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Time flies, the DSL came out in 1997 :eek:

Yeah, the secret sauce probably once again is "bad" specs on input impedance, always warms things up a bit :giggle: I might try a buffer or buffered pedal in front and see how they behave.

As you can see I´m missing the top of the preamp knob of the PQ4, so I wasn´t 100% aware where I had it set in relation to the PQ3. I probably had the PQ4 turned up higher, and when checking the sweeps at bit closer the PQ3 has a gainier/woofier and warmer sound in the pre section. The PQ4 is a...

I stumbled across both of these almost simultaneously a while back, but never got around to hooking them up and doing some proper A-B testing with them. I´ll only be keeping one of them, if any, so we´ll see how this goes. First impressions are that they in fact are very similar and sound very...

Agreed, I have the Germino Masonette, which I always figured was made as a sort of Eddie thing without going the long way around and building a 100W amp just to variac it. A little bit of extra squish from the tube rectifier, puts out about 30-35W cranked. Really is something special.

The production model came out in 2010, and I seem to remember it going thru a few iterations/factory mods early on but settling down pretty fast.

I reached out to Tom Anderson to see if he remembers anything, and he said he made the ones for Elliot and a few for that first NAMM launch. The rest of them were ESP parts and built by Kramer. But whether Buddy made a few too, who knows, it´s almost 40 years ago and absolutely not much of a...

Yeah, they only made it for a bit over a year in 87-88, and I don´t know how well it sold. Could be fairly unusual, I guess, I haven´t seen that many around when compared to the rest of the American line of those years.

Thanks man! I don´t think 3 Monkeys is around anymore, but that is their Zé head. Basically a José clone they did a little run of maybe ten years ago. The Boogie is a 1985 III+ I got just this winter, best Boogie I ever had and I really dig it.

It´s on-off for the singles and on-off-split for the humbucker, the fourth switch is a master that goes between the setting of the other three toggles and just the humbucker in series. Sort of a lead-rhythm switch.

Yeah, I'm not a fan of the typical mini toggle set-up either, but I've used an Anderson with the Switcheroo system for well over ten years at this point and I think the main lead/rhythm toggle (as seen on this one too) does a lot of difference. The other Kramers didn't have that, neither did...

I´m a super strat guy all the way, but after all these years I don't think I ever had a Kramer before. This one popped up the other week and I took a flyer on it, I guess it's really not a typical Kramer and for good reason it's way more like a Tom Anderson instead since he made the prototypes...

Yeah, I´ve had a few of them over the years even if this is the only one I have now. Great unit with a very unique feel. Takes a bit of care to get them working like they should, for sure, and since a lot of people think even the dead-simple Floyd is hard to adjust I can see why many don´t like...

All american or japanese neckthru Jacksons have the serial on the fretboard overhang after the last fret.

1984 Greco RR model, I started playing in the early-mid 90s and never really got into the proper vintage stuff:

Yeah, the outputs are isolated so you can use a doubling cable to get 9V or 18V. I don´t know if there are tripling cables out there, but that would in any case overshoot 24V and get to 27V.

Yeah, finding the two-space versions shouldn´t be too difficult, I see the 2502 and the 2902 fairly regularly. The 2150 and Classic, well, that´s a very different thing today... but if you´re talking to Fryette about paying maybe $5000 for a new one you should be able to track a vintage one down...

Well, people go back and forth between scale lengths all the time, and since that difference in scale length is spread out across the whole string it doesn´t make that much difference on the spacing between two individual frets. Personally I don´t have any high fret issues on my 750 compared to...

The baseplates are tough to find these days, in Europe there used to be a few places that carried them but now they're just direct from Schaller as far as I know. Don't know the situation in the States, though, but I suppose you just as well could buy them from Germany without the middle-man.

Yeah, that happens to almost all the old Schallers. You can buy the current baseplates (with the added inserts for the intonation screws) as direct replacements, but they sell for €80 and upwards depending on finish. The black one is €115 factory direct, over half of what the whole unit costs. I...