What's Your Neck Relief Measuring System

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Junk Yard Dog

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Just curious. My luthier is teaching me how to make my own minor adjustments on relief. I have a pad I put on my small kitchen island, but curious how you guys do it and if you have a guitar bench and use rulers, action gauges, the Stewmac relief gauge, etc.

Cheers.
 
I typically eyeball it from the headstock down. I can certainly see the relief. Also, pinky on the my right hand at the 15th fret stretching my index finger tapping the the 7th fret. While holding the first fret. Also the ultimate judge is feel.
 
24" stainless Architect gauge down the neck in between the G and D. Measure with feeler gauge at the 7th. I like .009. Some guitars need a little tweak from there, but usually not much at all.
 
I just eye ball it and go by how much fret buzz I can tolerate.
 
glip22":f1tfjmq2 said:
24" stainless Architect gauge down the neck in between the G and D. Measure with feeler gauge at the 7th. I like .009. Some guitars need a little tweak from there, but usually not much at all.

Interesting you like .009. What does that feel like based on the string gauge and tuning you like it set with?

I'm usually at .005 on all of mine, but I'm finding some like .003 and others .06. Every guitar is different. I play 10-52 in E and Eflat and .005 seems to work well.

I like low enough action so I can do big bends, but not so low that I've got fret buzz everywhere. I always thought the more relief you have, the more "slinky" your strings can feel without having to set them so low on the lower frets, but you may have some buzz on the upper frets, so it's a balancing act.
 
I’ve never measured. For me, there’s no need to. I shoot for as little relief as possible so every guitar is slightly different I guess.
 
Junk Yard Dog":hhws8tke said:
glip22":hhws8tke said:
24" stainless Architect gauge down the neck in between the G and D. Measure with feeler gauge at the 7th. I like .009. Some guitars need a little tweak from there, but usually not much at all.

Interesting you like .009. What does that feel like based on the string gauge and tuning you like it set with?

I'm usually at .005 on all of mine, but I'm finding some like .003 and others .06. Every guitar is different. I play 10-52 in E and Eflat and .005 seems to work well.

I like low enough action so I can do big bends, but not so low that I've got fret buzz everywhere. I always thought the more relief you have, the more "slinky" your strings can feel without having to set them so low on the lower frets, but you may have some buzz on the upper frets, so it's a balancing act.
To me it feels like a pretty straight neck. .003-.005 is very straight. I go for zero buzz in my setups. I also check my frets with my rocker and adjust them if necessary.
 
Hold down the low E string at the 1st fret and around the 15th. Tap in the middle to see how much bounce there is. Should be a little bit of bounce. Shouldn't have the strings basically on the frets at that point or too high off either. Always good to check the neck as well by looking down the fingerboard from the nut to the bridge on one side, then the other. That helps you see the true of the neck.
 
Junk Yard Dog":24jtjyt0 said:
Just curious. My luthier is teaching me how to make my own minor adjustments on relief. I have a pad I put on my small kitchen island, but curious how you guys do it and if you have a guitar bench and use rulers, action gauges, the Stewmac relief gauge, etc.

Cheers.

Easy method I've used for forty years. Make sure the neck isn't bowed/warped and the frets are dressed. Set the action height, then measure the 9th-12th fret area to have the thickness of your G string for relief. Why? Because that will compensate for the middle of your string gauge and be a good average between wound and plain strings.

Sometimes you can get away with less, say ,010, but generally .015 to .017 is the right amount of relief. Of course your wound strings will have higher action because they vibrate/move more than the plain strings. Adjust the neck so you have minimal or no buzzing, and of course have your strings tuned to pitch, or wherever you play it. Stop screwing with the neck relief, set the intonation, make sure nothing buzzes at the neck and you're good.
 
This is the method I have used for years, from the Suhr Forum where Ed Yoon from Suhr gave these instructions:

http://online-discussion.com/Suhr/viewtopic.php?t=1185&highlight=


As for the basic set-up procedure, it's essentially the same at most companies. As you know, John and I have an extensive background at Fender and our set-up criteria would be very similar.

First off, the guitar should be tuned to pitch so the neck has the proper amount of tension.

