why the Kahler hate?

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petee":10lsmvkh said:
psychodave":10lsmvkh said:
petee":10lsmvkh said:
paulyc":10lsmvkh said:
EXPcustom":10lsmvkh said:
paulyc":10lsmvkh said:
chunktone":10lsmvkh said:
EXPcustom":10lsmvkh said:
Nothing beats a Kahler with a Floyd nut. Most of the hate comes from people unable or not knowing to set them up.

Except a Floyd with a Floyd nut.
Winning,

Yeah especially if you like a huge portion of the most resonate part of a guitar's wood body literally ripped out of a guitar. :scared:
Kahlers lose sustain, I’ve owned several. The rollers and just the general design just lose tone. A Floyd loses only what, an extra 1/4 inch of wood over a vintage strat bridge ? The Kahler needs a hole routed in the face of the guitar too.

The Floyd has a lot more wood hogged out of the guitar. Kahler loses about 3/8" on top of the guitar, the Floyd has route through the guitar and that huge swimming pool on the backside. I'm not sure it matters to me, but I never understood the argument.

From where? I use top mounted Floyd’s...

I like top mounts too, but there's still a slot milled through the body and a huge route on the backside for the claw/springs. More wood removed then a Kahler, I don't care. I am just pointing out the argument doesn't work. If tone is based on the amount of wood removed being a bad thing, Floyd loses.
Tone clearly is not based on the amount of wood that's been removed...because every Kahler equipped USA axe I've owned has paled in tonal comparison to the Floyd equipped ones. Not even a contest actually. Very dead sounding compared to Floyds. In my experience anyway.
 
paulyc":34rxq7q6 said:
I’ve made my own big brass blocks, a steel block and an aluminum block, the brass sounds the best to my ears, followed by steel, aluminum last. I’ve never tried the stone block, and tungsten is expensive and super heavy. It’s funny, these theories about weight go back and forth every few years. I don’t think it ever gets settled. Lol
LOL! Yeah, it doesn't ever seem to get settled. I've seen really light guitars that are extraordinarily resonant and others that are deader than a coffin nail. I've seen the same with heavy guitars, too. Both apply to fixed bridges as well as all types of tremolos. LOL! Not sure it ever will be settled. :)

I agree that brass sounds best to my ears, at least most of the time. I have a few fixed bridges made out of aluminum but with brass saddles that sound really good. Steel sounds good, too, kind of a common ground between fast attack and good sustain.

Anyway... I wanted to add a couple of things here in relation to my experiences with Kahlers, just as general comments and not in response to anything in particular. I'm not the de facto Kahler expert, rather just wanting to share my experiences in case anyone might find this useful (which is also debatable).

Just for clarity, I've been talking about the original Kahler top-mounted tremolos and not the Floyd-like Kahlers. As for the latter, I like the original Floyds, but I like the former, original Kahlers, too. So much of it depends on the guitar, and so much of it is just subjective preference. Top mount Kahlers certainly have a lot of mass and don't require as much wood removal as an Original Floyd, but I don't think that makes a ton of difference. Either way, it's the old weight/mass equals better sustain argument, and either way, there certainly seems to be more to sustain than just weight/mass.

I think that Kahlers are more expensive to manufacture than Floyds because there are more parts. I think that's part of the reason there haven't been as many Kahlers featured as standard equipment on more guitars. I also think that Kahlers don't hold their value as well as Floyds do, possibly because most people aren't as familiar with them due to the aforementioned reason. I don't think that's a result of any inherent flaws in the design of the original Kahlers, but more a function of the marketplace.

As for setup, I've run across two areas that weren't immediately obvious, at least not to me. One is that the strings need to pass over the saddles at an angle steep enough to maintain tension. This isn't any different than setting a proper angle on a TOM bridge. This might be related to one of the reasons top-wrapping stop tailpieces can be a good idea. With the stop bar all the way down and the strings coming off the top, the angle the strings pass over the bridge is very close to ideal for most Gibsons and other necks set at the same angle. Same idea with Kahlers, and I've seen many Kahlers that didn't maintain this angle. That can lead to a loss of tone, sustain, and the ability to keep the strings in the saddles, all of which are common complaints with Kahlers.

