A
Anonymous
Guest
This is great stuff, Olaf! Once again, I'll spend more time tonight! Who makes the enclosure you are using for the footswitch and what model is it?
Steve
Steve
duesentrieb
Well-known member
http://www.hammondmfg.com
http://www.hammondmfg.com/dwg.htm
I guess a big but still "flat" is called "J" or "JJ" - some part sellers also have chinese stuff already painted in fancy colors . . .
You need one a bit wider than these . . .
http://www.hammondmfg.com/dwg.htm
I guess a big but still "flat" is called "J" or "JJ" - some part sellers also have chinese stuff already painted in fancy colors . . .
You need one a bit wider than these . . .
A
Anonymous
Guest
duesentrieb":3ttxsd56 said:Look at the manual switch (which you should install too
Oh, btw, how would I hook up both a manual switch and a relay? Hmmm.....
Steve
duesentrieb
Well-known member
The manual switch has three PINs. Two for the relays, one for ground.sah5150":1wub3jiy said:duesentrieb":1wub3jiy said:Look at the manual switch (which you should install too
Oh, btw, how would I hook up both a manual switch and a relay? Hmmm.....
Steve
You just run additional (parallel) wires from the manual to the 5-PIN (=3), then add the pwr supply (4) and the fifth is for the loop relay (5).
A
Anonymous
Guest
Are you talking about a standard DPDT manual switch? I'm not following you here... I thought you were saying I should have both manual DPDT switches and the relays so that someone could switch sounds without the footswitch by walking up to the amp and flipping a manual DPDT switch... I'm sorry man - I'm a little slow here...duesentrieb":tf3l0vli said:The manual switch has three PINs. Two for the relays, one for ground.sah5150":tf3l0vli said:duesentrieb":tf3l0vli said:Look at the manual switch (which you should install too
Oh, btw, how would I hook up both a manual switch and a relay? Hmmm.....
Steve
You just run additional (parallel) wires from the manual to the 5-PIN (=3), then add the pwr supply (4) and the fifth is for the loop relay (5).
Steve
duesentrieb
Well-known member
You can have both: manual switch and footswitch, Steve.
Firstly the manual switch is wired, the footswitch (or better the 5 PN jack) is just wired parallel to the manual switch(es) and get additionally a 5-6V supply (for the relays of the footswitch and LEDs inside the footswitch). That goes for all relays - you need three:
one for plexi/800s
one for 800s/Jose
one for the loop.
The manual switch layout is shown on my piece of paper - I will add the midi-jack to the final version then.
Solved?
Firstly the manual switch is wired, the footswitch (or better the 5 PN jack) is just wired parallel to the manual switch(es) and get additionally a 5-6V supply (for the relays of the footswitch and LEDs inside the footswitch). That goes for all relays - you need three:
one for plexi/800s
one for 800s/Jose
one for the loop.
The manual switch layout is shown on my piece of paper - I will add the midi-jack to the final version then.
Solved?
A
Anonymous
Guest
duesentrieb":8lbpndij said:
Yes. Got it! Thanks!
Steve
A
Anonymous
Guest
Olaf -
More progress... The way I see it, I need 6 relays to do what I want:
2 relays to switch the extra gain stage and gain pots for the "plex mode" and "rod mode" in and out of the circuit
2 relays to switch the Jose master (I call it Zen Master) in and out of the circuit - one switches the Jose master into the circuit and the other bypasses both mode masters.
1 relay to switch between the mode masters
1 relay to switch the effects loop on and off
This is mainly due to the placement of the mode masters and the Jose master. With manual switches, this is easy to setup. Not sure how to achieve the same thing with the footswitch. Even if I used a 7 pin midi cable, I'd still need 1 extra pin for the effects loop... Hmmmm...
To get an idea of what I'm talking about, look at this diagram:
I'll post updated schematics with the manual switches and relays ASAP... I've been working on them but not quite done yet...
Let me know what you think...
Steve
More progress... The way I see it, I need 6 relays to do what I want:
2 relays to switch the extra gain stage and gain pots for the "plex mode" and "rod mode" in and out of the circuit
2 relays to switch the Jose master (I call it Zen Master) in and out of the circuit - one switches the Jose master into the circuit and the other bypasses both mode masters.
1 relay to switch between the mode masters
1 relay to switch the effects loop on and off
This is mainly due to the placement of the mode masters and the Jose master. With manual switches, this is easy to setup. Not sure how to achieve the same thing with the footswitch. Even if I used a 7 pin midi cable, I'd still need 1 extra pin for the effects loop... Hmmmm...
To get an idea of what I'm talking about, look at this diagram:
I'll post updated schematics with the manual switches and relays ASAP... I've been working on them but not quite done yet...
Let me know what you think...
Steve
duesentrieb
Well-known member
You're an artist, Steve.
Looks great. But thinking of where to place the relays, I'd "neighbour" the master- and gainpots for the two modes Plexi&800s (gain/gain - master/master).
Put them side by side - you can either switch their outs or shunt them to ground with the relay. Less wire - less probs with noise, you know . . .
Also the LEDs should be either on top or bottom of the panel. My experience tells me that the supply for them shouldn't be too close to any wire carrying signals, you know . . .
Looks great. But thinking of where to place the relays, I'd "neighbour" the master- and gainpots for the two modes Plexi&800s (gain/gain - master/master).