Next thing to check is the neck relief. John and our master builders are experienced enough to eyeball the relief, but to be sure, you can capo the first fret, press down on the low-E at the last fret and use a mechanics feeler gauge to measure the gap between the bottom of the low-E string and the top of the 7th fret. Fender's factory spec is .010" with a tolerance of +/- .002". John tends to set it at around .006". I tend to set it almost perfectly straight on my personal guitar since I play with a light touch. If you hit chords hard on the lower register, you may want to increase the relief to .010 or even higher. There is no hard rule to these settings - it's about what works best for your style of playing.

The action is set at 1/16" (4/64") at the last fret (bottom of the strings to the top of the fret). Again, depending on your style and touch, you may want to lower or raise the saddles. I set it at 3/64", which is pretty low, but because I use a fairly light touch, I don't have any fret buzz problems. In general, I think most people would be fine with 4~5/64" at the last fret. Some companies measure the action at the 12th fret (Ibanez) and some at the 17th fret (the neck-body joint). Ultimately, it's whatever feels most comfortable to you. Some players raise the action as high as 7/64" at the last fret.

The nut height is set at around .005". This work is best left to techs and luthiers if you're not sure about cutting nut slots. If you press down on the 3rd fret you need to see something between the first fret and the string. If you cut the slot too deep, you'll have no choice but to replace the whole nut. Filling in the slots with crazy glue and plastic dust is okay on $200 import guitars, but you wouldn't want to do that on a Suhr or other nice guitars!

The single-coil pickup height is roughly set at 1/8" from the bottom of the low-E string to the top of pole piece on the bass side and 3/32" on the high-E for the treble side. This is with the strings depressed at the last fret. This is a good starting point to move the pickups further away from the strings to balance the output of the different position pickups. You wouldn't want to get it any closer since the single-coil polepiece magnets can drag on the string vibration and cause lose of sustain and weird double-notes to sound.

For the humbuckers, you have much more leeway as they have much less magnetic pull than the single-coil pickups. A good starting point is 5/64" on the bass side and 3/64" on the treble side. Some players raise the pickups as close as possible to the strings and some lower them to the point that they're level with the body. Once again, the adjustability is there so you can set these things to suit your taste. Don't be afraid to experiment! Our factory setup is a good starting point and most people seem quite happy with it but it's not for everyone. I like my action even lower than John would normally set it and some are going to want it higher. Find what works the best for you.
 
What area of the neck is getting corrected and does truss rod type matter? My very limited understanding is that the truss rod only corrects the center area and by the time you are above say the 14th fret or so it doesn't really do anything. Some try to incorporate fall away for the highest frets since the truss rod doesn't do anything up there.

I've been setting my guitars up for decades and sometimes I feel it's like a sandwich. It's usually better when somebody else makes it. :lol: :LOL:
 
All really good info here so thanks for continuing the thread with helpful tips and opinions.

I too have the Stewmac relief gauge on the way.
 
I have the stewmac straightedge and I use a feeler gauge when I want to verify it.
I have one of the neck gauges as well that they sell which I got a long while back. It works great as well.

I don't check them often, only when I start to get some buzz. Usually a slight change to each neck in the spring and fall.
My roasted CSs don't move at all!
 
Another tip is to adjust/match bridge radius to the end of the fretboard radius, use the end of the fretboard because some necks have a compound radius. Most people don't do this but I think it is very important. I set my relief with a stew mac straight edge and feeler gauges.

Chuck
 
Seitz333":29vwljkj said:
Another tip is to adjust/match bridge radius to the end of the fretboard radius, use the end of the fretboard because some necks have a compound radius. Most people don't do this but I think it is very important. I set my relief with a stew mac straight edge and feeler gauges.

Chuck
I asked Warmoth about this and got a very unsatisfying (flat out wrong imo) answer.

It seems to me that if you have a compound radius (let's use Warmoth's 10"-16" for example) then the radius is 10" at the nut and 16" at the 22nd fret...and higher than 16" at the bridge. Think about it, the radius is flattening as you go up the neck, it doesn't magically stop at the 22nd fret.

The actual radius at the bridge is simple arithmetic but you have to take some measurements.
 
Capo on the 1st fret. I fret the low E somewhere around the 15th fret or where the body meets the neck (if it's closer than the 15th). I use a feeler gauge at the 7th fret and go for .010"

I measure nut slot height with nothing fretted and strung to pitch. I shoot for between .018-.020" over the 1st fret.

I respect people who do it by feel. I prefer to have base numbers to work from and can then adjust a guitar from there. I've found that I like 90%+ guitars with the base setup.
 
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