Does this Mark III sound right?

Well, your guitars and speakers should not be an issue. I would also remove all footswitches and use the pull knobs to channel switch, thus eliminating other variables. You do know that you can activate R2 while in the Lead channel for extra gain? Just pull out the MID pot. The effects loop issue is usually caused by a dirty or bent contact in the RETURN jack. Very common when someone leaves a patch cord plugged into this jack for extended periods of time.
 
mojotone":1z589tk7 said:
Well, your guitars and speakers should not be an issue. I would also remove all footswitches and use the pull knobs to channel switch, thus eliminating other variables. You do know that you can activate R2 while in the Lead channel for extra gain? Just pull out the MID pot. The effects loop issue is usually caused by a dirty or bent contact in the RETURN jack. Very common when someone leaves a patch cord plugged into this jack for extended periods of time.

I don't have the footswitches so that's not an issue. Didn't know about the mid pot adding more gain though. I tried the settings and it did seem to have more gain but not a lot more, also the effect loop trick, I'll have to A/B it a little more but I didn't notice much of a difference after a really quick test. I'll check out different tubes as well, but maybe the clarity of this amp just confuses me. So used to hearing fizzier overly saturated amps (5150, recto...) that this may just be an illusion.
 
I have to agree with most everyone else, there should be a good deal more gain on tap than that. I had a MarkIII red stripe that was an absolute wrecking ball :rock:

I find it curious that mostly everyone is using the presence low, mine I had to run it at about 4 o'clock before it would sharpen up enough for what I consider a good metal tone. Like others have said too, the treble knob adds gain.
 
jkkkjkhk":1t5ch21h said:
I don't have the footswitches so that's not an issue. Didn't know about the mid pot adding more gain though. I tried the settings and it did seem to have more gain but not a lot more, also the effect loop trick, I'll have to A/B it a little more but I didn't notice much of a difference after a really quick test. I'll check out different tubes as well, but maybe the clarity of this amp just confuses me. So used to hearing fizzier overly saturated amps (5150, recto...) that this may just be an illusion.

Using the treble shift pull will make it more saturated like a Recto or 5150.

But, I agree with this statement. This amp will sound like it has less gain than it really does because it is so clear. I used to use the treble shift pull and use a Tubescreamer into the front end to make it sound more modern. That's ultimately why I decided to part with mine. I was basically making it sound like my Triple Recto, so it became redundant. I kept the Triple and sold the Mark III.
 
jkkkjkhk":22rxtdbc said:
mojotone":22rxtdbc said:
Well, your guitars and speakers should not be an issue. I would also remove all footswitches and use the pull knobs to channel switch, thus eliminating other variables. You do know that you can activate R2 while in the Lead channel for extra gain? Just pull out the MID pot. The effects loop issue is usually caused by a dirty or bent contact in the RETURN jack. Very common when someone leaves a patch cord plugged into this jack for extended periods of time.

I don't have the footswitches so that's not an issue. Didn't know about the mid pot adding more gain though. I tried the settings and it did seem to have more gain but not a lot more, also the effect loop trick, I'll have to A/B it a little more but I didn't notice much of a difference after a really quick test. I'll check out different tubes as well, but maybe the clarity of this amp just confuses me. So used to hearing fizzier overly saturated amps (5150, recto...) that this may just be an illusion.


The max gain that you can get out of these amps is when you have the volume 1 on 10 , the lead drive on 8-10 and the Treble on 10. I would also recommend using the pull deep. If that doesn't yield enough gain to choke a horse then Id most definitely eat the $300 and send it to Mike B.

Another thing. The Speakers/cab used can most definitely have an impact on the gain and the percieved amount of gain.
I have well over 8 cabs and years of experimenting with speakers/cabs and I can tell you with 100% conviction that the cab/speakers matter BIGTIME.
 
mojotone":3a2fqpd3 said:
DSC03771.jpg


Try these settings, pull the Treble, Master 1, Lead Drive, AND Lead Master. Presence at 2-4 to taste. If it does not melt your face with gain and volume, something is WRONG. Sell the attenuator to help pay for the service at MESA. You won't need it after Mike gets done with the amp. What speakers and guitar/pickups are you using? It goes without saying, but remove any bullshit from the signal chain. Guitar>cable>amp>speaker cable>cabinet. In fact, I would attach a known good patch cord from the Send to Return of the effects loop. There are known issues at this junction. Good luck!

What happens when you pull the knobs out?
 
