Ceriatone Chupacabra effects loop/tone changes?

[ledvedder]

I would use coax for everything if you're running wire to-from the board and/or jacks.

Or... you could just spend $80 on a better delay pedal. One that has selectable true-bypass or buffered. And if that doesn't sound good to you, just return it and then worry about tearing up the amp. GC or Sweetwater both have good return policies. Seems like a smarter course of action to me.

Yep, I thought about that. But, my problem is that I need delay, reverb, and a volume boost through the effects loop. That's up towards $400 to replace effects that I already have.

You only need one buffer... Don't need to replace all three things. Just get one pedal with a solid buffer in it. Or a dedicated buffer pedal.

But don't I need to buffer the volume both in and out of the effects loop?

 

[FourT6and2]

I would use coax for everything if you're running wire to-from the board and/or jacks.

Or... you could just spend $80 on a better delay pedal. One that has selectable true-bypass or buffered. And if that doesn't sound good to you, just return it and then worry about tearing up the amp. GC or Sweetwater both have good return policies. Seems like a smarter course of action to me.

Yep, I thought about that. But, my problem is that I need delay, reverb, and a volume boost through the effects loop. That's up towards $400 to replace effects that I already have.

You only need one buffer... Don't need to replace all three things. Just get one pedal with a solid buffer in it. Or a dedicated buffer pedal.

But don't I need to buffer the volume both in and out of the effects loop?

No, not really.

 

[CrazyNutz]

I would use coax for everything if you're running wire to-from the board and/or jacks.

Yeah, but do you get what I'm saying? He only needs about an inch of busswire per lead to extend the jacks away from the loop board. That way he does not need to worry about securing the loop board to the chassis, the buss wire will hold it in place.

 

[ledvedder]

Hmm, I wonder if something like a Digitech RP360 would work well in the existing loop? You can assign different effects to each of the 3 buttons. That way, I can have my delay, reverb, and boost assigned to each of the footswitches.

 

[CrazyNutz]

the send and return will be reversed since the board will be upside down, but nothing a labeler cant fix.

 

[FourT6and2]

I would use coax for everything if you're running wire to-from the board and/or jacks.

Yeah, but do you get what I'm saying? He only needs about an inch of busswire per lead to extend the jacks away from the loop board. That way he does not need to worry about securing the loop board to the chassis, the buss wire will hold it in place.

Oh, yeah that makes sense. Just use some sturdy bus wire and make sure it's soldered really securely to the board. I'd use thick bus wire, but gotta make sure you can either fit it into the thru-holes on the board or solder directly to the pad.

 

[CrazyNutz]

18awg bus wire will fit the pcb holes, and will be very sturdy

 

[ledvedder]

18awg bus wire will fit the pcb holes, and will be very sturdy

I'm assuming it will need to be insulated?

 

[FourT6and2]

18awg bus wire will fit the pcb holes, and will be very sturdy

I'm assuming it will need to be insulated?

Just strip some 18 gauge wire and put the insulation over the bus wire. Or use some teflon tubing. But no. doesn't need to be insulated if there's nothing else that might touch it.

 

[ledvedder]

I ran out to Guitar Center since they had one of those Digitech RP360 units "used". I figured I'd give it a shot. It's a little better than the pedals I was trying, but it still squashes the highs. It gives the amp that "covered with a blanket" tone. I tried to compensate with eq, but I couldn't get it close to the tone it has when nothing is plugged into the loop

 

[ledvedder]

Is this similar to what you've already suggested?

"Replace the current (pre tone stack) master volume pot with a fixed 1M resistor. Install the Metro Zero Loss FX loop after the treble pot viper. Add a new master volume between the output of the loop and the PI input.

This picture is for the Tube-Town FX loop, but it will be pretty much the same for your amp (after you've removed the pre tone-stack master)."

 

[scottosan]

Is this similar to what you've already suggested?

"Replace the current (pre tone stack) master volume pot with a fixed 1M resistor. Install the Metro Zero Loss FX loop after the treble pot viper. Add a new master volume between the output of the loop and the PI input.

This picture is for the Tube-Town FX loop, but it will be pretty much the same for your amp (after you've removed the pre tone-stack master)."

