Ceriatone Chupacabra effects loop/tone changes?

[ledvedder]

The one question I have at this point is this. Will the overall volume of the amp affect how loud the pedals in the loop are? Meaning, as I turn up the master volume on the amp, will the pedal levels also increase?

The signal hitting the pedal will definitely increase as you turn up the master

Well that sucks. My DSL doesn't do that. Is there any way around this?

i suggest trying it before you begin worrying about tweaking it. It will behave like most other buffered loops. The behavior and tone of your pedals likely will not deviate depending on volume. Unless you are are playing at extreme levels, I suspect you will be happy with the loop

Great point! Now, to figure out where I can mount this thing.

 

[Zachman]

The one question I have at this point is this. Will the overall volume of the amp affect how loud the pedals in the loop are? Meaning, as I turn up the master volume on the amp, will the pedal levels also increase?

The signal hitting the pedal will definitely increase as you turn up the master

Well that sucks. My DSL doesn't do that. Is there any way around this?

Adjust the input levels of the pedals in the loop to accommodate the required level, that your amp is giving.

If your pedals do not have a way to adjust the Line input level-- Stick the signal from your loop send into a line mixer w/ adjustable levels per channel 1st, then send to your fx, and you can adjust the signal hitting the front end of your fx independently from how loud your amp is set, by adjusting the line mixer levels.

 

[ledvedder]

I bought a Metro zero loss loop to install. Now, I just need to figure out how to do it.

 

[Zachman]

I bought a Metro zero loss loop to install. Now, I just need to figure out how to do it.

You could also use a Suhr Line Out box and use it's adjustable line level send to drive your fx input and send the output to a 2nd amp for a dual mono W/D setup, or if using a stereo fx-- to a 2nd stereo power amp you could have a W/D/W setup, as a way to do this without modifying your amp at all..

 

[ledvedder]

After looking at the board, jack, and my amp, it looks like the only place I can mount it is at the far right side, next to the "trimmer" pot. Neither the existing effects loop jack or one of the effects loop jacks and one of the speaker jacks are the correct distance apart.







I'm not sure if I can remove the jacks from the board due to the resistor that's soldered in with the jack.

 

[scottosan]

Since that area is so close to the first gain stage, you may introduce noise.

 

[ledvedder]

Since that area is so close to the first gain stage, you may introduce noise.

Hmm, I didn't think of that. This is going to be more difficult than I thought.

 

[scottosan]

Since that area is so close to the first gain stage, you may introduce noise.

Hmm, I didn't think of that. This is going to be more difficult than I thought.

it may be fine. You could find a plastic sheet to insulate the board fro touching anything and wire it in over 41 without drilling the chassis to test for noise, if that makes sense.

 

[CrazyNutz]

DONT put it on that side of the chassis. You will not be able to put your headshell back side on.

And yeah you may have noise or oscillation near V1.

I would use stiff buss wire to extend the leads on the jacks, position the leads to line back up with the loop board or vice versa. use heatshink tubing (or wire insulation) to insulate the new leads if they need it. this way you dont have to worry about mounting, the buss wire is rigid enough to hold the loop board. You may have to mount it upside down.

 

[ledvedder]

DONT put it on that side of the chassis. You will not be able to put your headshell back side on.

And yeah you may have noise or oscillation near V1.

I would use stiff buss wire to extend the leads on the jacks, position the leads to line back up with the loop board or vice versa. use heatshink tubing (or wire insulation) to insulate the new leads if they need it. this way you dont have to worry about mounting, the buss wire is rigid enough to hold the loop board. You may have to mount it upside down.

Do you mean to use the existing send and return jacks on the head panel, and run wires from them to the send and return jacks on the effects loop board? Then just mount the board somewhere inside the head?

 

[scottosan]

DONT put it on that side of the chassis. You will not be able to put your headshell back side on.

And yeah you may have noise or oscillation near V1.

I would use stiff buss wire to extend the leads on the jacks, position the leads to line back up with the loop board or vice versa. use heatshink tubing (or wire insulation) to insulate the new leads if they need it. this way you dont have to worry about mounting, the buss wire is rigid enough to hold the loop board. You may have to mount it upside down.

Do you mean to use the existing send and return jacks on the head panel, and run wires from them to the send and return jacks on the effects loop board? Then just mount the board somewhere inside the head?

that wouldn't work with the jacks still installed on the board. They are shorting jacks, which means when nothing is physically plugged into them the the short and allow signal to bypass. You would need to remove the the jacks from the metro board.

 

[ledvedder]

Yeah, I'm not sure how to remove and reconnect them, since one of the contacts also has a resistor with it.

 

[CrazyNutz]

DONT put it on that side of the chassis. You will not be able to put your headshell back side on.

