My beef with Carvin Guitars........

[Heritage Softail]

My beef with Carvin gear in general.... After you buy it, it isn't worth shit. Great gear. I had an old 100w half stack. But I could trade it and a buck for a cup of coffee.

True enough, but I personally could endure it if I could just get what I want. I'm really not looking to go with a plethora of features that can jack up the price real fast. Really just a more cheaper, stripped down model with the essentials that I require....Jumbo Stainless Steel frets for example.

I have only ever seen two used. They both played well. The last one I saw at guitar center was pretty beat up and ugly red. As far as playability, it was very good.

 

[snowdog]

Buy guitar - replace nut - have new nut made for 1-5/8 string spacing. $50. case closed.

 

[Tone Zone]

My beef with Carvin gear in general.... After you buy it, it isn't worth shit. Great gear. I had an old 100w half stack. But I could trade it and a buck for a cup of coffee.

True enough, but I personally could endure it if I could just get what I want. I'm really not looking to go with a plethora of features that can jack up the price real fast. Really just a more cheaper, stripped down model with the essentials that I require....Jumbo Stainless Steel frets for example.

I have only ever seen two used. They both played well. The last one I saw at guitar center was pretty beat up and ugly red. As far as playability, it was very good.

Yeah, I actually like the neck carves they come with. I had a C66 that I ordered and also a CT3 (that I kinda wish I kept). The C66 was nice, but I got to the point that I hated going back and forth from my Suhrs 1.65 NW.....it just bugged the shit out of me, especially for a shreddy type of guitar that the C66 is geared toward. I ended up selling it here. Back in the day, years ago, back when I was still experimenting in what I was looking for in a guitar, I had ordered two neckthru models to choose from. Back then, they didn't care if you ordered two and sent one back...no restocking fee or anything. In fact, the rep was the one that gave me the idea to just order two of them and send the one I didn't want back....as I was still going back and forth on options, finishes. In the end, I ended up sending both of them back as they didn't work for me...as I was coming to the realization that wasn't digging the tone I was hearing from neckthrus (also after owning an Ibanez RGT model back in the day). It's amazing they'd let you get away with that back in the day! I don't think they were really happy with the outcome! lol Now, if you order any custom job, I believe they tack on a hefty restocking fee....much less ordering two of them and sending them both back.

 

[C1-ocaster]

In this day and age, and in relative comparison to their competitors.....how come they are unable to offer a 1 5/8 nut width option? Just about everyone else does that I know of. I'd love to own another Carvin one day, specifically a Bolt model....but, until they offer this option, I'll have to pass. I know this isn't a problem for most people I suppose, as they are happy with their standard "1.69" nut width. But, I'm sure that I'm not the only one that would like to see this option available one day? Come on, Carvin!

Alright, rant over.......

Please explain why this is a problem for you?

I've been playing for like 35yrs and have played many different type guitars.
But I've never put much attention into fret number as related to scale length, or the neck radius, etc...
I can move from an LP to a Strat with no problems and then to 24 fret Ibanez semi hollow to my Schecter C1.
They have their own "feel" and playability.
But only recently have I been reading more into these details that contribute to how a guitar feels to a player.

I've been looking at ESP Eclipse/LP and LTD LP guitars and some have 22 frets and some 24 both with the same scale.
Now I understand why it makes a difference, especially for me as I tend to pick farther back towards the bridge.
With some guitars my right pick hand hits a bridge edge or something that is not comfortable, and it's about the scale and fret number and the relation of where various hardware pieces are then set.

The nut width question you bring up is new for me, so I'd like to hear more about what nut width means regarding feel and/or other playability things.

 

[Tone Zone]

Please explain why this is a problem for you?

I've been playing for like 35yrs and have played many different type guitars.
But I've never put much attention into fret number as related to scale length, or the neck radius, etc...
I can move from an LP to a Strat with no problems and then to 24 fret Ibanez semi hollow to my Schecter C1.
They have their own "feel" and playability.
But only recently have I been reading more into these details that contribute to how a guitar feels to a player.

