I want a Jubilee.. Should I?

[Goat]

They have a great taper on the MV, best of any production Marshall. The 2555x will also let you use any 4 or 2 different pairs of octal tubes, with outside (top of chassis) bias points. I ran 2 6550s with 2 6L6s for a while, then 4 KT88s. KT 90s went in next, and if you like the big tone of KT88s you'll love 4 KT 90s. Like the biggest baddest KT88 tone on the planet with EL34 mids. I say go for it.

The Silver Jubilee is the only Marshall amp I have not played, that I have a desire to try out. I think I would like them!!!!!!!!! Are the clipping LED's always on in the circuit??

Many say the diodes are always active. Looking at the schematic, the diodes appear to be switched-out when in 'clean' mode/preamp control in. If you pull the preamp knob out, the 1N4007 rhythm diodes become active. The LED/SS diode assemby operates in 'lead' mode only. That's what it looks to me anyway. Gain mode/preamp in is where that magical SJ lower midrange is. Pull the preamp out (in lead mode) to lift the lower mids for a more traditional JCM800 type sound.

 

[Goat]

So, the difference between vented and non-vented UK 75 may simply be, that some are fitted with a 444 (55Hz) bass cone, others with a 1777 (75 Hz) lead cone. Makes sense to me.

Yep, and if some folks claim they sound a lot warmer, to the point of maybe too warm, those would most likely be the 444 cones.

I found one review (I think it was on Marshall forum) that someone liked their 444 cone T75, so maybe the difference isn't as bad as with the K85's I had. I couldn't sell those quickly enough and I did warn the buyer by the way. It was the kind of smooth that may appeal to some semi-hollowbody jazz-type players, or maybe someone that wants to run a really fizzy, bright amp through it, but for general stuff, it was too much IMO.
But as I said, maybe the difference with the T75's isn't as big.

I once owned a Marshall 4x12 clone cabinet, with G12-80 speakers w/444 cones that sounded fabulous! Why I sold that cabinet is beyond my recollection.

 

[Marshall Freak]

So, the difference between vented and non-vented UK 75 may simply be, that some are fitted with a 444 (55Hz) bass cone, others with a 1777 (75 Hz) lead cone. Makes sense to me.

Yep, and if some folks claim they sound a lot warmer, to the point of maybe too warm, those would most likely be the 444 cones.

I found one review (I think it was on Marshall forum) that someone liked their 444 cone T75, so maybe the difference isn't as bad as with the K85's I had. I couldn't sell those quickly enough and I did warn the buyer by the way. It was the kind of smooth that may appeal to some semi-hollowbody jazz-type players, or maybe someone that wants to run a really fizzy, bright amp through it, but for general stuff, it was too much IMO.
But as I said, maybe the difference with the T75's isn't as big.

I once owned a Marshall 4x12 clone cabinet, with G12-80 speakers w/444 cones that sounded fabulous! Why I sold that cabinet is beyond my recollection.

I have an old marshall cabinet with marshall labeled g12-80s with 444 cones, and they do sound really good.

 

[Goat]

So, the difference between vented and non-vented UK 75 may simply be, that some are fitted with a 444 (55Hz) bass cone, others with a 1777 (75 Hz) lead cone. Makes sense to me.

Yep, and if some folks claim they sound a lot warmer, to the point of maybe too warm, those would most likely be the 444 cones.

I found one review (I think it was on Marshall forum) that someone liked their 444 cone T75, so maybe the difference isn't as bad as with the K85's I had. I couldn't sell those quickly enough and I did warn the buyer by the way. It was the kind of smooth that may appeal to some semi-hollowbody jazz-type players, or maybe someone that wants to run a really fizzy, bright amp through it, but for general stuff, it was too much IMO.
But as I said, maybe the difference with the T75's isn't as big.

I once owned a Marshall 4x12 clone cabinet, with G12-80 speakers w/444 cones that sounded fabulous! Why I sold that cabinet is beyond my recollection.

I have an old marshall cabinet with marshall labeled g12-80s with 444 cones, and they do sound really good.

I think they only made those for a couple of years. I tried to get my bud to sell me his... Reply; "It's never going to happen, man!"

 

[Racerxrated]

So, the difference between vented and non-vented UK 75 may simply be, that some are fitted with a 444 (55Hz) bass cone, others with a 1777 (75 Hz) lead cone. Makes sense to me.

Yep, and if some folks claim they sound a lot warmer, to the point of maybe too warm, those would most likely be the 444 cones.