And yeah you may have noise or oscillation near V1.

I would use stiff buss wire to extend the leads on the jacks, position the leads to line back up with the loop board or vice versa. use heatshink tubing (or wire insulation) to insulate the new leads if they need it. this way you dont have to worry about mounting, the buss wire is rigid enough to hold the loop board. You may have to mount it upside down.

Do you mean to use the existing send and return jacks on the head panel, and run wires from them to the send and return jacks on the effects loop board? Then just mount the board somewhere inside the head?

You have to remove the send/return jacks from the loop board. Thats just a blob of solder on that resistor, no problem there.
Also you will need a solder sucker to remove the jacks.

You may want to find someone to do this work for you. I only suggest this (don't take offence ) because you seem a bit timid.

 

[ledvedder]

DONT put it on that side of the chassis. You will not be able to put your headshell back side on.

And yeah you may have noise or oscillation near V1.

I would use stiff buss wire to extend the leads on the jacks, position the leads to line back up with the loop board or vice versa. use heatshink tubing (or wire insulation) to insulate the new leads if they need it. this way you dont have to worry about mounting, the buss wire is rigid enough to hold the loop board. You may have to mount it upside down.

Do you mean to use the existing send and return jacks on the head panel, and run wires from them to the send and return jacks on the effects loop board? Then just mount the board somewhere inside the head?

You have to remove the send/return jacks from the loop board. Thats just a blob of solder on that resistor, no problem there.
Also you will need a solder sucker to remove the jacks.

You may want to find someone to do this work for you. I only suggest this (don't take offence ) because you seem a bit timid.

Haha! No offense taken. I'm pretty good with soldering. I've been working on guitar electronics for years. As far as amps, I've done a few things here and there. Swapping resisters, caps, etc. I have a roll of desoldering braid, but no sucker. I'll have to order one, since no one near me sells them. Radio Shack is gone

And while I'm at it, I guess I'll have to order wire to run from the disconnected jacks, back to the board. Any specific type of wire I should get?

I'm also assuming that I can just clip the metal bar that's running through both speaker jacks and the existing effects loop jacks? I believe it's just a ground.

 

[CrazyNutz]

99.9% sure you can leave the metal bar (ground buss) inplace, ill check my metro loop to make sure. That way you would only have to run the four "TIP" leads back to the loop.

That bar is "Buss wire" if you use buss wire for the leads it will eliminate your need to mount the loop somewhere as the buss wire is rigid, it will hold it into place.

you can find 18awg buss wire here:
http://www.valvestorm.com/Products/Wire

 

[CrazyNutz]

Nope I was wrong you'll have to move, or rework that buss bar.

This is an old version of the metro loop. One of the ground legs tie to that 10r resistor

 

[ledvedder]

99.9% sure you can leave the metal bar (ground buss) inplace, ill check my metro loop to make sure. That way you would only have to run the four "TIP" leads back to the loop.

That bar is "Buss wire" if you use buss wire for the leads it will eliminate your need to mount the loop somewhere as the buss wire is rigid, it will hold it into place.

you can find 18awg buss wire here:
http://www.valvestorm.com/Products/Wire

So, if I use buss wire to run from 4 leads on the jack to the 4 connections on the effects loop board, that would be enough to hold up the board? Just the soldered buss wire?

Doesn't it need to be insulated wire?

 

[FourT6and2]

I would use coax for everything if you're running wire to-from the board and/or jacks.

Or... you could just spend $80 on a better delay pedal. One that has selectable true-bypass or buffered. And if that doesn't sound good to you, just return it and then worry about tearing up the amp. GC or Sweetwater both have good return policies. Seems like a smarter course of action to me.

 

[ledvedder]

I would use coax for everything if you're running wire to-from the board and/or jacks.

Or... you could just spend $80 on a better delay pedal. One that has selectable true-bypass or buffered. And if that doesn't sound good to you, just return it and then worry about tearing up the amp. GC or Sweetwater both have good return policies. Seems like a smarter course of action to me.

Yep, I thought about that. But, my problem is that I need delay, reverb, and a volume boost through the effects loop. That's up towards $400 to replace effects that I already have.

 

[FourT6and2]

I would use coax for everything if you're running wire to-from the board and/or jacks.

Or... you could just spend $80 on a better delay pedal. One that has selectable true-bypass or buffered. And if that doesn't sound good to you, just return it and then worry about tearing up the amp. GC or Sweetwater both have good return policies. Seems like a smarter course of action to me.

Yep, I thought about that. But, my problem is that I need delay, reverb, and a volume boost through the effects loop. That's up towards $400 to replace effects that I already have.

You only need one buffer... Don't need to replace all three things. Just get one pedal with a solid buffer in it. Or a dedicated buffer pedal.