Does Mesa Boogie seal the back of their 2x12 cabinet back panels?

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harddriver

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I just removed the back panel screws on a Roadster 2x12 and that back panel won't budge one bit. I really feels like it's sealed with something for some reason. I can't imagine it's such a tight fit that it won't move.

Anyway I was just curious?
 
Reported for being On Topic in the Off Topic section. Please have your thread moved to the appropriate forum - "Rig-Talk" or "Tech Corner".

No one in this sub-forum actually plays the guitar so I doubt they would ever have the need to replace cabinet speakers or work on them.

But because I'm a nice guy, I will tell you that there are some options. I had the same problem with my Avatar 2x12. Place a block of ice on the back panel at one corner and then heat up said corner of cabinet with a hair dryer. Then, get a putty knife, butter knife or flat head screw driver and pry that bitch open. OK, just kidding, that is a last resort. What I did was a "reverse punch". If the wiring plate is in the center, as it should be, you can try taking that off and then 'reverse punch' the back panel off. Also, I've heard of people getting a small jack of sorts and jack it off.
 
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I just removed the back panel screws on a Roadster 2x12 and that back panel won't budge one bit. I really feels like it's sealed with something for some reason. I can't imagine it's such a tight fit that it won't move.

Anyway I was just curious?

I had the same problem on my MESA 4x12 OS. I think I removed the jack plate so I had something to grab. I also think used some wood wedges in the seam on one side to jar it loose.


EDIT: I may have also used a large flat head with tape wrapped around the tip to pry.
 
Reported for being On Topic in the Off Topic section. Please have your thread moved to the appropriate forum - "General".

No one in this sub-forum actually plays the guitar so I doubt they would ever have the need to replace cabinet speakers or work on them.

But because I'm a nice guy, I will tell you that there are some options. I had the same problem with my Avatar 2x12. Place a block of ice on the back panel at one corner and then heat up said corner of cabinet with a hair dryer. Then, get a putty knife, butter knife or flat head screw driver and pry that bitch open. OK, just kidding, that is a last resort. What I did was a "reverse punch". If the wiring plate is in the center, as it should be, you can try taking that off and then 'reverse punch' the back panel off. Also, I've heard of people getting a small jack of sorts and jack it off.

Small jacks are my only option for jacking off
 
Seriously, the tolex and residual glue can make these cabinet backs hard to get off. A putty knife would be used to just giggle that apart all the way around. Then take off any handle or jack plates to get some leverage. With the right tools and a power drill you could something slightly different/similar.
 
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Seriously, the tolex and residual glue can make these cabinet backs hard to get off. A putty knife would be used to just giggle that apart all the way around. Then take off any handle or jack plates to get some leverage. With the right tools and power drill you could something slightly different/similar.

Taking off the plate is what I would recommend as well. Or leave the corner screws only half way out to give you some grip to pull up with
 
They use a caulk to hold the back panel on. I've had a few cabs with it.
 
Mesa does? Hmmm
My Mesa cabs had a thin bead of black sealant on the back cabinet. It was a bitch to remove. I did what was mentioned above, I took out the big square jack holder and pulled up until the seal broke.

I wouldn't be surprised that its either the sealant or two sticky surfaces of fresh tolex basically gluing the back onto the cab.
 
Yeah my OS 412 had that black caulking on it and it was no fun removing. I was going to reseal it but I played it after first and I didn’t really notice any difference in bass response so I left it alone.
 
Remove one of the side handles so you can tap it outward from the inside. Super easy.
 
never underestimate the power of your girls hair dryer. soften up the tolex and glue and it helps with removing those mesa back panels.
 
Guys, it takes like 2 minutes to take a handle off, then a whole 30 seconds to tap it outward from the inside.

Find anything solid like a 18-24"piece of broom handle or any other rod.
Place it through the handle hole with one end against the outer edge of the inside of the back panel.
Take a hammer or mallet and just barely tap the other end of the "rod"(piece of broom handle ect..).

Out cleanly in a jiffy with none of those prying marks or divots like you get when trying to pull it off.
 
I was able to knock it loose with a soft nose dead blow hammer.
What the fuck is that shit anyway. it was pretty uniform looking like they have a big roll of it.
 
Yup. Take out the side handle and hit the panel from the inside out. The front grill is even harder to take out
 
My Mesa cabs had a thin bead of black sealant on the back cabinet. It was a bitch to remove. I did what was mentioned above, I took out the big square jack holder and pulled up until the seal broke.

I wouldn't be surprised that its either the sealant or two sticky surfaces of fresh tolex basically gluing the back onto the cab.
Had the same black sealant on my 4x12 OS.

I usually unscrew the backpanel and then I screw in a screw that`s bigger than the original ones in one of the existing holes. That way, you have something to grab and pull. Just don`t screw in to far, the bigger screw should only grab the backpanel, but not the cab itself.

On a randall 2x12, everything was so tight, that I had to dismount the side handles. With a clamp in reverse mode and some square timbre, I had to push the backpanel out using the access hole where the handle was. Just be careful to not damage the speaker membranes with this method.
 
Had the same black sealant on my OS.

I usually unscrew and then I screw that`s bigger than the original ones in one of the existing holes. That way, you have something to grab and pull. Just don`t screw in to far.

everything was so tight, that I had to dismount. With a clamp in reverse mode and some square timbre, I had to push the back out using the access hole. Just be careful to not damage the membranes with this method.

Fixed for you….
Throw in some decent Caulk and we’re having a real shindig!
 
Unscrew the wiring plate and use that hole as a handle to pull the back off.
 
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