Marshall 2555x - are the current ones different than original reissue run?

[napalmdeath]

This is a 2017.

 

[fusedbrain]

I have one from very early in the first run in 2015.
Really ready good sounding amp, and has hung around here a long time, but there are some things to consider.
The early ones had an issue with the presence pot that Marshall refused to even acknowledge.
The pots failed at an alarming rate, causing the amp to suddenly sound extremely thin and weak.
Took my amp out too eventually.
This may have been part of the reason for the blow out, I don't know.
Anyway, it came to my attention that I could contact the Marshall distributor for Canada and order a new pot board for about $100, which i did.
Interestingly, they sent me the complete board assembly for the entire amp. Looks like the entire thing is fab'd at once, with little tabs connecting the main board, pot board and bias board and you carefully snap them apart.
Anyway, installed the new pot board, and amp sounds good as ever.
Yes, all the tubes are mounted to the main pcb, and the boards are connected with multi- conductor assemblies with header plugs and sockets ( i hesitate to call them ribbon cables, as they are individual conductors )
I will say that the pcbs are high quality and the best pcb I've seen in any Marshall amp ever.

I have no idea what, if any, the differences are between the first run, and the current ones, but I suspect the transformers are different.
The pcbs I got from Marshall were shipped to me early last year, and they are identical to the originals in my amp, so that part at least is the same.

 

[Deleted member 77333]

This is a 2017.

View attachment 416237

Looks like ribbon type molex connections not solder.

 

[Gitfiddler]

I had a Jubilee w/ matching 4x12 (V-30's) 10 years ago. Still one of my favorite Marshall amps with a Strat. I set it to Joe B's settings and barely touched it afterwards.
I don't recall ever bothering with the Clean side of it.
I would hit it with a Maxon SD-9 abnd it was a killer tone. Diodes were not a factor, to me. I thought it was a great sounding amp.
However, if you put the Gain control past 2:00, it started to sound bloated and not good clean-up off the guitar.
Vid is with an American Standerd Strat (Fat 50's) I hit the SD-9 at the end.

Sounds great!

 

[Devin]

AFAIK they are not constructed the exact same way, but they do essentially sound the same. Great amps!

Friend of mine has both the OG and the RI

 

[Techdeth]

The power section is essentially the same, the 2555x has much more responsive tone shaping and more gain. My understanding is the diodes are not in play on the clean channel with the rhythm clip not engaged. Obviously it has more gain than a 2203 and uses diodes on od channel.

It only has more gain because of the diodes right ?

 

[skoora]

I never said the amp wasn’t PCB. I said PTP Controls. Meaning chassis mounted pots with flying leads to a PCB board.

The post I responded too, you said “full” PTP, without qualifying just the controls so it inferred the entire amp to me, more so because you compared it to the Marshall plexi reissue and the only ones I’ve seen in stores for quite a few years are the handwired’s, not the PCB ones. Simple misunderstanding, no reason to be so defensive about it.

 

[blackba]

It only has more gain because of the diodes right ?

The rhythm clip adds diodes. the lead channel adds LED clipping and another half of a 12AX7 as an additional gain stage.

 

[LanierP]

I had a Jubilee w/ matching 4x12 (V-30's) 10 years ago. Still one of my favorite Marshall amps with a Strat. I set it to Joe B's settings and barely touched it afterwards.
I don't recall ever bothering with the Clean side of it.
I would hit it with a Maxon SD-9 abnd it was a killer tone. Diodes were not a factor, to me. I thought it was a great sounding amp.
However, if you put the Gain control past 2:00, it started to sound bloated and not good clean-up off the guitar.
Vid is with an American Standerd Strat (Fat 50's) I hit the SD-9 at the end.

I liked the 'Wait till tomorrow' riff you did here. Very cool tune. Sounds great!!!

 

[Techdeth]

The rhythm clip adds diodes. the lead channel adds LED clipping and another half of a 12AX7 as an additional gain stage.

Thanks

 

[Racerxrated]

It only has more gain because of the diodes right ?

No.

Jubilees without the rhythm clip pulled have a little more gain than a 2203/4. Then even more with the diodes engaged. They are by nature a darker Marshall than we are used to. The EQ is WAY more responsive than any other Marshall, and have almost Recto like low end available. Almost.
You'll still need to boost them for heavy stuff, but need less of a boost than a 2203.
One cool thing about the reissue is, you can use any Octal power tube in it....or, any 2 pairs. So, 2 6L6s with 2 EL34s...2 6550s with 2 KT88s....and, my favorite tube in that amp, all KT90s. Each pair is separately biased.

