UPDATES to SLO clone I'm building.

[jasonP]

Had a couple problems right away. v5 was wrong on the layout had to change 2 wires. I forgot to ground the 4.7k resistor on the pre-amp board. Forgot one of the H.V. taps. One of the resitors is wrong for the switching power supply that I have one LDR needs to be changed.

 

[scottosan]

I would go with the Onetics Marshall or Hi-def OT. If you call Deyoung, they will refer you to Bud Pervine at Onetics. I believe they consulted with Bud on there trasformer designs

 

[slomojo]

And if you call Bud Purvine... He will refer you to Rob @ C3 Amps. Three reasons: Bud doesn't stock transformers and it would be 8 weeks minimum and 2) He only makes the custom SLO transformers for C3 Amps. 3) C3 Amps has lots of them in inventory (50 & 100W) including the Marshall voice OT's if you wanted to go that route.

Lastly, Heyboer and the lot will custom wind whatever you want... but those in the know and those in the industry will tell you that if you want the best and you want to do it right... go with the O'Netics.

 

[Axisman]

Hey guys, not tyring to hijack this thread or anything but I have a question. Does anyone offer a sloclone kit for sale? I would like to attempt to build one (or have someone build me one) with just the lead channel and a loop, a single channel slo circuit. Is this possible, and how much money, roughly, would it cost? Thanks.

 

[stephen sawall]

Hey guys, not tyring to hijack this thread or anything but I have a question. Does anyone offer a sloclone kit for sale? I would like to attempt to build one (or have someone build me one) with just the lead channel and a loop, a single channel slo circuit. Is this possible, and how much money, roughly, would it cost? Thanks.

I am interested also ???

 

[jasonP]

I went with O'netics iron. Sounds pretty good. The only thing I've done to this circuit is replace the slope resistor to give me a little more lower mids from 47k to 39k, basically just to give it some more beef. I has a lot of upper mid sizzle and it has a shit load of gain. Very loud. Pretty rocking. I still like my DSL that Mike Fortin helped me with a little better. Both sound awesome just different and I'm digging the modded DSL right now.
I will tell you I wish I would have went with the PCB board that smash offers. Would have been much easier of a build as it was my first time. I like the looks of the turret build but still.
I think I will replace my mid pot with a 50k to give me more range and fatten up the mids.
I had some problems as well that basically left me scratching my head. Still have channel bleed issues. Basically if you turn up the gain on the channel that is not selected you can hear it bleed through the channel that you are playing on. So I'm thinking I will try some relays as they don't have the 200 ohm on and 50M ohm off crap that LDR's have. I checked layout about 100 times now and everything looks ok.
Had a little hum problem. Fixed by grounding the pot cases to the chassis. I guess it helps shield them.
Also the turret layout I've found to be wrong mostly on V5 tube. So make sure and watch for that when building if you do.

 

[jasonP]

Hey guys, not tyring to hijack this thread or anything but I have a question. Does anyone offer a sloclone kit for sale? I would like to attempt to build one (or have someone build me one) with just the lead channel and a loop, a single channel slo circuit. Is this possible, and how much money, roughly, would it cost? Thanks.

I am interested also ???

Webber I thought has a kit called Heather from what I remember but I'm not sure if he sells it anymore.

 

[jasonP]

More pictures. New teflon shielded wire!! I love this stuff.

 

[MARK1970]

My compliments on your work. For being your first amp, you really did a nice clean job.

 

[jasonP]

My compliments on your work. For being your first amp, you really did a nice clean job.

Thanks dude! I figure you might as well take your time and do it nice if you are going to spend the money.

I'm starting wish I would have some how either made my own power board or mounted the caps to the same "power" side of the chassis. I think I'm picking up a little hum running the wires across the chassis like this as there is 500 volts running through them. I guess the hum is about just a little less then the hiss on the OD. On the clean you have to have the the master at 8 to tell.
Still bugs me I can't get the channel bleed figured out... I'm going to check caps tomorrow and see if anything is wrong there. Granted you can bearly tell, it still bothers me. If everything checks out ok I'm saying fuck it and going for relays.

 

[stephen sawall]

I agree it is a very clean job .... it looks great.

 

[Axisman]

I went with O'netics iron. Sounds pretty good. The only thing I've done to this circuit is replace the slope resistor to give me a little more lower mids from 47k to 39k, basically just to give it some more beef. I has a lot of upper mid sizzle and it has a shit load of gain. Very loud. Pretty rocking. I still like my DSL that Mike Fortin helped me with a little better. Both sound awesome just different and I'm digging the modded DSL right now.
I will tell you I wish I would have went with the PCB board that smash offers. Would have been much easier of a build as it was my first time. I like the looks of the turret build but still.
I think I will replace my mid pot with a 50k to give me more range and fatten up the mids.
I had some problems as well that basically left me scratching my head. Still have channel bleed issues. Basically if you turn up the gain on the channel that is not selected you can hear it bleed through the channel that you are playing on. So I'm thinking I will try some relays as they don't have the 200 ohm on and 50M ohm off crap that LDR's have. I checked layout about 100 times now and everything looks ok.
Had a little hum problem. Fixed by grounding the pot cases to the chassis. I guess it helps shield them.
Also the turret layout I've found to be wrong mostly on V5 tube. So make sure and watch for that when building if you do.

