fuzzyguitars
Active member
So cool. Are these point to point?
NorCal_Val
Well-known member
Fuck yes.
Better start saving my pennies
Better start saving my pennies
P
pipboy90
Well-known member
Nevermind, it’s an eyelet board as Jason says below.
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burger
Well-known member
Eyelet board, not point to point
PDC
Well-known member
All these improvements and still no loop for time based effects.
If I had the coin, I’d throw it at the Metro-Plex Mk-II.
If I had the coin, I’d throw it at the Metro-Plex Mk-II.
CarlF
Well-known member
Finally! These are the mods on Pete Thorn's SL68.
More traditional Plexi sounds found with these amps than the Metro-Plex. I owned a Super-Plex and couldn't get rid of it fast enough.
More traditional Plexi sounds found with these amps than the Metro-Plex. I owned a Super-Plex and couldn't get rid of it fast enough.
tallcoolone
Well-known member
I’ve heard from several owners that these Suhr amps are less ‘brash’ and more ‘polite’ than Marshalls and it has something to do with the fact that he removes the traditional bright cap. As someone who never can get enough bite and/or high end removing a ‘bright cap’ has always sounded like a bad idea to me. Any truth to this?
technomancer
Well-known member
What volume were these people playing at? If you're turning things up the bright cap drops out of the circuit and makes zero difference.
These now have a switch to put the bright cap back in and other switches to enable / disable anything people think of as "not stock Marshall". So basically there is zero difference now between this and a "normal" plexi depending on how you set the switches.
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CarlF
Well-known member
I did it to a Marshall 1959HW and regretted it. I also had a Suhr SL68 which had no Bright Cap and found it dull. Raising the Treble and Presence doesn't sound the same as having a Bright Cap in there.
Dave L
Well-known member
Yeah, the bright cap out is mostly for people using distortion pedals or want smoother, cleaner tones at low volume. That huge 4700pf cap you see in the 70s Marshalls basically is an on-off switch, unless the volume more or less is off you´re suddenly full Judas Priest and too loud for your gig... and you need to keep going as well to get some low end back. By 7-8 or so the cap is out of the equation, but that is an alarming level on anything resembling a 50 or 100w Super Lead.
Lots of variations in between 4700 and none, of course, but what you need really depends where on the volume dial you spend most of your time. The advent of loadboxes and IRs have really brought those actual cranked Super Leads back into fashion, and with that the big bright caps are more viable again as well.
Lots of variations in between 4700 and none, of course, but what you need really depends where on the volume dial you spend most of your time. The advent of loadboxes and IRs have really brought those actual cranked Super Leads back into fashion, and with that the big bright caps are more viable again as well.
TheGreatGreen
Well-known member
Unlike modern amps that generate most of their distortion in the preamp tubes, effects loops are pointless on amps that generate distortion at the phase inverter and/or power tubes, which is what a Plexi does. You can't put an effects loop between the phase inverter and power tubes. Routing effects through an effects loop on a Plexi would sound the same as routing the effects straight into the front.
There is zero point in adding an effects loop to a Plexi.
The bright cap is really cool though. It just allows the all the treble to bypass the volume control, meaning you'll get a lot more clear distortion and harmonics out of the amp while being able to better control the flub and bottom end. Enabling the bright control will make the amp tighter, and disabling the bright cap will let you get warmer and more vintage sounds out of the amp.
Seems like a really cool update to me.
tallcoolone
Well-known member
I’m not sure but I run my NMV amps at around 11:00 and I want the bright cap in there. Sounds like the OG Suhr’s took it out which many people did not like.
Agreed—and a much needed one
C
Cless357
Member
What does the mid boost switch ? Tone stack lift ? 50k mid pot value ?
H
harddriver
Well-known member
Yes................................... removing the 5000pf bright cap will neuter the amps crunch and aggression as many of you have noticed. I always prefer the bright cap to no bright cap in a Marshall plexi/Super Lead circuit. It doesn't sound bad without it but it is noticeable up to about 7 on the bright channel volume after that there is less of an effect.
I wonder if Suhr has come up with something different from the standard LAR/MAR PPIMV for a master volume?
K
kennedy515011
Member
Here is a video of the new amp.
PDC
Well-known member
I am aware of this limitation - I actually own Mark Abrahamian’s #2 Ground up ‘Rockstah’ build utilizing a Metro chassis. When I acquired the amp, I sent it to George to confirm that it was in fact one of Mark’s builds (it is) and had George give it a full check-up. I discussed the loop issue with him and he actually put a Zero-Loss loop in that amp for me and put it after the gain stages - but before the phase inverter. If I slam the front end of the amp, I do get some harsh artifacts with any time based FX in the loop. But if I keep the gain settings at around 3:00 (around 8 as opposed to 10) the FX sound surprisingly clean through the loop. I actually prefer running the head this way - at stage volume, it gives me a terrific heavy crunch rhythm sound that actually has enough gas for leads - then with something like a TC Spark out front for leads, its absolutely killer - with the time FX in the loop staying workably clean sounding.
I guess I am just surprised at how George can get such an effective Master Volume - all at the front end of the amp - with his Metroplex builds without relying on the phase inverter the way the SL Suhrs and Bray amps do.