NAD - Mesa Boogie Triple Rectifier Rev F (clips)

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Are you shure about the 6p3s? I read different things about the tube. Anodes work at 250V, however, a lot of people run them in their amps wirh 450V PV and they seem to work fine.
Gotta make sure they are the 6P3S-E, not the 6P3S. Either will work but the 6P3S-E is more rugged and handles higher PV. Mike B was actually the one to recommend the Sovtek 5881 when he upgrade my old 2B Coli to a C+. Then, I read about the military version from the early 90s .....crimped not welded plates to be super specific. They are still cheap compared to almost every other NOS power tube available. A quad for 100? Or less? Yep!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3894956442...58N78UR/llV7P9k6izttPYo0ar/g|tkp:BFBMsrOsh_5m
 
Go with TAD 6L6s, and maybe a genelex 12ax7 or 7025 in V1. Amp sounds perfect by the way, great tones!
Word of warning on any TAD stuff....Maybe 7 years ago the TAD 6L6 was a good choice. Per Mike B the supply of good TADs was waning....he wouldn't recommend any, this was back in 2019. Fast forward to 2 years ago...bought an MT100, came with TAD 6L6GC 'special order' or some shit....fired the amp up, and as soon as I took it off standby POOF there goes a TAD red base 'special order' 6L6. Redplated and took out a bias resistor.
Proving to me yet again that new production tubes are fucking GARBAGE.
Take your chances if you like.
 
Word of warning on any TAD stuff....Maybe 7 years ago the TAD 6L6 was a good choice. Per Mike B the supply of good TADs was waning....he wouldn't recommend any, this was back in 2019. Fast forward to 2 years ago...bought an MT100, came with TAD 6L6GC 'special order' or some shit....fired the amp up, and as soon as I took it off standby POOF there goes a TAD red base 'special order' 6L6. Redplated and took out a bias resistor.
Proving to me yet again that new production tubes are fucking GARBAGE.
Take your chances if you like.


Fair enough! I’ve never had those issues but of course that doesn’t mean they don’t exist. I know my homie mark lewis swears by them for his amps, and even had them put in his new signature amp with driftwood, which are obviously new production tubes. Either way, still good info to have and be aware of.
 
Are you shure about the 6p3s? I read different things about the tube. Anodes work at 250V, however, a lot of people run them in their amps wirh 450V PV and they seem to work fine.
I did some research - 6P3S-E is a military version and can handle 450-500v but the 6P3S can;t handle higher currents! @Racerxrated is right
 
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Go with TAD 6L6s, and maybe a genelex 12ax7 or 7025 in V1. Amp sounds perfect by the way, great tones!
thx for your kind words man! I am a fan of the recto clips you've posted in the past! I am working on a preamp test by the way !
I have 2 Chinese 7025s! I will test em and report back
 
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Fair enough! I’ve never had those issues but of course that doesn’t mean they don’t exist. I know my homie mark lewis swears by them for his amps, and even had them put in his new signature amp with driftwood, which are obviously new production tubes. Either way, still good info to have and be aware of.
PRS sent me another quad for free and fixed the bias resistor. They did sound good when I fired it up after the repair. But, I pulled them for the Wafer 5881s shortly after. I think those are the best deal in power tubes out there, as cheap as they are. Just have to wait for the delivery times as most are located in the Eu.
 
What about Tung Sol STRs? I think these are meant to be great as well
 
I did some research - 6P3S-E is a military version and can handle 450-500v but the 6P3S can;t handle higher currents! @Racerxrated is right
ok, years ago I bougth a quad of 6P3S-E but never dared to use them because of contradictory information about them. Below is the datasheet (in Russian). One number says 250V and another one says either 453V or 483V. Maybe one of our Russian RT members can chime in ;) ?
 

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ok, years ago I bougth a quad of 6P3S-E but never dared to use them because of contradictory information about them. Below is the datasheet (in Russian). One number says 250V and another one says either 453V or 483V. Maybe one of our Russian RT members can chime in ;) ?
According to chatGPT

Excellent eye — and this is a really important question. You’re not misreading it. Both numbers are there, and they mean different things

Let me decode it clearly.

🔍 Why you see​


On that Soviet sheet there are two different sections:

✅ 1. The 250 values​


These are the STANDARD OPERATING CONDITIONS they used for:

  • factory testing
  • datasheet measurements
  • guaranteed electrical parameters
So when it says things like:
  • plate 250 V
  • screen 250 V

that means:

👉 “If you run the tube at 250 V, these are the currents, gains, dissipation, etc.”


It does NOT mean “this is the maximum the tube can survive.”


It’s just the reference operating point.


All tube datasheets do this (even 12AX7 is usually specified at 250 V despite amps running them very differently).


⚠️ 2. The 453 K / 483 K values​


These are TEMPERATURE LIMITS, not voltages.


In the Russian text it says:


“Температура баллона и выводов, не более … 453 K / 483 K”

That means:


👉 Maximum glass/envelope temperature

  • 453 Kelvin ≈ 180°C
  • 483 Kelvin ≈ 210°C
So that number is telling you:

✔ how hot the tube is allowed to physically get
✔ not an electrical voltage rating

That’s why it’s written in K (Kelvin), not V.

So there is no 453 V or 483 V plate rating in that part. It’s heat, not voltage.

🧠 So what does this really mean for your Mesa?​

  • 250 V = test/reference point
  • 453–483 K = max safe glass temperature
  • The sheet does NOT clearly publish a Western-style “max plate voltage” like modern guitar datasheets.