Yeah I had a Mark III red stripe....just pulled out all the knobs....cranked everything up....
and GOD DAMN it was a fierce flame thrower!! :rock:
Then I just dialed it back to a nice 'playable' setting... :LOL: :LOL:

But at 1st when I plugged in I was like WTF??? Couldnt get gain out of it either.
But about 20 minutes screwing around with it....it was a Metal Machine. Very high gain....crisp dynamics...
not muddy in the slightest. Sorta EVH meets Slayer tone. :D
Good luck on getting yours up and running the way you want it. :thumbsup:
 
newlyformedmind":138xsjgx said:
mojotone":138xsjgx said:
DSC03771.jpg


Try these settings, pull the Treble, Master 1, Lead Drive, AND Lead Master. Presence at 2-4 to taste. If it does not melt your face with gain and volume, something is WRONG. Sell the attenuator to help pay for the service at MESA. You won't need it after Mike gets done with the amp. What speakers and guitar/pickups are you using? It goes without saying, but remove any bullshit from the signal chain. Guitar>cable>amp>speaker cable>cabinet. In fact, I would attach a known good patch cord from the Send to Return of the effects loop. There are known issues at this junction. Good luck!

What happens when you pull the knobs out?

Treble is Pull Shift, only affects channel 3 (lead), adds gain and what they call balls so I'm guessing it gets thicker and more aggressive. Master 1 is Pull Deep, basically adds low end. Lead Drive activates the lead channel. Lead Master is Pull Bright, just adds brightness.

Volume 1 is Pull Bright (I believe it's only for channel 1). Bass is Pull Shift, also I think this only affect channel 1 and 2, not really sure what it does though. Mid activates channel 2.
 
Mailman1971":24h88n1v said:
Yeah I had a Mark III red stripe....just pulled out all the knobs....cranked everything up....
and GOD DAMN it was a fierce flame thrower!! :rock:
Then I just dialed it back to a nice 'playable' setting... :LOL: :LOL:

But at 1st when I plugged in I was like WTF??? Couldnt get gain out of it either.
But about 20 minutes screwing around with it....it was a Metal Machine. Very high gain....crisp dynamics...
not muddy in the slightest. Sorta EVH meets Slayer tone. :D
Good luck on getting yours up and running the way you want it. :thumbsup:

Thanks, where abouts in MI are you? I'm from Grand Rapids but moved to Tampa, FL last December.
 
jkkkjkhk":18ciic3z said:
Mailman1971":18ciic3z said:
Yeah I had a Mark III red stripe....just pulled out all the knobs....cranked everything up....
and GOD DAMN it was a fierce flame thrower!! :rock:
Then I just dialed it back to a nice 'playable' setting... :LOL: :LOL:

But at 1st when I plugged in I was like WTF??? Couldnt get gain out of it either.
But about 20 minutes screwing around with it....it was a Metal Machine. Very high gain....crisp dynamics...
not muddy in the slightest. Sorta EVH meets Slayer tone. :D
Good luck on getting yours up and running the way you want it. :thumbsup:

Thanks, where abouts in MI are you? I'm from Grand Rapids but moved to Tampa, FL last December.
I am in the Saginaw/Tri Cities area.
Right now it feels like Florida here...over 100 today. :(

:LOL: :LOL:
 
newlyformedmind":14zreu2r said:
What happens when you pull the knobs out?
Straight from the Mark III manual:

