New headshell for Ultra Lead

[moronmountain]

So I wanted to make a deeper headshell for my UL so my Bogner could sit on top of it, and so they also would have a similar profile sitting next to each other. I figured having the power tubes more covered could cause heat issues, so I added vents on top of them. I also offset the handle so the head would carry evenly, since UL's are lopsided weight-wise. My UL has white knobs, and I always wondered what it would look like with white vinyl, so I did that as well. I plan on having a custom faceplate made at a local cnc shop at some point, but I just used some cheap mesh stuff from Lowe's for now. I still have some details to take care of, but it's mostly finished. It's my first tolex job, so it's not the greatest, but it looks good from more than 2 feet away.

 

[moronmountain]

[No message]

 

[OUTLAW1969]

Nice job !

 

[benduncan]

Wow, that doesn't look like a Pittbull I love things that are different, good job. I really want to get a new shell/tolex for my Rectifier someday. The wood came panels have come apart on the right bottom corner. I have to carry it from the bottom otherwise the whole thing would rip apart and the chassis would fall out, lol. How hard was it? I'm pretty handy but I'd probably be too afraid to do this to my rec myself

 

[Devilinside]

Wow, that's very nice!!!

 

[moronmountain]

Wow, that doesn't look like a Pittbull I love things that are different, good job. I really want to get a new shell/tolex for my Rectifier someday. The wood came panels have come apart on the right bottom corner. I have to carry it from the bottom otherwise the whole thing would rip apart and the chassis would fall out, lol. How hard was it? I'm pretty handy but I'd probably be too afraid to do this to my rec myself

It was actually kind of a PITA lol! I think if I did another one it would be much easier though. You will need a router, corner/square clamps, lots of clamps in general, and good measuring skills. Mine was a bit tougher than it needed to be, because I took an inch off the width, so the tolerances were REALLY tight. Watch some YT vids on making a box using rabbet joints, and that will give you an idea on where to start.

I used spray adhesive for the tolex, and if I did it again, I would use glue like they sell at mojotone. The spray stuff gets everywhere, and you end up doing a lot of rubbing with mineral oil to get it off. Also, you will need to get a decent amount of copper or aluminum shielding tape to cover the inside/bottom of the shell. I don't know if all amp makers use it, but Fryette does and they are super quiet amps.

 

[locoed]

I like it in white, looks good.
Not sure if Steve makes other colors but he prob
Should, black gets boring.

 

[yngzaklynch]

Nice! Love the VHT/Fryette stuff

 

[bubbastain]

Where's the cup holder?

 

[moronmountain]

Thanks guys. I mostly did it so my amps would stack nicer. The UL looked funny sitting on top of the Twin Jet because it's wider, so I knew I wanted to make the UL shell the same depth. In the process I shaved off some height and width as well, which left the UL a single inch wider (started out 2 inches wider) and 1/4" taller (started out an inch taller) than the Bogner. After adding 1.5" depth to the UL, they are both now just over 10" deep. They look much better sitting next to each other, and I can stack them either way now w/out worrying about them falling over or looking silly. I'm glad I added the vents to the top of the UL, because the power tubes are more tucked away than before, and I didn't want them overheating. After having said all that, the biggest practical benefit was moving the handle. OMG it makes the thing actually seem lighter!

 

[moronmountain]

Where's the cup holder?

Heh can't have one now with the vents on top.

 

[moronmountain]

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[Sworn Virgin]

I am in the process of converting my RM80 combo into a head. I am inspired by your work!

 

[moronmountain]

I am in the process of converting my RM80 combo into a head. I am inspired by your work!

Thanks man. I glued the Pittbull emblem on it last night, and put the chassis bolts in. I'm not 100% with were it sits in the shell, as I could've got 1/8" or so more forward. I s'pose I will have to lengthen the holes in the headshell so I can scooch it forward a tad.