Model 3 Charvel

[JeremyClow]

I've seen a few of these for sale for cheap and I was just wondering
1) is it worth it?
2) why are they so cheap?

 

[Dave L]

How cheap is cheap? They´re nice guitars, maybe nothing truly special but definitely solid enough. Depending on the year the 3 has the dreaded Kahler fulcrum trem or the Jackson JT6 Floyd, which isn´t great either but OK, and the bridge probably is the weak spot overall. Before the pricing of everything went haywire over the pandemic these were maybe $500, I guess.

 

[jchrisf]

I love my Model 2 that I got new when I was 18... still have it. I've notice a couple of YTers have recently gotten Model 2s and love them. I can only imagine the Model 3 is even better. You may have to replace the crappy trem, but everything else on the guitar is good.

 

[Dave L]

As with almost all the japanese production of the era, it´s all basically the same guitar with different tiers of hardware and electronics.

 

[Wayniac3]

They are solid guitars, and have the great feeling Charvel neck.
The trems are not the best

 

[JeremyClow]

Thanks! By “cheap” I mean around $400. Do you think that’s fair for a Model 3 with the Kahler 2520/JT-6 in fair condition ? Anything specific I should check on the bridge before buying?

How cheap is cheap? They´re nice guitars, maybe nothing truly special but definitely solid enough. Depending on the year the 3 has the dreaded Kahler fulcrum trem or the Jackson JT6 Floyd, which isn´t great either but OK, and the bridge probably is the weak spot overall. Before the pricing of everything went haywire over the pandemic these were maybe $500, I guess.

 

[shar-vell Dan]

Great guitars unique neck carve & builds. I digress on the stock Japan fulcrum trems no upgrade needed if you know what you're doing.
40+ yrs old alot have issues by now. Mine have original x-tra jumbo's w/ plenty of life.
$500 is a steal if in good shape. try it before you buy it.

 

[JeremyClow]

Thanks for the insight! I’ve heard great things about the Model 2s—cool that yours has held up since new. From what I gather the Model 3 adds the HSS layout and (depending on year) either the Kahler fulcrum or the JT‑6 Floyd-style trem. If I end up needing to swap the trem, what would you recommend—an OFR retrofit for a JT‑6, or just service the stock unit? Any routing/post-spacing gotchas you’ve run into, and did the behind-the-nut lock stay or get replaced with a proper locking nut? Also curious if you kept the stock pickups or went with a JB/59 or similar.

I love my Model 2 that I got new when I was 18... still have it. I've notice a couple of YTers have recently gotten Model 2s and love them. I can only imagine the Model 3 is even better. You may have to replace the crappy trem, but everything else on the guitar is good.

 

[JeremyClow]

Awesome pair—love the maple-board HSS next to the red single‑hum! Are those stock Japan fulcrum/JT‑6 trems, and do they hold tune well once dialed in? Also, are those the original extra‑jumbo frets? Any quick setup tips you swear by (springs/knife‑edge lube)?

Great guitars unique neck carve & builds. I digress on the stock Japan fulcrum trems no upgrade needed if you know what you're doing.
40+ yrs old alot have issues by now. Mine have original x-tra jumbo's w/ plenty of life.
$500 is a steal if in good shape. try it before you buy it.

 

[Racerxrated]

I've seen a few of these for sale for cheap and I was just wondering
1) is it worth it?
2) why are they so cheap?

They're made in Japan(not a bad thing) and aren't close to the guitar that preceded them...the USA made Charvels. I've had a model 4 and 6. Nice guitars for a teenager. A decent backup to your main guitar maybe.
But that's about it.

 

[shar-vell Dan]

Awesome pair—love the maple-board HSS next to the red single‑hum! Are those stock Japan fulcrum/JT‑6 trems, and do they hold tune well once dialed in? Also, are those the original extra‑jumbo frets? Any quick setup tips you swear by (springs/knife‑edge lube)?

White 1988 model 1C Japan fulcrum i play 09.5 to .048 5 springs in both trems. Holds tune fine. Gotta find the sweet spot.
Red is modified 1986 model 2 ive had since 1999, got from Hersch @ Daddys Junky Music [closed now].
90's era EMG-81 from the old Mars Music. That era EMG has an Op amp that EMG no longer makes. New Emg's don't sound the same.
Im on my 3rd trem, currently a GOTOH 1996T. Was doweled for a Floyd [correctly] when i got it.
If you have the Kahler Spyder type trem and want a Floyd you'll have to dowel.
Both Basswood bodies, the 1C headstock was broke in 2 places and correcly repaired. It had so much dirt on it in a garage when i bought it
didn't see the breaks but gotta say rippi'n guitar ive had no issues other than i had to rewire it. Duncan SH-5 brdg in that.

Recommend a FR type string tree for the non-lock trems.
12 / 16 compound radius FB's. These necks smoke any Mexi Charvel.






These guitars are drying up and won't be around forever. YMMV.

 

[jchrisf]

Thanks for the insight! I’ve heard great things about the Model 2s—cool that yours has held up since new. From what I gather the Model 3 adds the HSS layout and (depending on year) either the Kahler fulcrum or the JT‑6 Floyd-style trem. If I end up needing to swap the trem, what would you recommend—an OFR retrofit for a JT‑6, or just service the stock unit? Any routing/post-spacing gotchas you’ve run into, and did the behind-the-nut lock stay or get replaced with a proper locking nut? Also curious if you kept the stock pickups or went with a JB/59 or similar.

I put a Gotoh GE1996 trem in mine. It just dropped in place on the existing studs. The guitar feels and plays great and always has. It is a well built guitar and a tone machine. The stock pickups sound great but I did put a Super 3 in mine.