The other thing that wasn't immediately obvious is ensuring that the string ends are properly seated in the claws. With vintage Fenders, you just run the string through the block and don't worry about how the ball is oriented. With Floyds, you either cut the ball off (EEK!! String castration!!) or run the string through the tuners first. Again, there's no reason to be concerned with how the ball is oriented. With Kahlers, that's not the case. The ball has to be perpendicular to the string with both sides of the ball firmly against both sides of the claw. If it's not, there's a good chance that it will pop out during heavy use, another common complaint.

Other than that, Kahlers need maintenance just like any other tremolo. They are less forgiving, though, if not maintained as the bearings in the saddles and cam can freeze or get gummed up, which can lead to tuning and stability problems. Maintenance really isn't anything other than keeping them cleaned and oiled (occassionally).

This all comes down to what works for the individual player. Some people like Floyds, some Kahlers, some TOMs, some Evertunes, some Bigsby, some vintage Fender, and some people don't like any of those. Nothing wrong with that at all, no matter what side of which fence you're on. With a Bigsby, you won't be getting any huge divebombs, but nothing else really gets that subtle vibrato that a Bigsby can provide, at least IMHO. It's just about having the right tool that works best for you.
 
I have a basswood Mike Learn graphic Charvel that’s light and I’m not a fan. I have an Art series EVH that’s light too and I’m not a fan. (Both basswood bodies with Floyd’s) Years ago I had a BC Rich Gunslinger that was a light mahogany body...dead as a door nail. That had a Floyd too. I had a red G&L Rampage with a Kahler... not a fan of the Kahler (this is back around ‘86-‘87), but the guitar was great. I’ve had some Kahler Jackson San Dimas Guitars too, not a fan of those Kahlers either. But EVERY heavy as fuck Norlin Les Paul Standard, Custom or Deluxe I’ve ever played is a tone machine, and those don’t have any weight relief or aluminum stop bars, etc... the ones I like have maple necks, not mahogany and they are pretty damn heavy.
 
I'll agree with that... those '70s/'80s Norlin LPs usually get slammed for build quality, excess weight, etc., etc., but those I've seen (more than a few) have appeared to be built well and are tone monsters. I'm sure there are exceptions, but I haven't run across them. I'm not really a fan of basswood, either, just seems kind of bland tonally, but I don't think it's a bad wood.
 
Norlin Les Pauls rule IMO. LOVE them. As heavy as they are... The 3-5 piece tops , “ clownbursts” and pancake bodies are let downs, but I like the rest. I have a bunch and none are pancakes or clown bursts, although a couple are more than 2 piece tops. John Sykes never had a problem with his black LPC, and Zakk never met a Norlin he didn’t like. Good enough for them,good enough for me. Weight and all.
 
I would love a Kahler equipped guitar. I had several back in the day and loved them. To me the flat mount non routing doesn't require a gaping route so you keep the mass of the wood aka no tone/sustain suck. As long as you set them up well you are golden.
 
You can't change the neck break angle on a strat style guitar without shimming the neck excessively (or routing the neck pocket in the body) resulting in a loss of tone and sustain anyway... The OP wants a Kahler for his strat...
 
Mailman1971":18th26y4 said:
Best Floyd ever is the Kahler Steeler.
The regular Kahlers just feel soft and mushy to me.
Must of been a problem since Kahler made a ‘floyd’ upgrade with stiffer springs.
I remember buying the kit back in the 80s.