This is why there has been debate for years about 6P3S-E in high-voltage amps.

🔥 The real-world reality (more important than paper)​


Despite conservative Soviet paperwork:


✔ thousands of people have run 6P3S-E in Triple Rectifiers, 5150s, Soldanos, Marshalls
✔ many for years without failure
✔ especially Reflector -E military stock

The -E version is significantly stronger than the basic 6P3S.


But also true:

⚠ they are not true 30W 6L6GC
⚠ they usually run hotter in Mesas
⚠ quality matching matters
⚠ some sets die early, others last forever
 
According to chatGPT

Excellent eye — and this is a really important question. You’re not misreading it. Both numbers are there, and they mean different things

Let me decode it clearly.

🔍 Why you see​


On that Soviet sheet there are two different sections:

✅ 1. The 250 values​


These are the STANDARD OPERATING CONDITIONS they used for:

  • factory testing
  • datasheet measurements
  • guaranteed electrical parameters
So when it says things like:
  • plate 250 V
  • screen 250 V

that means:

👉 “If you run the tube at 250 V, these are the currents, gains, dissipation, etc.”


It does NOT mean “this is the maximum the tube can survive.”


It’s just the reference operating point.


All tube datasheets do this (even 12AX7 is usually specified at 250 V despite amps running them very differently).


⚠️ 2. The 453 K / 483 K values​


These are TEMPERATURE LIMITS, not voltages.


In the Russian text it says:




That means:


👉 Maximum glass/envelope temperature

  • 453 Kelvin ≈ 180°C
  • 483 Kelvin ≈ 210°C
So that number is telling you:

✔ how hot the tube is allowed to physically get
✔ not an electrical voltage rating

That’s why it’s written in K (Kelvin), not V.

So there is no 453 V or 483 V plate rating in that part. It’s heat, not voltage.

🧠 So what does this really mean for your Mesa?​

  • 250 V = test/reference point
  • 453–483 K = max safe glass temperature
  • The sheet does NOT clearly publish a Western-style “max plate voltage” like modern guitar datasheets.

This is why there has been debate for years about 6P3S-E in high-voltage amps.

🔥 The real-world reality (more important than paper)​


Despite conservative Soviet paperwork:


✔ thousands of people have run 6P3S-E in Triple Rectifiers, 5150s, Soldanos, Marshalls
✔ many for years without failure
✔ especially Reflector -E military stock

The -E version is significantly stronger than the basic 6P3S.


But also true:

⚠ they are not true 30W 6L6GC
⚠ they usually run hotter in Mesas
⚠ quality matching matters
⚠ some sets die early, others last forever
Thanks man, that`s really good clarification. I was just able to "read" the word anoda and based some silly asumptions on it
 
Thanks man, that`s really good clarification. I was just able to "read" the word anoda and based some silly asumptions on it
You are welcome! Thanks for the datasheet by the way! I will probably go for a sextet as they are much cheaper than STRs and I'd like to experiment!
 
Word of warning on any TAD stuff....Maybe 7 years ago the TAD 6L6 was a good choice. Per Mike B the supply of good TADs was waning....he wouldn't recommend any, this was back in 2019. Fast forward to 2 years ago...bought an MT100, came with TAD 6L6GC 'special order' or some shit....fired the amp up, and as soon as I took it off standby POOF there goes a TAD red base 'special order' 6L6. Redplated and took out a bias resistor.
Proving to me yet again that new production tubes are fucking GARBAGE.
Take your chances if you like.
@Racerxrated TAD 6L6GCM-STR's sound good, but their QC a while back wasn't good. I remember hanging out with Mike at his bench when Mesa started buying the STR 448 (aka TAD 6L6GCM-STR redbase) in bulk. We both thought they were great sounding tubes and had a higher rated plate voltage 550vdc.

BUT... their manufcaturer (PSVANE) started to let Quality Control slip for a while. If I remember right, Mesa started only selling the JJ's STR-445's shortly after. It took them a while to start buying STR-448's again. Tubes were failing out of the box. I had 2 Quads where this occured. I contacted Tube Amp Doctor to replace them and they had 2 new 6L6's on my doorstep in California from Germany in 2 days. Their customer service was mind blowing.

IMHO, tubes manufactured in China (Shuguang and Psvane factories) have had hit or miss quality control over the years. I'm sure the same can be said for most companies. I had a similar issue with The Tube Store's blue base 6L6GC's back in the day (Shuguang). I had a bad quad, but got replacements that were solid. Not sure if it is the sheer volume of tubes they're pumping out in China or if it is just the luck of the draw.

I can say JJ 6L6GC's are good sounding tubes and sturdy too. They have a 550vdc plate rating. Per Mike, he recommends the JJ. The price point is great, they're a tough tube and they sound good. As for the Military Grade Sovtek 5881's, they're built like brick shitters. I know Mesa used to recommend them back in the day as an alternative to the STR-415 Sylvania's.
 
Yes! They are the military version of the Sovtek 5881 wafer bottom tubes. They handle high PV and last forever. Or, they last longer than most 6L6/5881 types that aren't vintage. I honestly didn't hear much difference in my C+ Coli when A/Bing them with Mesa STR 415s(Sylvania 6L6GC from 60s/70s).
Sweet. Think I'll pop for a quad or 2 for the SLO. Good info, thanks!
 
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