 

[JeremyClow]

Thanks for the deep dive—super helpful. 5 springs with 9.5–48 and “find the sweet spot” is noted, and that EMG-81 tidbit is gold.

Quick Qs:
- For a Model 3: would you keep a healthy Kahler 2520 or JT‑6, or plan an OFR/GOTOH 1996T swap? Does the 2520 also require doweling, or just the Spyder?
- FR-style string tree: any specific model/height you like, and where do you place it for best break angle without binding?
- When you say sweet spot, do you deck it or float it a hair (e.g., ~1/16" up on the back)?

White 1988 model 1C Japan fulcrum i play 09.5 to .048 5 springs in both trems. Holds tune fine. Gotta find the sweet spot.
Red is modified 1986 model 2 ive had since 1999, got from Hersch @ Daddys Junky Music [closed now].
90's era EMG-81 from the old Mars Music. That era EMG has an Op amp that EMG no longer makes. New Emg's don't sound the same.
Im on my 3rd trem, currently a GOTOH 1996T. Was doweled for a Floyd [correctly] when i got it.
If you have the Kahler Spyder type trem and want a Floyd you'll have to dowel.
Both Basswood bodies, the 1C headstock was broke in 2 places and correcly repaired. It had so much dirt on it in a garage when i bought it
didn't see the breaks but gotta say rippi'n guitar ive had no issues other than i had to rewire it. Duncan SH-5 brdg in that.

Recommend a FR type string tree for the non-lock trems.
12 / 16 compound radius FB's. These necks smoke any Mexi Charvel.






These guitars are drying up and won't be around forever. YMMV.

 

[JeremyClow]

Thanks—that’s exactly what I needed. Good to know the Gotoh GE1996 dropped right onto the existing studs and worked great. A couple quick follow-ups:

- Did you keep the original behind-the-nut lock or swap to a locking nut (R3/R4) with the Gotoh?
- Are you floating the trem or decking it, and how many springs/tension?
- How do you like the Super 3 in that guitar for rhythm vs. lead? Thinking about one for a Model 3—curious how it pairs with the stock singles

 

[jchrisf]

Thanks—that’s exactly what I needed. Good to know the Gotoh GE1996 dropped right onto the existing studs and worked great. A couple quick follow-ups:

- Did you keep the original behind-the-nut lock or swap to a locking nut (R3/R4) with the Gotoh?
- Are you floating the trem or decking it, and how many springs/tension?
- How do you like the Super 3 in that guitar for rhythm vs. lead? Thinking about one for a Model 3—curious how it pairs with the stock singles

I kept the original.. not sure how hard it would be to swap out for the Gotoh but there is no problem with the original and I love how I can use a coin to tighten or un-tighten it and don't have to have a special tool.
I'm floating mine and used 3 springs. I love the Super 3 with certain amps but it can be a little brittle with others.. but if you get the right amp, it sounds amazing. It's been a while since I played it. It is stored away in my closet in the original silver case... back in the day when a $500 guitar came with a nice custom case. Back then, $500 was a lot for me at 18. I wanted one like the Model 3 with more pickups but couldn't swing it.

 

[Kapo_Polenton]

I put a Gotoh GE1996 trem in mine. It just dropped in place on the existing studs. The guitar feels and plays great and always has. It is a well built guitar and a tone machine. The stock pickups sound great but I did put a Super 3 in mine.

Love that red with the black headstock and headstock. Good to see Gotoh drops in no problem because those are lookers and i have considered one a few times. They seem to be all over in price though. I see them at 1000$ + now. Steep

 

[jchrisf]

Love that red with the black headstock and headstock. Good to see Gotoh drops in no problem because those are lookers and i have considered one a few times. They seem to be all over in price though.

Yeah that one looks good, that is not my guitar or my channel. I got a Pearl White one that is now Antique White with age... kind of yellowish like Randy's old LP.

 

[shar-vell Dan]

Thanks for the deep dive—super helpful. 5 springs with 9.5–48 and “find the sweet spot” is noted, and that EMG-81 tidbit is gold.

Quick Qs:
- For a Model 3: would you keep a healthy Kahler 2520 or JT‑6, or plan an OFR/GOTOH 1996T swap? Does the 2520 also require doweling, or just the Spyder?
- FR-style string tree: any specific model/height you like, and where do you place it for best break angle without binding?
- When you say sweet spot, do you deck it or float it a hair (e.g., ~1/16" up on the back)?

As long as the Kahler is functional and everything is up to snuff id make that work. A Floyd spacing will need dowels w/ the 2520.
FR tree would be the wider one slightly fan-spread. Not to low.
FR base plate should be parallel to the body.
Fulcrum style would rest 1/16th / 3/32nds-ish off the body. Not really "floating" just correct angle.
The Japan made Charvel "model series" fulcrum style way ahead of its time. Solid steel blocks.
Never need an F-spaced bucker with those. Regular space is fine.







https://vintagejapanguitars.com/charvel-1986-catalogue-vol-1/

https://charvelusa.com/charvel_models/charvel_1987_models.html

https://vintagejapanguitars.com/charvel-1988-pricelist/

 

[shar-vell Dan]

If the Kahler is F'd. Go full GOTOH. German FR are $300 the GOTOH is lower in price & better made.
Nobody beats Japan. Never have, never will. Most FR are garbage these days.
The GOTOH is floating and you will need a dowel job from the 2520. Not a huge deal.

GOTOH 1996T IS NOT direct drp in for Kahler Charvel model series. least not in my experience and you're prolly gonna need a FR nutt.
It IS drop in for most FR spacing.
Kahler & FR are almost always not compatable.