I A/Bd a 2555x with an original black tolex 2555 from 1988; they were almost identical until you really cranked them and then the old iron bloomed better than the 2555x. Still a killer amp and nearly spot on to the OG.

 

[degenaro]

They were advertised as I stated when they came out due to the increased adjusted labor costs. Surprised to hear that’s not the case - Is this hinting at the difference of the reissues now versus when they were originally released?

I was talking 2555 RI vs 2555x.

 

[Gitfiddler]

Is the 20W worth the $ savings vs the 100w version? Two completely different amps?

 

[67mike]

Is the 20W worth the $ savings vs the 100w version? Two completely different amps?

The 100watt amp has a half power switch, plus the 2555x has basically 3 master volumes....lol, so you can get it pretty quiet.

I would always get tge big iron amp, if possible.

 

[frontline205]

One of my absolute favorite lead sounds of all time was a 2555x, Maxon 808 and a brent hinds epiphone into a Greenback cab. One of the best lead guitar tones I ever had. Probably will be pretty hard to find another Brent Hinds epiphone but still great recording experience.

 

[napalmdeath]

Is the 20W worth the $ savings vs the 100w version? Two completely different amps?

The mini is no slouch. But, it needs volume to bring the goods. Crank the Output Master, and use the Lead Master for the volume. I never used the rhythm clip, I'd just hit it with a boost. The rhythm clips sounds like shit, IMO. I only used the dirty side, I didn't care about cleans.

The only thing I didn't like was cathode biased. You have to get seriously hot pairs of tubes for it's full potential. Like rated in the 50's..
Last one I had came with Tungsol EL34B's, and they were rated like 55. If you put a cold pair in, like 35, it's not going to sound as good. The ability to bias would make life much easier.

 

[blackba]

I like to run the output master about 6 and control the volume with the lead master. If you use the half power mode, plan to redial in the amp.

 

[Paul Afton]

I have one from very early in the first run in 2015.
Really ready good sounding amp, and has hung around here a long time, but there are some things to consider.
The early ones had an issue with the presence pot that Marshall refused to even acknowledge.
The pots failed at an alarming rate, causing the amp to suddenly sound extremely thin and weak.
Took my amp out too eventually.
This may have been part of the reason for the blow out, I don't know.
Anyway, it came to my attention that I could contact the Marshall distributor for Canada and order a new pot board for about $100, which i did.
Interestingly, they sent me the complete board assembly for the entire amp. Looks like the entire thing is fab'd at once, with little tabs connecting the main board, pot board and bias board and you carefully snap them apart.
Anyway, installed the new pot board, and amp sounds good as ever.
Yes, all the tubes are mounted to the main pcb, and the boards are connected with multi- conductor assemblies with header plugs and sockets ( i hesitate to call them ribbon cables, as they are individual conductors )
I will say that the pcbs are high quality and the best pcb I've seen in any Marshall amp ever.

I have no idea what, if any, the differences are between the first run, and the current ones, but I suspect the transformers are different.
The pcbs I got from Marshall were shipped to me early last year, and they are identical to the originals in my amp, so that part at least is the same.

Any chance you still have the bias board? I happen to need one for my 2555x, and Marshall support wasn't very helpful. They sent me a link to Marshall's Department store and told me to try there...unreal.

 

[fusedbrain]

Any chance you still have the bias board? I happen to need one for my 2555x, and Marshall support wasn't very helpful. They sent me a link to Marshall's Department store and told me to try there...unreal.

Yeah, I do.
What the hell happened to your bias board that you would need a new one?
Looks like you are a new member.
See if you can PM me, or post back here and I'll see if I can help ya out.

 

[Paul Afton]

Yeah, I do.
What the hell happened to your bias board that you would need a new one?
Looks like you are a new member.
See if you can PM me, or post back here and I'll see if I can help ya out.

Haha, Yes, I am new...so new that I can't Direct Message anyone yet. I am reconstructing a 2555x from 'leftover parts'. I got the all the PCB boards except the bias board for $45. They came out of a working amp that the guy's client gutted for a boutique handwired version (see attached). But, he ended up using the Bias Board in the build, so that leaves me with trying to source another one or try and work in Ceriatone's 2555 Bias design. I sourced original trannies from British Audio and all the other bits and pieces from Amplified Parts--I'm already $600 in--thats without a headshell.

One of my assumptions that went against me is that a schematic for the new 2555x would be available, but apparently the only official Marshall schematic is from the 80s. And, the boards being double sided and coated in black ups the challenge when tracing.