I've been looking at ESP Eclipse/LP and LTD LP guitars and some have 22 frets and some 24 both with the same scale.
Now I understand why it makes a difference, especially for me as I tend to pick farther back towards the bridge.
With some guitars my right pick hand hits a bridge edge or something that is not comfortable, and it's about the scale and fret number and the relation of where various hardware pieces are then set.

The nut width question you bring up is new for me, so I'd like to hear more about what nut width means regarding feel and/or other playability things.

For most, I'm sure it's not a big deal. But, for me....over time, I've just become really particular about certain options (neck carve, fingerboard radius, frets, nut width etc). I've found when owning guitars that don't fall under what I really like feel wise....I get to where they stay in their case more and don't get played. And, then when I do play them, the difference is very noticeable to me. So, I'm just trying to stick with what I like as much as possible, that's all. Every time I've tried to compromise, the guitar ends up not getting played as much and eventually sold. I'm well aware that for most people, it doesn't matter to them in the least.

 

[Tuckerbomb]

I can certainly understand the neck not feeling right. As much as I love EBMM guitars, the necks just feel too small for my hand. At the same time, I can't stand the wide PRS necks either. Probably because I grew up on medium sized Ibanez necks. Even most Gibson's are too fat.
In the end, I've settled into my Carvin st300 (with the slimmer JB neck profile though!)

I say consider yourself lucky (or talented) if these slight variations don't trip up your playing.

 

[just42dave]

i guess im lucky

 

[C1-ocaster]

Please explain why this is a problem for you?

I've been playing for like 35yrs and have played many different type guitars.
But I've never put much attention into fret number as related to scale length, or the neck radius, etc...
I can move from an LP to a Strat with no problems and then to 24 fret Ibanez semi hollow to my Schecter C1.
They have their own "feel" and playability.
But only recently have I been reading more into these details that contribute to how a guitar feels to a player.

I've been looking at ESP Eclipse/LP and LTD LP guitars and some have 22 frets and some 24 both with the same scale.
Now I understand why it makes a difference, especially for me as I tend to pick farther back towards the bridge.
With some guitars my right pick hand hits a bridge edge or something that is not comfortable, and it's about the scale and fret number and the relation of where various hardware pieces are then set.

The nut width question you bring up is new for me, so I'd like to hear more about what nut width means regarding feel and/or other playability things.

For most, I'm sure it's not a big deal. But, for me....over time, I've just become really particular about certain options (neck carve, fingerboard radius, frets, nut width etc). I've found when owning guitars that don't fall under what I really like feel wise....I get to where they stay in their case more and don't get played. And, then when I do play them, the difference is very noticeable to me. So, I'm just trying to stick with what I like as much as possible, that's all. Every time I've tried to compromise, the guitar ends up not getting played as much and eventually sold. I'm well aware that for most people, it doesn't matter to them in the least.

Cool. I get it.
It's a "feel" think, and if it doesn't feel right, then it's not right.
For you, you happen to know what details will make a guitar more likable for you.

I just had an Ibanez AS153 and even though it's a beautiful guitar with great tone, I just couldn't get it set up to my liking.
So, it went back today. I decided to give Ibanez another try and ordered the smaller body AM153 to see/feel/hear if the difference is more to what I want.
The neck meets the smaller body at a different fret location so I'm hoping that change results is better feel for me.

Thanks for the explanation.

 

[dwizted]

I have two Carvin sevenstringers now and love them to death. So much so I sold my Mayones and BRJ and now looking to sell my BFR as I love the feel and playability more with these two. I know a lot of folks will think I am crazy but for me there just comfortable, built very well and the woods are all top knotch. You get a AAAAA quilt pretty much standard when you order a quilt top and cairo top was just figured. I just cant say enough good about them.

