Speaker wire recommendations

[Music&Chaos]

Hey RT,

I am redoing the wiring inside my cabinet. What currently is in there came from a friend. One of them feel fine but the other....something is weird with that wire man, I can tell by the way it is when you work with it and try to solder with it.

So,

Any recommendations? I am going with the heaviest gauge possible.

I found this cable, and it looks pretty good overall: https://skyhighcaraudio.com/sky-hig...Kf3rQVd7gAsM41liTmJ3d_z0e6Sll4yzL7_DBjM&gQT=1

 

[FourT6and2]

I would suggest not going with the heaviest gauge possible lol. It's a pain to solder to the tabs and it's unnecessary. 14 AWG is fine. Hell, 16 works great too. What gauge is the amp-to-cab cable? Anything thicker than that isn't needed.

 

[Music&Chaos]

I would suggest not going with the heaviest gauge possible lol. It's a pain to solder to the tabs and it's unnecessary. 14 AWG is fine. Hell, 16 works great too. What gauge is the amp-to-cab cable? Anything thicker than that isn't needed.

Amp to cab is a 12 gauge cable, so I was going to be consistent, if possible.

 

[Music&Chaos]

I can also just throw speaker connection tips on it for the speakers themselves and crimp them I guess. Theoretically the same with the output jack I guess if I didn't want to solder it.

Or use the crimp and solder it onto the cable and crimp and solder that onto the jack.

Hm ......

 

[Scumback Speakers]

I'd go with 16 gauge copper stranded automotive or zip wire. You can get it in red & black to make it easy to follow.

 

[Music&Chaos]

I'd go with 16 gauge copper stranded automotive or zip wire. You can get it in red & black to make it easy to follow.

Thanks for the gauge recommendation! 12 was definitely too thick for inside the cabinet. 16 should do the trick I would imagine, though I feel tempted to see if I could push it with 14. If I wanted to try to go straight copper to terminal connecitons, the 14 would probably be too large as compared to the 16. Decisions, decisions.

 

[Music&Chaos]

I went with 16g OFC automotive wire. Thanks again!

 

[Exo-metal]

Lamp cordage works quite well.

 

[D-Rock]

Lamp cordage works quite well.

Made a speaker cable with neutrik jacks from a lamp cord back in the day.

 

[Smash]

https://a.co/d/4iN9UXk

I now have redbacks in the cab. But i read that 12 gauge had performed better in snakeoil tests, so I said fuck it.

I soldered them to speaker tabs, and then the jack. The jack is tricky with that thick of wiring, but i made it happen.

 

[Music&Chaos]

https://a.co/d/4iN9UXk

View attachment 419272

I now have redbacks in the cab. But i read that 12 gauge had performed better in snakeoil tests, so I said fuck it.

I soldered them to speaker tabs, and then the jack. The jack is tricky with that thick of wiring, but i made it happen.

See, this is also what I am thinking of doing.

I went with the 16 for now, as was recommended, due to that being what is currently in my rig.

I want to check the tonal differences between that old cable and the new, so the same gauge will work well for that.

I may make a harness out of 12g in the future for testing. Thank you for sharing this, as I was thinking I would have to add tabs, etc.

What jack did you use specifically? Cliff, Switchcraft #11, etc??

 

[Exo-metal]

https://a.co/d/4iN9UXk

View attachment 419272

I now have redbacks in the cab. But i read that 12 gauge had performed better in snakeoil tests, so I said fuck it.

I soldered them to speaker tabs, and then the jack. The jack is tricky with that thick of wiring, but i made it happen.

What cab is that, the brace looks beef. Gives me an idea to use dual lock on the center post on my Marshall cabs.

 

[thegame]

What cab is that, the brace looks beef. Gives me an idea to use dual lock on the center post on my Marshall cabs.

Mills acoustics. The Cameron of cabinet builders

 

[Smash]

What cab is that, the brace looks beef. Gives me an idea to use dual lock on the center post on my Marshall cabs.

Mills acoustic afterburner

 

[Shreddy Mercury]

If you want maximum tone transfer, you need solid billets of copper welded to the speakers. It's the only way.

 

[Music&Chaos]

If you want maximum tone transfer, you need solid billets of copper welded to the speakers. It's the only way.

Ah, you know me well.

 

[FourT6and2]

If you want maximum tone transfer, you need solid billets of copper welded to the speakers. It's the only way.

Titanium is better. As it heats up, it changes color. So you know you're truly shredding hard when the wire turns blue-purple.

 

[Smash]

See, this is also what I am thinking of doing.

I went with the 16 for now, as was recommended, due to that being what is currently in my rig.

I want to check the tonal differences between that old cable and the new, so the same gauge will work well for that.

I may make a harness out of 12g in the future for testing. Thank you for sharing this, as I was thinking I would have to add tabs, etc.

What jack did you use specifically? Cliff, Switchcraft #11, etc??

https://a.co/d/iUK8vqa

I believe this one

 

[Hiwatts-n-Gibsons]

I would suggest not going with the heaviest gauge possible lol. It's a pain to solder to the tabs and it's unnecessary. 14 AWG is fine. Hell, 16 works great too. What gauge is the amp-to-cab cable? Anything thicker than that isn't needed.

A whole lot of this. The thicker it is the more you have to strip off prior to tinning your leads for jacks and terminal tags.

 

[Luca79]

I rewired a cab various times, and prefer thicker cables. I think Bogner also use big cables in their cabs. There was a thread on HRI by RACKDOCTOR, if i remember correctly.