New JCM Modified Video: What's the Tight Switch do?

FourT6and2 said:
Nobody knows exactly what the tight switch does at this point. But it could be any number of things, as already mentioned. Switching out a cathode bypass cap, or switching some sort of voltage divider, or high-pass filter, or whatever. Either way, I'm pretty sure it's super simple and easy to implement. You'll just have to wait for someone to buy one and then post photos.
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I guess this doesn't help...
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Tone Monster said:
FOURTEEN years ago? That would be minimum double these days.
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Around that time (maybe early 2010’s) I had asked Dave about the price of the kitchen sink mods and he had said 800$. (Not including shipping). Whether Dan got more done than that, I don’t know. Considering how good those Marshall’s were sounding back then it would have been money well spent.
 
skoora said:
Around that time (maybe early 2010’s) I had asked Dave about the price of the kitchen sink mods and he had said 800$. (Not including shipping). Whether Dan got more done than that, I don’t know. Considering how good those Marshall’s were sounding back then it would have been money well spent.
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Nice
 
Where the switch is located on the front panel might be a clue. They’re not putting anything NFB-related near the input jacks and they’re not switching a preamp cathode bypass cap down by the Presence.
 
SpiderWars said:
Where the switch is located on the front panel might be a clue. They’re not putting anything NFB-related near the input jacks and they’re not switching a preamp cathode bypass cap down by the Presence.
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Well there are no switches by the presence/NFB circuit. And the Tight switch is between the gain and master. So it's most likely either a coupling cap or cathode bypass cap. Neither are super secret mojo sauce "mods". As far which stage gets switched, if it's a coupler, I've had better results with 0.0022uF in the second stage, rather than the first.
 
FourT6and2 said:
Well there are no switches by the presence/NFB circuit. And the Tight switch is between the gain and master. So it's most likely either a coupling cap or cathode bypass cap. Neither are super secret mojo sauce "mods". As far which stage gets switched, if it's a coupler, I've had better results with 0.0022uF in the second stage, rather than the first.
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That sounds about right and I agree. And regarding the couplers I think a lot depends on the plate resistor. With typical loads a 330k plate is going to already limit bandwidth so a 2n2 coupler can get pretty nasally. Where a 100k plate and 22n has quite a lot of low end.
 
I was gassing pretty hard for the 1959HW Modified... but after seeing the preorder dates kept getting pushed back, I found a 1959HW and had a master volume and bright cap switch modded into it. I really dug the Andertons and TPS videos on it.
 
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