I could be color blind but his PCB looks green and mine looks blue.
I could be color blind but his PCB looks green and mine looks blue.
I think you're right. IIRC Leib got the KT88 version.IIRC - Reinhold used different colored boards for different tube versions but don't quote me on that.
that was my exact first thought. my goodness all the crap in there lol
Nope I believe they have a pin from there to the top, allowing bias while inside the headshell, if I am not mistaken.^ it is quite versatile form what I've heard and honestly a cleaner layout than say a Dual Rectifier.
It looks like there are 2 - biasing variable resistors we can mess with. One for each pair. It almost looks like he cut out a section of PCB on that upper board to allow for a screwdriver to access the pot. There better not be two more under that board
![]()

Thanks, thats kind of the info im looking for.Those white ceramic 5W 1K wirewound power resistors numbered R890, R891, R892, R893 on the circuit board are your screen grid resistors for your power tubes, all 4 look fine with no discoloration or evidence that any of them burned. You should test them with a digital multimeter if possible but if you can't I don't see any obvious evidence of any failures there.
Unless you can test the power tubes that are in the amp, I would not try to run the amp until you have a new set of power tubes. From what you described in the Tech section it sounds like a power tube/tubes shorted or partial shorted out and probably took out the HT fuse. I hope you get things sorted out.
They look in tact.Those white ceramic 5W 1K wirewound power resistors numbered R890, R891, R892, R893 on the circuit board are your screen grid resistors for your power tubes, all 4 look fine with no discoloration or evidence that any of them burned. You should test them with a digital multimeter if possible but if you can't I don't see any obvious evidence of any failures there.
Unless you can test the power tubes that are in the amp, I would not try to run the amp until you have a new set of power tubes. From what you described in the Tech section it sounds like a power tube/tubes shorted or partial shorted out and probably took out the HT fuse. I hope you get things sorted out.


Yep those 4. If they had failed they can look tan or the actual solder joints can melt at the solder terminal on the circuit board and I don't see any evidence of burning or failure visually. Just from what you have described I think a new quad of power tubes and a new HT fuse probably will fix your situation. I've have had JJ's 6ca7's fail just like that and they were brand new.
I don't he has that capability Geo, and I think the amp is relatively new so it would probably go back to Bogner anyway and thank God Bogner stands behind it's amps and works on them for their customers.I would re flow the solder on all the tube sockets since they are so accessible.
May I suggest then that he takes a good close up look at them.I don't he has that capability Geo, and I think the amp is relatively new so it would probably go back to Bogner anyway.
Yeah any major repairs would be me talking to a tech here or mailing to Bogner.I don't he has that capability Geo, and I think the amp is relatively new so it would probably go back to Bogner anyway.
Since the amp is relatively new that's fully understandable. I don't like working on PCB amps myself.Yeah any major repairs would be me talking to a tech here or mailing to Bogner.
Ive soldered my own pickups, like an amateur. There's no way im soldering a $3k amp. Just not in my skill set