Ah I've not tried any Duels. I've got a 1995 SuperDrive 60 and 2017 SuperDrive 100. Maybe that's why some say they're so dark and smooth. I always keep the bite on and imo it's not that dark of an amp with it. With the SD60 I like sometimes also without the bite and presence and treble both dimed, but usually just keep the bite on. Anyway, one of my favorite amps for gain
He can move the bite sw on the Duel to affect the dirty ch instead of the clean or so that affects both. On the Duel, I believe stock is that it affects clean only. He also has other upgrade options, at least he did when I was inquiring back in May.
H - HI DRIVE – An added gain stage beyond the normal Naylor gain stages for creating very heavy distortion. H+ Includes a foot switch for in and out and or a Hi Drive Gain Control
J - FULL POWER HALF POWER SWITCH – Drops two of the output tubes in the circuit therefore dropping the output power to half. With the Naylor Half Power switch you do not need to change the speaker impedance switch on the amp to compensate for the loss of the two tubes as the circuit mimic’s that the tubes are still connected to the output transformer.
K - BANDWIDTH CONTROL – A 6 position switch that controls the bandwidth of the signal in the clean or dirty channel of any amp. Control is from 1 to 6 with the number 2 position with the dot being the normal position (no change in the circuit) Position 1 is very full and thick, as you go down to 6 the sound begins to thin out and become less full causing the mid-range and hi end to become glassy and very clear.
L - DENSITY CONTROL – A variable control which adds some very low end to the output section of the amp. Its control is most notable on the low E string and is just slightly interactive with the Presence control on the front of the amp.
M - SPIKE SWITCH – A mid to hi range boost switch that can create massive gain at lower volume levels. If used at higher volumes it can create a lot of fret squeal and feedback oscillations in the pre amp circuit that may not be pleasant sounding to some people. (Can create monster metal sounds)
N - SEND LEVEL CONTROL – Adjusts the send level (Line level 1 volt) of the FX Loop to avoid clipping the input of some effects pedals. If needed then adjust your pedals output to make up for the gain loss created to avoid clipping the input of the pedal. If no pedal is in the FX Loop or you do not need to use the level control keep it at full volume to preserve the gain of the pre amp circuit. (Some pedals do not need this adjustment)
O - RETURN LEVEL CONTROL – Adjusts the return level of the FX Loop to make up for any loss in gain created by pedals, the send level control or other equipment in the FX Loop. Can also be used as a gain boost if used with the FX Loop switch.
P - PARALLEL FX LOOP WITH MIX CONTROL – A parallel FX Loop as opposed to the normal series FX Loop which has a mix control that gradually blends in the wet signal to the pre amp circuit. Q – FIXED BIAS / CATHODE BIAS SWITCH – A switch located on the rear control panel which controls the output tube biasing options. FIXED BIAS is the standard Naylor biasing that gives you an adjustment pot that you can use to set the bias of the output tubes to just about any bias level required for that set of tubes (you can set the bias Cold Medium or Hot depending on how you like to run your output tubes) CATHODE BIAS uses a cathode bias resister to automatically set the bias of the output tubes according to their particular needs at the voltages the output circuit is running at. (the bias is set automatically, no user adjustment required) Some of the tonal differences between Fixed and Cathode Biasing: Cathode biasing will compress more and (appear to) sustain longer... it sings. Fixed biasing will not induce the same amount of compression as there is less recovery or sag going on in the tubes. Cathode biased amps generally get less wattage out of the same set of tubes than fixed bias amps. So they seem to break up earlier. The bias of cathode biased amps is generally not adjusted, they are considered self-biasing and so you don't need to re-bias when you change power tubes. Cathode biased amps appear to have a softer feel - more compression, more sag or seem to have more give. Fixed bias amps tend to stay cleaner longer. They have a tighter sound. Contrary to what you might believe from the name, they need to be re-biased when you change tubes.
R – PENTODE / TRIODE SWITCH – A switch located on the rear control panel which allows switching the operation of the output tubes. PENTODE OPERATION is the normal Naylor setup and tone. TRIODE OPERATION is a new option available for a little tonal difference in the amp. A quick run-down on each mode: Pentode mode: Not very linear, high output impedance, lots of gain, highest power / efficiency, easy to drive.....Pentode sounds loud and punchy with great headroom. Triode mode: Very linear, only about 1/3rd the power of pentode mode, lowest output impedance, not much gain, harder / hard to drive due to high input capacitance and low gain. Triode is more vintage and warm with a thicker midrange and is mushier or less articulate. The amp won't be half as loud, but will break up sooner and smoother in triode mode.
S – BITE + – The normal bite switch operation on the Duel amps is moved from the Clean Channel to the Dirty Channel or both the Clean and Dirty Channels.