Put them side by side - you can either switch their outs or shunt them to ground with the relay. Less wire - less probs with noise, you know . . .
Also the LEDs should be either on top or bottom of the panel. My experience tells me that the supply for them shouldn't be too close to any wire carrying signals, you know . . .
duesentrieb
Well-known member
Here's a pic for ya, Steve.
On top you see the principal wiring. Off the first CC you go into one side of the relay, which switches between Plexi/800s.
The Plexi line is directly hooked to the 470k/470pF combination in front of V2A. The 800s line is going thru the full circuit.
Now there will be one problem: if Plexi is active, V1B will create some noise, so either you shunt the grounds of the gainpots to ground (by using a double relay and wire them vice versa) or (thats what I do) use a VTL5C1 opto-coupler (used by Fender, Soldano, Bogner) to put the unused triode after its gainpot (or behind the 68k) to ground.
Since you will be switching the relay's "-" (= ground), you can simultanously switch the VTLs "-" (just run the "-" parallel).
Calculating the VTL:
(supplyvoltage V -1.65 V) /30 mA = R in front of "+" of the VTL - assuming its 6V
6-1.65/30 = 145 Ohm
ok?
The lower part shows that also simult. with the relay for the "input" (upper sheet) you can switch the masters for each "channel". Run the inputs of the pots in parallel and switch their outputs.
On top you see the principal wiring. Off the first CC you go into one side of the relay, which switches between Plexi/800s.
The Plexi line is directly hooked to the 470k/470pF combination in front of V2A. The 800s line is going thru the full circuit.
Now there will be one problem: if Plexi is active, V1B will create some noise, so either you shunt the grounds of the gainpots to ground (by using a double relay and wire them vice versa) or (thats what I do) use a VTL5C1 opto-coupler (used by Fender, Soldano, Bogner) to put the unused triode after its gainpot (or behind the 68k) to ground.
Since you will be switching the relay's "-" (= ground), you can simultanously switch the VTLs "-" (just run the "-" parallel).
Calculating the VTL:
(supplyvoltage V -1.65 V) /30 mA = R in front of "+" of the VTL - assuming its 6V
6-1.65/30 = 145 Ohm
ok?
The lower part shows that also simult. with the relay for the "input" (upper sheet) you can switch the masters for each "channel". Run the inputs of the pots in parallel and switch their outputs.
Attachments
duesentrieb
Well-known member
Now some little problems (you've expected them, didn't you? )
With your "Masters" after the loop and two (not speaking about the Jose mod yet) completely (levelwise) different channels, you will probably run into problems when your loop is "on". Because the input of the FX unit will see two (probably extremely) different levels - thats why normally one would place your "masters" in front of the loop (then they will act as send level masters) and put an additional Global-Master (GM) after the whole loop stuff.
If you decide to do that you could run an extra relay (simul. to the loop bypass relay) for the global master and take the GM out of the circuitry when the loop is bypassed, you know . . .
)With your "Masters" after the loop and two (not speaking about the Jose mod yet) completely (levelwise) different channels, you will probably run into problems when your loop is "on". Because the input of the FX unit will see two (probably extremely) different levels - thats why normally one would place your "masters" in front of the loop (then they will act as send level masters) and put an additional Global-Master (GM) after the whole loop stuff.
If you decide to do that you could run an extra relay (simul. to the loop bypass relay) for the global master and take the GM out of the circuitry when the loop is bypassed, you know . . .
duesentrieb
Well-known member
On a side not: if you should decide that a bigger chassis would be fine for you (if you don't have one yet),
here's the full schem for a Plexi/800s amp done by Marc Müller - with loop, deep and stuff . . .
here's the full schem for a Plexi/800s amp done by Marc Müller - with loop, deep and stuff . . .
duesentrieb
Well-known member
duesentrieb
Well-known member
duesentrieb
Well-known member
duesentrieb
Well-known member
Oh, one remark: when I'm hand-writing my "n" looks like an "u" - the caps I've drawn are 22nF of course - and the cathodes are XY µF - sorry for the confusion
duesentrieb
Well-known member
Now lets make a principal flow diagram, Steve. If I understood correctly your Jose will be active when you're running with three gainstages, right?
Look at the schem . . .
2A and 2B and 2C switched: Jose (one double, one single relay)
1A and 1B switched, VTL also: Plex (means you just need a double pole relay)
2 C shunts the 800s master to ground when active
all unswitched (shown 800s (!) - just imagine V1B between relay 1A and the junction in front of V2A.
Look at the schem . . .
2A and 2B and 2C switched: Jose (one double, one single relay)
1A and 1B switched, VTL also: Plex (means you just need a double pole relay)
2 C shunts the 800s master to ground when active
all unswitched (shown
800s (!) - just imagine V1B between relay 1A and the junction in front of V2A.Attachments
A
Anonymous
Guest
Wow, Olaf - lots to think about. I'll respond to your posts in a little while and incorporate into my schematic.
Steve
Steve
A
Anonymous
Guest
duesentrieb":1p3o4pmf said:
I got my info on the Jose from this schematic. Isn't what I have identical to the schem?
duesentrieb
Well-known member
Just rechecked it, Steve. Your schem is ok - sorry for the confusion. Mine as well - I'd still add that 22nF and 1M to avoid pops and 180-200V DC on the relay. The R in front of the Jose Master is a 10k though.