THIS x1000. I have a Steeler on my '93 Tom Anderson and it's better than any Floyd I've had.
 
paulyc":3lz21e3e said:
You can't change the neck break angle on a strat style guitar without shimming the neck excessively (or routing the neck pocket in the body) resulting in a loss of tone and sustain anyway... The OP wants a Kahler for his strat...
Just don't use a shim under the Kahler. I've seen quite a few that do when they didn't need one. With the flat-mount sitting on the face of the body, the string angle should be OK. I have had several Strat bodies with Kahlers that I could get in range without any neck shims. Of course, that doesn't rule out the OP not needing them, either. IME, all guitars are just a little different, so YMMV.

Also, StewMac now has neck shims that are solid wood. I haven't used any (no need), but they look like they should retain a lot more contact between the neck and the body than all the shims I've ever seen.

Edit: https://www.stewmac.com/Materials_a...itar_Necks/StewMac_Neck_Shims_for_Guitar.html
 
I've always preferred Floyds over Kahlers. Like other guys have said, Kahlers feel "squishy" to me.
As far as the routing required for a Floyd, I beleive it's just slightly larger than a standard strat rout.
 
reverymike":36y7qotl said:
Mailman1971":36y7qotl said:
Best Floyd ever is the Kahler Steeler.
The regular Kahlers just feel soft and mushy to me.
Must of been a problem since Kahler made a ‘floyd’ upgrade with stiffer springs.
I remember buying the kit back in the 80s.


THIS x1000. I have a Steeler on my '93 Tom Anderson and it's better than any Floyd I've had.

I bought a gold Kahler Steeler tremolo bridge in the early '90s from a small guitar shop in Hayward, CA. One of the best Floyd Rose licensed tremolo bridges ever made! I had mine installed on an old Chandler birdseye maple/ebony fretboard neck with a gold Floyd Rose locking nut on an aftermarket alder Strat body. That guitar with the Steeler bridge and Chandler neck absolutely wailed. I traded it off to a local Music Go Round in San Jose to get a Fender American Standard with a Floyd Rose bridge (no fine tuners). I should have kept that guitar, but I was wanting to have a Fender Strat in my guitar collection.

I also have an '87 Fender Japan Contemporary Strat with the Kahler Spyder tremolo bridge & locking nut. It's a great bridge and far better than the Schaller System I/II/III tremolo bridges that was OEM on those guitars.

Guitar George
 
:thumbsup:
EXPcustom":2hgcpcrw said:
Nothing beats a Kahler with a Floyd nut. Most of the hate comes from people unable or not knowing to set them up.
 
Zachalou":3gvvg3jg said:
I’ve got an original Kahler Steeler Trem in one of my Bich’s, best and most stable tremolo system I’ve ever used

:thumbsup:
 
:thumbsup:
Mailman1971":2h86nyrk said:
Best Floyd ever is the Kahler Steeler.
The regular Kahlers just feel soft and mushy to me.
Must of been a problem since Kahler made a ‘floyd’ upgrade with stiffer springs.
I remember buying the kit back in the 80s.
 
As far as tone is concerned, it doesn't matter how well a cam-designed Kahler is setup. Its roller saddles are moving parts with so much string energy sapping qualities. Thats why they sound dull and lose tone. It will never be solid at the point of contact where string meets saddle due to it being a rolling (moving) part.
 
Not trying to be a contrarian, but all tremolos have moving parts. Vibrational energy is transferred through surface contact. In the case of a Floyd, that's a small amount on each string near the lock on each saddle. From there, it's transferred to the guitar body through two knife-edge points and two-five springs (which lose energy through elasticity) and finally through two screws. In the case of a Kahler, the surface area of string on saddle is approximately the same. These saddles may roll, but they're using tight fitting bearings that are held firmly in place by the string tension. From there, energy is transferred through the saddle to the base via the mounting rod on the back of the saddles, through the saddle height adjustment screws, and through the string hooks' connection to the cam. From these attachment points, the energy is then passed directly to the body via the plate that is attached directly to the top. Arguably, a Kahler has much greater transfer potential than a Floyd does.

Anyway, I think everyone has the right to like and dislike anything they choose. I'm just trying to point out that, while these two systems are drastically different, they're both valid choices. Anything more than that is just personal preference.
 
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