune, in the playing position adjust the claw in or out until your low E string goes back in to tune. This should balance the tension and you should be able to look down and see that the bridge is level. Keep the nut off for a few days and see if it holds.
The fine tuners are not part of the equation.
 
what do you mean? the point of this is to set them up for later
The fine tuners are a whole other complication. If the spring and string tension don’t match it’s just a pretty paperweight.
 
The fine tuners are a whole other complication. If the spring and string tension don’t match it’s just a pretty paperweight.
You're not understanding. Pre-setting the fine tuners puts them in a position to have enough adjustment left for the life of the strings and to compensate for a flexible neck once the nut is locked. This is not complicating anything it is making things much simpler and easier for you later.

The front to back tension balance once they are set is the same regardless of their position, what changes is minor adjustments in the tuning pegs to get to pitch. If you're not resetting your fine tuners with each string change you are making the whole thing harder.
 
You're not understanding. Pre-setting the fine tuners puts them in a position to have enough adjustment left for the life of the strings and to compensate for a flexible neck once the nut is locked. This is not complicating anything it is making things much simpler and easier for you later.

The front to back tension balance once they are set is the same regardless of their position, what changes is minor adjustments in the tuning pegs to get to pitch. If you're not resetting your fine tuners with each string change you are making the whole thing harder.
I see what you’re saying. A neutral middle position.
 
If the plate comes into any resting contact with the body face, the string/spring synergy is gone and all bets off.
It's cool you've been willing to help out with this but you keep referring to spring tension and string tension as if we're talking about a floating Floyd Rose setup. The EVH Wolfgang series doesn't have a floating Floyd. The bridge does in fact sit flat directly on the face/top of the body with zero room for pulling up on the bar. As shown, there's no routing underneath to allow it to float. Eddie wanted it decked with no room for pull-ups, thus keeping in better tune.

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The Standard series on the left has a flat top. The Special series on the right has an arched top with an ever-so-slight route just a couple of .mm down and only under the bridge plate space to allow for a true/flat area for mounting it on an otherwise arched top.
 
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Totally overlooked that :ROFLMAO:. Probably the neck then
Wolfgang decked Floyd's shouldn't float at all. While it can be done by lowering the posts and lifting the back of the bridge plate up with a combination of spring/string tension like a Strat bridge, it's not recommended and not at all how you should approach it.

The posts and bridge plate should be horizontally aligned with a perfect angle against the body while the plate is resting on it. Ideally you should have only enough spring tension to allow the bridge plate to land back snug tight against the body each time after a dive. That'll lead to easier dives with less effort.

The mention of a trem stop in the thread seems odd as it wouldn't have any affect. With a Wolfgang or any EVH Floyd equipped guitar, the guitar top itself is the built-in trem stop. There's no need for a little jig installed in/against the bottom cavity.

Other than the Steinberger on the 5150 album Eddie never pulled up, never much used it for the vibrato effect, he was always diving it. If you thought you were hearing a pull up he was probably starting with the bar dived then letting it up to the intended note. Here's a fun clip. Still miss him.

 
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It's cool you've been willing to help out with this but you keep referring to spring tension and string tension as if we're talking about a floating Floyd Rose setup. The EVH Wolfgang series doesn't have a floating Floyd. The bridge does in fact sit flat directly on the face/top of the body with zero room for pulling up on the bar. As shown, there's no routing underneath to allow it to float. Eddie wanted it decked with no room for pull-ups, thus keeping in better tune.

View attachment 431484View attachment 431485

The Standard series on the left has a flat top. The Special series on the right has an arched top with an ever-so-slight route just a couple of .mm down and only under the bridge plate space to allow for a true/flat area for mounting it on an otherwise arched top.
It doesn’t matter. The Floyd is in fact a modified Fender strat trem with fine tuners. It’s operates on the same floating principle as it and unless is floats it won’t work. There’s is a reason why they knife edge pivot on the pins. It’s not supposed to come to rest on the body. That’s why the lions share of them are now recessed into the body.
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It's cool you've been willing to help out with this but you keep referring to spring tension and string tension as if we're talking about a floating Floyd Rose setup. The EVH Wolfgang series doesn't have a floating Floyd. The bridge does in fact sit flat directly on the face/top of the body with zero room for pulling up on the bar. As shown, there's no routing underneath to allow it to float. Eddie wanted it decked with no room for pull-ups, thus keeping in better tune.

View attachment 431484
These a both floating. See the millimeter gap. That’s all it takes, but the plate cannot touch the body or its game over.
View attachment 431485

The Standard series on the left has a flat top. The Special series on the right has an arched top with an ever-so-slight route just a couple of .mm down and only under the bridge plate space to allow for a true/flat area for mounting it on an otherwise arched top.
 