I found one review (I think it was on Marshall forum) that someone liked their 444 cone T75, so maybe the difference isn't as bad as with the K85's I had. I couldn't sell those quickly enough and I did warn the buyer by the way. It was the kind of smooth that may appeal to some semi-hollowbody jazz-type players, or maybe someone that wants to run a really fizzy, bright amp through it, but for general stuff, it was too much IMO.
But as I said, maybe the difference with the T75's isn't as big.

I once owned a Marshall 4x12 clone cabinet, with G12-80 speakers w/444 cones that sounded fabulous! Why I sold that cabinet is beyond my recollection.

I have an old marshall cabinet with marshall labeled g12-80s with 444 cones, and they do sound really good.

I think they only made those for a couple of years. I tried to get my bud to sell me his... Reply; "It's never going to happen, man!"

There's an opinion out there that the bass cone versions of 65s/80s are not very good sounding...on the contrary; they sound just like 80s/65s with an extended low end range. You can find both of those in an early 80s 1935A/B bass cab. Killer for guitar too.

 

[Speeddemon]

There's an opinion out there that the bass cone versions of 65s/80s are not very good sounding...on the contrary; they sound just like 80s/65s with an extended low end range. You can find both of those in an early 80s 1935A/B bass cab. Killer for guitar too.

In the case of the K85's (which have plenty of lows with the 1777 cones to begin with), it doesn't extend the lows (much), it just robs it of all harmonic crunch in the higher mids and highs, leaving a tone as though you dialed back Treble and Presence considerably, beyond what would be useful for rock/metal guitar tones.

 

[Goat]

I believe the Hz rating relates to air resonance. 75Hz is darn close to low E... I would expect a 55Hz to have less boominess; depending on the cabinet.

 

[blackba]

They have a great taper on the MV, best of any production Marshall. The 2555x will also let you use any 4 or 2 different pairs of octal tubes, with outside (top of chassis) bias points. I ran 2 6550s with 2 6L6s for a while, then 4 KT88s. KT 90s went in next, and if you like the big tone of KT88s you'll love 4 KT 90s. Like the biggest baddest KT88 tone on the planet with EL34 mids. I say go for it.

The Silver Jubilee is the only Marshall amp I have not played, that I have a desire to try out. I think I would like them!!!!!!!!! Are the clipping LED's always on in the circuit??

Many say the diodes are always active. Looking at the schematic, the diodes appear to be switched-out when in 'clean' mode/preamp control in. If you pull the preamp knob out, the 1N4007 rhythm diodes become active. The LED/SS diode assemby operates in 'lead' mode only. That's what it looks to me anyway. Gain mode/preamp in is where that magical SJ lower midrange is. Pull the preamp out (in lead mode) to lift the lower mids for a more traditional JCM800 type sound.

You are correct, the diodes are only active in the rhythm clip mode or in the Lead mode. the clean mode has no diodes. I find it interesting that the Lead mode not only adds the LEDs, but also adds another 1/2 of the 12AX7 compared to the clean mode. I know that few people buy Marshalls for cleans, but the cleans on the jubilee are nice and in my experience the amp takes pedals well.

 

[Goat]

They have a great taper on the MV, best of any production Marshall. The 2555x will also let you use any 4 or 2 different pairs of octal tubes, with outside (top of chassis) bias points. I ran 2 6550s with 2 6L6s for a while, then 4 KT88s. KT 90s went in next, and if you like the big tone of KT88s you'll love 4 KT 90s. Like the biggest baddest KT88 tone on the planet with EL34 mids. I say go for it.

The Silver Jubilee is the only Marshall amp I have not played, that I have a desire to try out. I think I would like them!!!!!!!!! Are the clipping LED's always on in the circuit??

Many say the diodes are always active. Looking at the schematic, the diodes appear to be switched-out when in 'clean' mode/preamp control in. If you pull the preamp knob out, the 1N4007 rhythm diodes become active. The LED/SS diode assemby operates in 'lead' mode only. That's what it looks to me anyway. Gain mode/preamp in is where that magical SJ lower midrange is. Pull the preamp out (in lead mode) to lift the lower mids for a more traditional JCM800 type sound.

You are correct, the diodes are only active in the rhythm clip mode or in the Lead mode. the clean mode has no diodes. I find it interesting that the Lead mode not only adds the LEDs, but also adds another 1/2 of the 12AX7 compared to the clean mode. I know that few people buy Marshalls for cleans, but the cleans on the jubilee are nice and in my experience the amp takes pedals well.

Agreed. I like to max the master volume, and use the SJ (in clean mode) like a plexi.

 

[Monomyth]

I owned a 1987 100w jubilee half stack, it was the best stock marshall I've ever owned, sold on eBay in 2007 for 4k. Owned the RI a couple years back, wasn't even close.