I currently have a dsl 50 and I'm interested in modding it. I've read through your modded dsl thread and also emailed Mike Fortin. You say that you really like your modded dsl and I am asking what is the final list of mods that you did. I know that there is an update #2 in that thread but I also have an email that Mike forwarded to me from you dated 6/21/2009. If you could PM me a list of the parts, where you got them, and also the type of transformer and choke that you used so I can try this mod on my own. This is my second dsl (a 100 and now a fifty) and I love the amp (would be better if it had separate eq's) it just seems something is missing. Sorry for the trouble, but any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again,
JD

 

[jasonP]

Hey JD, No problem I will do my best to help you out. I got all my parts from mouser.com. I also like the 5H choke but would not replace the OT. No need and a waste of money IMO. For resistors go for Vishay/Dale 1/2-3/4-1 watt metal film. For caps I would just go with ceramics. 1kv would be fine same Vishay/Dale brand. Make sure and label everything before taking it appart.

For values and this is the way I've left it now for a while now and feel that it sounds it best right now.
Here is the e-mail and I still stand by this now. Best amp I've heard with all the amps I've tried and owned. This amp kicks ass and might I say Mike Fortin kicks major ass. This dude rocks.
Hey Mike,
I wanted to give you an update and I would totally recomend this after trying a couple different values.
I would still do the depth mod. I add in about 15 percent just to give it a little more lower mids. But sounds great with out as well.
Pretty much the best sound out of my amp so far with these values.

Main
I've tried both 220pf and 470pf over R23. Much prefer the 220pf.
1uf for C12 for less mids. . The .68uf is just to much.
R12=22K
R13=100K
C17= .001UF
C13= 2.2UF
C8=.0047UF
C16=.0022
C6&C7= .1UF
Input
C10/C11/R19/R20 all jumped. More gain and like the voicing of the amp more like this.
R36 15k, C22 Jumped, C19 470p Left Stock. Mid scoop option is not a dramatic before and is way more usable. Great for more modern tones, chords, drop tunings.
C12 .0047 I love this. Amp gets aggressive when down and compressed when gain turned up.

Output Jack Schematic:
R19 IS THE FB RESISTOR, TRY IT ON THE 8 OHM TAP INSTEAD OF 4 OHM.

Again thanks Mike! I could not have had this good of a sounding amp without.
Jason

 

[Axisman]

Thanks for the reply jasonp. Mike F. did forward me the message that you posted above but I just wanted to be sure. I guess I will be ordering parts

 

[gbsmusic]

Great job! I look at all that is going on in those things and I just get dizzy!! I just dont have the patients or brain for it!

 

[jasonP]

I agree it is a very clean job .... it looks great.

Thanks dude!!

Thank you GBS!

lots of time and hard work. Still not totally done. I think I would have rather bought a amp complete. But very fun time and learned alot.

 

[jasonP]

Thanks for the reply jasonp. Mike F. did forward me the message that you posted above but I just wanted to be sure. I guess I will be ordering parts

Yep I think this mod for the DSL takes it to another level. If you like it now you will fall in love with it after. In my opinion. It just has so much more feel and everything leaps off the fret board. So much fun to play. Also never heard a amp sound so good cranked up to 6, really holds together and sounds like a big v8 wound tight.

 

[Axisman]

One quick question, when you say C10/C11/R19/R20 all jumped what exactly do you mean, removing cap/resistor and jumping leads? I know a little about electronics but I have a friend that will be helping me with this project (he owns an electronic repair shop).

 

[jasonP]

One quick question, when you say C10/C11/R19/R20 all jumped what exactly do you mean, removing cap/resistor and jumping leads? I know a little about electronics but I have a friend that will be helping me with this project (he owns an electronic repair shop).

Yup, you hit the nail on the head.
Make sure and get some of the wide solder wick. The power board has the resistors/caps soldered on both sides so it is just a bitch to work with.

 

[Silverworks]

A beautiful build. Major motivation. I want to do a SLO project and seeing this has made me really want to do it. I think your right (JasonP)though in making it easier with PCB's. After looking at the parts list I conclude that there are LOTS of them from lots of places. I built a bassman a while back and think this is doable though. I have talked with Weber regarding kits. They have the Heather deal going (not sure what transformers) but it seems OK. And I have talked with C3Amps and they will put together a kit with O'Netics iron. They would even do sequential kits if I wanted to string it out a bit for cost. So I could get a power board kit... preamp kit... chassis kit.... etc.

Which way should I go? I want it to kick &%$# . Can those with experience with this offer some advice?