THE CONTROLS
Let's review the controls now, one at a time, to learn their various functions and see how they interact. Remember that the settings
listed are approximate.
VOLUME 1 This control is active in all three modes. It establishes the amplifier's basic gain, or sensitivity to your guitar's output. Most
players find a "sweet spot" around 7 which enables the amp to footswitch best between all three modes. Generally speaking, you
should find the highest setting possible that still gives you the desired degree of cleanliness in the Rhythm 1 mode. This allows you to
have the strongest possible signal feeding into the other two modes.
The response of the Volume knob increases rapidly above 7. You can also back off your guitar's volume slightly if you want to run the
amp Volume higher or if your pickups are real hot. Adjusting your pickup height from the fret board can make a big difference. Higher
settings (of everything) unleash a stronger response from Rhythm 2. All-out metal die-hards (who probably won't use Rhythm 1
anyway) may want to dial the Volume up to 9 or 10 for a heavy grinding "krang" similar to a great (or customized) Marshall. And yet
lower settings of the Volume will enable both rhythm modes to play clean, each with its own distinctive voicing.
The PULL BRIGHT adds sparkle to a clean Rhythm 2 sound and adds shimmer to a clean Rhythm 1 sound, producing the ultimate
Fendery Strat sound for funk riffs, country and pop rhythm playing. The effect of the Pull Bright diminishes as Volume 1 is turned up
and has no effect when the Volume is at 10
RECOMMENDED SETTING: 7, pulled out.
TREBLE This control is the most powerful of the three tone controls. At high settings (8 and above) it will minimize the effect of the
Bass and Middle, but they will become the stronger controls when the Treble is below 5. Again, most players find a sweet spot in the 6
to 8 range. Along with the Volume 1 sweet spot, these are the two most critical settings for maximum footswitching performance in all
three modes. The most hardcore metal tones may come at higher settings than the best jazz tones--but we have yet to find a player
who needs to footswitch instantly back and forth from Wes Montgomery to Motorhead! So don't worry about these sweet spots being
too restrictive or too hard to find. Many players alternate between Lead and just one or the other of the Rhythm modes. And top 40
players usually have no trouble switching among all three modes. All players can, of course, enhance performance by switching
pickups and/or adjusting their guitar's volume control.
The TREBLE SHIFT is one of the programmable controls. When pulled out, the effect becomes linked to the footswitch control buss
and automatically increases the upper-midrange drive in the Lead Mode only Treble Shift has no effect in either of the rhythm modes.
RECOMMENDED SETTING: 7, pulled out.
BASS This is a wide-ranging control that is very easy to use. Most players prefer to operate the Bass in the 0 to 4 range, pulled out for
single coil and pushed in for humbucking pickups. Higher settings of the Bass are good with very bright guitars like Telecasters, but
excess settings of Bass (especially with Humbuckers) can cause the Lead sound to become tubby and blurred.
RECOMMENDED SETTING: with Strat type, 4, out; with dual coil, 0-2.
MIDDLE This is the weakest of the three tone controls. Although its action may not seem dramatic, it will add in mid-range warmth
under normal settings of Treble and Bass. Its Pull-Switch activates the Rhythm 2 circuitry, which can also be controlled by the (optional)
Rhythm 2 footswitch. Top 40 players and others who need to footswitch between all three modes will definitely want this footswitch.
Many other players are content to footswitch between a clean and a lead (Rhythm 1 to Lead) or between a crunch and a lead (Rhythm
2 to Lead). When this is the case, the standard Lead/Rhythm footswitch can be used for switching back and forth while the appropriate
rhythm mode is selected by the pull switch on the Middle control.
RECOMMENDED SETTING: 5.
MASTER This control regulates the overall amplifier loudness and it remains functional in all modes. If it is set extremely low, it will
seem to reduce the loudness available from the Lead Mode. This is normal and not a problem since it can help to spread out the action
of the Lead Master. And at any setting, it is still possible to adjust the Lead Master so it can be louder, softer or the same as the
Rhythm loudness. When switching to Rhythm 2, automatic circuitry maintains the same level of Effects Send strength and loudness so
that a separate "Rhythm 2 Master" is not required.
The PULL DEEP built into the Master, is another simple and self explanatory control. Its main usefulness is in adding fatness and body
to single coil pickups.
RECOMMENDED SETTINGS of Master: usually around 1/2 to 3 1/2, rarely over 5 and never above 6 unless the Volume 1 and Lead
Drive controls are being turned down at the same time. At Master settings above 3, the Lead Bright should be pushed in.
LEAD DRIVE This knob adjusts the gain, sustain and sensitivity of the Lead Mode. Although it is responsive to the setting of Volume 1,
its range is so great that there is usually more than enough drive available regardless of how low Volume 1 is set. At very low settings
of Lead Drive it is still possible to obtain a relatively clean sound in the Lead Mode. Moderate settings (around 2 to 3, Treble Shift in)
produce a good blues sound...like a Fender turned up full ... and yet the authentic stringy sound of the guitar still comes through. As the
Lead Drive is increased, an entire musical range of great sustain and rich distortion harmonics is produced.
The PULL switch built into the Lead Drive control duplicates the function of the Lead/Rhythm footswitch. This separate switch is a
useful backup in case you lose your footswitch box or just don't need to change modes very often. The footswitch will work only when
the Lead Drive control is pushed in.
RECOMMENDED SETTING: Your choice-try 5.
LEAD MASTER This control regulates the loudness and is active in the Lead Mode only. Because it works at the same time as the
regular Master, whichever one is set lower will determine the maximum Lead Mode loudness. Its built-in Pull-Bright is only active for the
Lead Mode and is intended to add brightness when playing at softer volumes. As the amplifier is turned up louder and the power stage
begins to clip, the added brightness from the Lead preamp may cause premature squealing without adding any benefit to the tone--so
push it in when playing loud. This is especially true when Rhythm 2 and Lead are on at the same time.
 
jkkkjkhk":qhh1izje said:
mojotone":qhh1izje said:
DSC03771.jpg


Try these settings, pull the Treble, Master 1, Lead Drive, AND Lead Master. Presence at 2-4 to taste. If it does not melt your face with gain and volume, something is WRONG. Sell the attenuator to help pay for the service at MESA. You won't need it after Mike gets done with the amp. What speakers and guitar/pickups are you using? It goes without saying, but remove any bullshit from the signal chain. Guitar>cable>amp>speaker cable>cabinet. In fact, I would attach a known good patch cord from the Send to Return of the effects loop. There are known issues at this junction. Good luck!