 

[Racerxrated]

I owned a 1987 100w jubilee half stack, it was the best stock marshall I've ever owned, sold on eBay in 2007 for 4k. Owned the RI a couple years back, wasn't even close.

Big Jube fan...I've had a bunch of the 87s, and probably more of the black tolex 88-89 JCM 'Customs'..they continued to make them in regular JCM skin until they used all the parts up. All are killer..the early 87s had a little less low end than the later versions, I think the final preamp design change was in around 3000 or so. Not very noticeable though. But, I did have one RI 2555x and I had it side by side with my last original 2555 and they were identical until you REALLY pushed the volume up. Those original Dagnalls pulled away as the winner. Maybe I just had a good one?

Best production Marshall to me as well...for the style I like. Throw a boost or 2 in front and you can play anything....with a nice clean channel too.

 

[Goat]

I owned a 1987 100w jubilee half stack. It was the best stock marshall I've ever owned. I owned the RI a couple years back... wasn't even close.

I've heard the same thing from many people.

 

[Marshall Freak]

One of the jubilee I had, a LONG time ago. Bought the halfstack for 900, also sold it when the prices went through the roof. Just couldnt justify keeping it. it was awesome. Original owner had it in his parents basement for 12 years.

I'd love to try out a reissue.. heard both ways about them. I do like my 2525c jubilee combo quite a bit.

 

[Racerxrated]

The way to run these, is with the output master at 6 or more. Bring lead master up to taste. If you want the clean clean, leave the Rhythm clip in ie don’t engage the pull boost. A little less hair but a pedal makes up for that.
I always ran my output maxed..still had a decent taper.

 

[blackba]

The way to run these, is with the output master at 6 or more. Bring lead master up to taste. If you want the clean clean, leave the Rhythm clip in ie don’t engage the pull boost. A little less hair but a pedal makes up for that.
I always ran my output maxed..still had a decent taper.

A big +1 to this. A while back I looked into why this was and found that the output master was later in the circuit than the lead master, so by pushing it up you are driving the power amp harder and that smooths the whole amp out.

 

[Goat]

I'm looking at the SJ drawings. VR1 toggles between the L & R diodes... I don't see where 1/2 of V2 is switched-out with the lead clipping diodes. V2a is positioned post-clipping. Both the lead and rhythm diodes feed into the V2a grid. They switch between each other, but that's all I'm seeing. V2b plate drives the tone stack. By the status of the diode switch-legs, I'll assume the drawing shows the circuit in 'clean' mode?

The tandem bass pot is interesting, though I don't know exactly what it's doing? It appears to be controlling an additional .1u coupling cap. I've never seen a tandem tone control before. The Silver Jubilee has the most musical sounding bottom-end of any Marshall I've ever played through.

 

[blackba]

I'm looking at the SJ drawings. VR1 toggles between the L & R diodes... I don't see where 1/2 of V2 is switched-out with the lead clipping diodes. V2a is positioned post-clipping. Both the lead and rhythm diodes feed into the V2a grid. They switch between each other, but that's all I'm seeing. V2b plate drives the tone stack. By the status of the diode switch-legs, I'll assume the drawing shows the circuit in 'clean' mode?

The tandem bass pot is interesting, though I don't know exactly what it's doing? It appears to be controlling an additional .1u coupling cap. I've never seen a tandem tone control before. The Silver Jubilee has the most musical sounding bottom-end of any Marshall I've ever played through.

When I had looked it before it looked like V1B was not used in the clean channel, but looking at it again I think you are correct that V1B is always used. I think R6 and the switch through me off the first time looking at it.

 

[Goat]

I'm looking at the SJ drawings. VR1 toggles between the L & R diodes... I don't see where 1/2 of V2 is switched-out with the lead clipping diodes. V2a is positioned post-clipping. Both the lead and rhythm diodes feed into the V2a grid. They switch between each other, but that's all I'm seeing. V2b plate drives the tone stack. By the status of the diode switch-legs, I'll assume the drawing shows the circuit in 'clean' mode?

The tandem bass pot is interesting, though I don't know exactly what it's doing? It appears to be controlling an additional .1u coupling cap. I've never seen a tandem tone control before. The Silver Jubilee has the most musical sounding bottom-end of any Marshall I've ever played through.

When I had looked it before it looked like V1B was not used in the clean channel, but looking at it again I think you are correct that V1B is always used. I think R6 and the switch through me off the first time looking at it.

You may be right afterall. V1a/V1b outputs in-parallel w/reduced (blocked) 2nd stage signal in 'clean' mode? I'm lost here... Need a tech to chime-in.