These a both floating. See the millimeter gap. That’s all it takes, but the plate cannot touch the body or its game over.
Okay well we're not really helping with the issue, we're only going back and forth with each other. What I can tell you is that I own two Wolfgangs and they play wonderfully.

Both arrived and have the bridge plates landing firmly on the face of the guitar. Ed didn't want his Floyd to float, at all. So his guitars are designed and set up to not float, at all. Not even the slightest bit. You can't use a Dtuna on a floating Floyd. It needs that fixed point of a decked bridge to be able to drop accurately from E to D.

That's often a reason why people buy online and then return or sell their Wolfgang. You lose the ability for subtle vibrato effect and many players don't know that and don't dig it until they actually have it in their hands.
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Okay well we're not really helping with the issue, we're only going back and forth with each other. What I can tell you is that I own two Wolfgangs and they play wonderfully.

Both arrived and have the bridge plates landing firmly on the face of the guitar. Ed didn't want his Floyd to float, at all. So his guitars are designed and set up to not float, at all. Not even the slightest bit. You can't use a Dtuna on a floating Floyd. It needs that fixed point of a decked bridge to be able to drop accurately from E to D.

That's often a reason why people buy online and then return or sell their Wolfgang. You lose the ability for subtle vibrato effect and many players don't know that and don't dig it until they actually have it in their hands.
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You’re defaulting to chat gpt for this as if it has ever owned, played, and or serviced a guitar ever, and now it’s the new Floyd Rose authority…Hilarious. Come on. That’s just desperate at this point.

D-Tuna… another complication added on after the fact, but still doesn’t change the engineering, just makes the work even worse.
 
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You’re defaulting to chat gpt for this as if it has ever owned, played, and or serviced a guitar ever, and now it’s the new Floyd Rose authority…Hilarious. Come on. That’s just desperate at this point.

D-Tuna… another complication added on after the fact, but still doesn’t change the engineering, just makes the work even worse.
I believe I was quite clear with my own words, only using Chat to clarify and try to convince you of your ignorance on the matter. It's odd you think the Chat response is nonsense. As if it could be pre-programmed to bolster my words, and what is known as fact. Every word of that response is a fact. I'm certain you've never had a Wolfgang or a 5150 or any other EVH guitar in your hands to know what you're talking about, and there is no convincing you.

You seem to think because there's no routing underneath like a Strat bridge that it should at least be set up like a Strat, but you couldn't be more wrong. In your world it seems all Floyds should float and never touch the body. Cool, but in the real world they don't, and can't especially if equipped with a Dtuna. Anyone who's added a Dtuna to their floating Floyd must also add a trem stopper as well or it won't work. With EVH guitars that's unnecessary as it's decked from the top with the bridge plate absolutely resting on the top of the guitar body.

I also don't understand your thinking that a Floyd should never be in contact with the body. Fixed bridges are always in contact with the body.
 
I believe I was quite clear with my own words, only using Chat to clarify and try to convince you of your ignorance on the matter. It's odd you think the Chat response is nonsense. As if it could be pre-programmed to bolster my words, and what is known as fact. Every word of that response is a fact. I'm certain you've never had a Wolfgang or a 5150 or any other EVH guitar in your hands to know what you're talking about, and there is no convincing you.

You seem to think because there's no routing underneath like a Strat bridge that it should at least be set up like a Strat, but you couldn't be more wrong. In your world it seems all Floyds should float and never touch the body. Cool, but in the real world they don't, and can't especially if equipped with a Dtuna. Anyone who's added a Dtuna to their floating Floyd must also add a trem stopper as well or it won't work. With EVH guitars that's unnecessary as it's decked from the top with the bridge plate absolutely resting on the top of the guitar body.

I also don't understand your thinking that a Floyd should never be in contact with the body. Fixed bridges are always in contact with the body.
The chatbot has never play a guitar with a Floyd… it has no dog in this race. It farms the internet for other lousy illogical opinions and passes them off as gospel. And you fell for it with that “I’ll show that guy, the internet said it so it must be true” logic.

Actually I’ve owned several 1st year Wolfgang’s back when Ed was with PEAVEY, and multiple replicas that I built, and various other Floyd equipt instruments.
I’ve got a good handle on how these work including making tools to make them work better. The whole Floyd platform is built upon Leo Fenders synchronized floating trem. The engineering simply wasn’t designed to contact the face at zero. The patent clearly bears that out. I’m not ignoring that.

So really... who’s the ignorant one?

You remind me of the coach in Moneyball… Art Howe - Phillip Seymour Hoffmans character. The only thing worse than ignorance is arrogance.

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