Your problem is fitting the board physically not logically. Ther is no need to start modding the circuit. Until you get it in physically these mods are not even an option. I promise you once you get in in the circuit between the treble and PI, you will forget about modding it because it’s absolutly unessesary unnecessary. I have been using these loops since version 1 at least 8 years ago and have used them in master volume, non master volume, Jose, all without issues

 

[CrazyNutz]

Just disconnect the existing coax from the send/ret jacks, and re-connect it to the metro loop.

Add the bypass switch, and the return pot later if you want.

 

[ledvedder]

Ok, I'm going to try and find some time to mess with this today.

Here is yet another option I was given. Looks like this involves different MV placement.

 

[CrazyNutz]

Yeah, I would not mess with that. Completely unnecessary. Just attach the existing (send/return) coax to the metro loop.

 

[ledvedder]

Ok, here's the existing wires connected to the send and return jacks, and the other end of the wires connecting to the B+ and middle treble wiper. Am I just disconnecting the black wires from the send and return jacks and connecting the to the in and out on the metro board? Where do I get B+ for the metro board?

 

[FourT6and2]

Ok, here's the existing wires connected to the send and return jacks, and the other end of the wires connecting to the B+ and middle treble wiper. Am I just disconnecting the black wires from the send and return jacks and connecting the to the in and out on the metro board? Where do I get B+ for the metro board?

Just disconnect the coax from the send/return jacks. And attach them to the Metro board. Don't mess with the other ends (treble pot, preamp board, etc.). You can grab the B+ from anywhere, really. As long as you make sure you are using the correct voltage for the Metro board. I think the PI node might be a good place to try. Or the PI-side of the large blue filter cap on the preamp board since it's physically closer (this is the spot connected to V2, pin 6). But it's the same point in the circuit as the PI node since there is no dropping resistor between them.

What do the Metro Board instructions say about the required voltage?

 

[ledvedder]

Ok, here's the existing wires connected to the send and return jacks, and the other end of the wires connecting to the B+ and middle treble wiper. Am I just disconnecting the black wires from the send and return jacks and connecting the to the in and out on the metro board? Where do I get B+ for the metro board?

Just disconnect the coax from the send/return jacks. And attach them to the Metro board. Don't mess with the other ends (treble pot, preamp board, etc.). You can grab the B+ from anywhere, really. As long as you make sure you are using the correct voltage for the Metro board. I think the PI node might be a good place to try. Or the PI-side of the large blue filter cap on the preamp board since it's physically closer (this is the spot connected to V2, pin 6). But it's the same point in the circuit as the PI node since there is no dropping resistor between them.

What do the Metro Board instructions say about the required voltage?

Based on my B+ measurement, I have to use a 33K resistor between the voltage source and the B+ terminal on the metro board.

 

[scottosan]

The metro board should require a ground. Jus make sure the tour coax is only grounded on 1 side of each lead

 

[FourT6and2]

Ok, here's the existing wires connected to the send and return jacks, and the other end of the wires connecting to the B+ and middle treble wiper. Am I just disconnecting the black wires from the send and return jacks and connecting the to the in and out on the metro board? Where do I get B+ for the metro board?

Just disconnect the coax from the send/return jacks. And attach them to the Metro board. Don't mess with the other ends (treble pot, preamp board, etc.). You can grab the B+ from anywhere, really. As long as you make sure you are using the correct voltage for the Metro board. I think the PI node might be a good place to try. Or the PI-side of the large blue filter cap on the preamp board since it's physically closer (this is the spot connected to V2, pin 6). But it's the same point in the circuit as the PI node since there is no dropping resistor between them.

What do the Metro Board instructions say about the required voltage?

Based on my B+ measurement, I have to use a 33K resistor between the voltage source and the B+ terminal on the metro board.

How do you know this? What is your voltage source? The value of your dropping resistor will vary depending on what B+ source you use. B+ is not constant. It's different depending on where in the circuit you tap it. Voltage in my stock Chupa 50 at the PI B+ node is around 330v, for example. If you're asking where to grab the B+ how do you know what the B+ voltage is and therefore what dropping resistor value to use?