 

[Tone Zone]

I have two Carvin sevenstringers now and love them to death. So much so I sold my Mayones and BRJ and now looking to sell my BFR as I love the feel and playability more with these two. I know a lot of folks will think I am crazy but for me there just comfortable, built very well and the woods are all top knotch. You get a AAAAA quilt pretty much standard when you order a quilt top and cairo top was just figured. I just cant say enough good about them.

I don't think you're crazy at all. If you find something that you really like and it just happens to be that much cheaper than some of your more expensive guitars...then it's just a bonus. I found what I love in Suhr Guitars....just wish they were as cheap as Carvins.

 

[Dimebag11]

I'm also a big fan of 1 5/8 spacing . Does Warmoth make necks w true 1 5/8"? EBMM style? If so, I'd think of offing my Carvin for a Warmoth guitar. It's just so awkward going from my EBMM to my Carvin.

 

[shgshg]

My beef with EBMM is that they ONLY have 1 5/8 necks on the guitars I'm interested in. If the Axis had a 1 11/16 option I'd be all over it.

 

[rupe]

My amp tech said that the Carvin amps that have come across his bench were some of the most poorly constructed amps that he's seen. As good as some of them sound, they simply aren't built from quality components and have a high chance at failure under heavy gigging conditions.
I've never owned one of their amps so I can't comment, but some of their guitars that I've played were nice, although a bit "dead" feeling when unplugged (not very resonant).

 

[polaris20]

Carvin's signature measurements for their guitars are 25" scale necks with 1.69" nuts. It's their 'thing' so to speak.

Their "thing"?....please. When just about all other "custom" builders offer a choice in nut width, I don't see it as "their thing".....but, more like their stubbornness to adhere to industry standards across the field. And BTW, their Bolt guitars actually come with 25.5 scale necks.

True that their rigid that way, but that's be the trade mark Carvin Measurements for ages.

For true custom guitars, you have to go to Warmoth. They'll pretty much do whatever you ask.

I agree. Warmoth is going to be a lot better of a guitar anyway, IMO. I've had several Carvins, and none can possibly touch the Warmoths I've had, be it full custom or replacement necks for my Strats.

 

[Dimebag11]

Maybe I'll off mine for a Warmoth custom V.

 

[NinjaRaf]

Interesting. I doubt I could even tell the difference between the 2 nut spacings lol. In any case, I imagine if there hasn't been a huge demand for it, it's not something they are implementing.

 

[Dimebag11]

Interesting. I doubt I could even tell the difference between the 2 nut spacings lol. In any case, I imagine if there hasn't been a huge demand for it, it's not something they are implementing.

I can EASILY tell the difference between different nut spacings. Going from my EBMM to my Carvin immediately is a bit awkward, however if I start off playing my Carvin and go to my EBMM....I'm like "awwww this feel great!"

I have tiny hands lol

 

[Tone Zone]

Interesting. I doubt I could even tell the difference between the 2 nut spacings lol. In any case, I imagine if there hasn't been a huge demand for it, it's not something they are implementing.

I can EASILY tell the difference between different nut spacings. Going from my EBMM to my Carvin immediately is a bit awkward, however if I start off playing my Carvin and go to my EBMM....I'm like "awwww this feel great!"

I have tiny hands lol

THIS! ...And, I've actually got big hands. But, for whatever reason, I just feel more at home on a 1.65 or 1 5/8 nut width.

 

[Dimebag11]

Speak of which...how much do you think a stunning trans green quilt top CT-6 with a floyd would go for? There is no locking nut, but locking tuners, a 42mm brass block, and a tremelo-stopper.

 

[Tone Zone]

Speak of which...how much do you think a stunning trans green quilt top CT-6 with a floyd would go for? There is no locking nut, but locking tuners, a 42mm brass block, and a tremelo-stopper.

Man, I'm really not even sure. If I had to guess, around $1,100 - $1,200 or so?