I'll try this when I get home tonight. Oh but the rockcrusher stays. ;) I bought it for recording as a load box, not necessarily making my amp quiet. I'll be sending it to Mesa no matter what just to make it new again. Also haven't heard of the loop problem so I'll definitely check that out.

That setting would launch me away from my amp! I have a IIC simulclass and it is loud as hell! That should be face melting!! :rock: :rock: :rock:

I will be writing that check for $400 to get mine upgraded to a +. I know they do a III+ mod. Not sure if Mike does that himself or not.

Sweet rig btw.
 
Here's something you don't read much and maybe it's just cause the graphic eq on mine is jacked up or something, but mine sounds better with a Boss ge7 graphic eq in the loop. not sure why but it is way less fizzy sounding and just simply sounds better. I would not hesitate to buy a mark III without eq, just add one in the loop.
 
Heritage Softail":f4lww9rn said:
That setting would launch me away from my amp! I have a IIC simulclass and it is loud as hell! That should be face melting!! :rock: :rock: :rock:

Correct, anything less than 15' from the speakers will rip the flesh from your bones. Something to note here is that too much lead drive will destroy the dynamics of your rhythm tone in channel 3. I have started using an Xotic RC Booster to bring out the liquid lead while turning down the lead drive to around 4 to preserve clarity and dynamics while playing rhythm. I have used this approach with great success on a Mark III, as well. :thumbsup:
 
mojotone":398b11b0 said:
Heritage Softail":398b11b0 said:
That setting would launch me away from my amp! I have a IIC simulclass and it is loud as hell! That should be face melting!! :rock: :rock: :rock:

Correct, anything less than 15' from the speakers will rip the flesh from your bones. Something to note here is that too much lead drive will destroy the dynamics of your rhythm tone in channel 3. I have started using an Xotic RC Booster to bring out the liquid lead while turning down the lead drive to around 4 to preserve clarity and dynamics while playing rhythm. I have used this approach with great success on a Mark III, as well. :thumbsup:

Mojotone you have had both the III and IIC, if that is what I'm reading how would you compare the two?
 
sjk":28shta6n said:
Mojotone you have had both the III and IIC, if that is what I'm reading how would you compare the two?

There is no way in HELL that I would ever open that can of worms.
 
mojotone":1t9kaxql said:
sjk":1t9kaxql said:
Mojotone you have had both the III and IIC, if that is what I'm reading how would you compare the two?

There is no way in HELL that I would ever open that can of worms.

wtf, just a question dude, why so dramatic? This ain't the Boogie grail forums full of fanboy fanatics :LOL: :LOL:
 
sjk":2nsjxzt2 said:
mojotone":2nsjxzt2 said:
sjk":2nsjxzt2 said:
Mojotone you have had both the III and IIC, if that is what I'm reading how would you compare the two?

There is no way in HELL that I would ever open that can of worms.

wtf, just a question dude, why so dramatic? This ain't the Boogie grail forums full of fanboy fanatics :LOL: :LOL:
Hahaha! True dat! Those guys are WAYYYY to touchy about their little preciouses. Any time anybody asks about what sets these two amps apart you get two or three snobs that treat you like you just asked them for nekkid pics of their wives.
 
rocknrolla":31ofse1e said:
Here's a clip of MOP with just the guitars. They didn't use that much gain on this album it was just that every guitar was quad-tracked and they slaved the Boogie preamps into cranked EL34 power amps.
https://youtu.be/D47BgD04K-8

Actually only double tracked but yeah I have all those master tracks. I know damn near every specific of how both MOP and AJFA were recorded BEYOND just the notes Flemming posted. I actually got my most recent email from him today regarding a piece of the puzzle I've been trying to figure out for a few years.

But even compared to that my amp sounds like it needs to have the drive at 8 to get that gain, but they only had it at 5. There's a lot more pick and string noise and little nuances that come through with the gain around 5, but kinda disappear when it's closer to 8. Again could just be illusions though.
 
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