Wizard W800 gutshots

* velcro-fly * said:
Let me be clear for you - I’ll cut you some slack because you’re an Aussie who prob has a few bush pigs on hold to tend to 😂

Get back to us after you’ve actually plugged a guitar into the little holes on the front of the amp and used your ears to make an informed decision. Otherwise, to paraphrase, ‘it doesn’t look like it sounds very good’ is a pretty dumb mindset.
Click to expand...
Strewth! 🙃
 
FourT6and2 said:
The new version of the SLO has an improved layout/PCB and they even used modern relays :)

IMG_1104_web.jpg



And here's a really nice SLO PCB (technically it's a printed turret board with double thru-plating!) with very high-quality components. And guess what... it's from a *gasp* DIY'er!

pa4_by_haftelm_dbcs1ka-pre.jpg



Mako also uses high-quality printed turret boards with double plated thru-holes and flying leads. Very nice. Mako's non PTB construction is also impressive. You can tell the builder actually cares about his craft. It's a labor of love.

29234_387645670377_1909598_n.jpg

dodo3.jpg

mak2finland2.jpg
Click to expand...
Really clean. Never got to play a Mako
 
This printed turret board is pretty clean looking also. Is that line across the top and right the "ground bus"? Forgive my ignorance.
 

Attachments

  • pa4_by_haftelm_dbcs1ka-pre.jpg
    pa4_by_haftelm_dbcs1ka-pre.jpg
    131.4 KB · Views: 43
Smashedguitarist said:
This printed turret board is pretty clean looking also. Is that line across the top and right the "ground bus"? Forgive my ignorance.
Click to expand...

Interesting that nothing looks to be connected to it. It is a bus and may be just tying together separate traces on the PCB.

Usually a buss will be tied to stuff and not just PCB turrets/pads. (ime)

supro_02_big.jpg
 
Last edited:
glpg80 said:
Cheap ass chinese filter caps for bias supply voltage and what I assume to be remedial DC voltage regulators for relay control and/heaters. Can’t even splurge on nice Nichicon or Panasonic caps?

Poorly wrapped wiring that’s lazy - attention to detail is wrapping them before wiring into the amp for cleanliness.

Wires through the chassis without protective grommets to prevent chafing and accidental short to ground. Talk about a huge NoNo.

More ground connections on the chassis than I can shake a stick at. I have 5 in my amplifier, total, that’s it. I follow Larry’s grounding scheme and general knowledge of limiting ground plane cross currents to prevent ground loops.

I see wiring wrapped close to high wattage resistors. Usually heat can cause problems long term to wiring causing sagging and/or shorts.

That’s just 30 seconds worth of looking.

He has some quality components but I don’t see $5000. I look at Larry’s stuff and you could eat off of it. Not a single part or wire is placed without purpose.
Click to expand...
Where in those pictures do you see wires through the chassis with no grommets?
 
Last edited:
Donnie B. said:
Interesting that nothing looks to be connected to it. It is a bus and may be just tying together separate traces on the PCB.

Usually a buss will be tied to stuff and not just PCB turrets/pads. (ime)
Click to expand...

It's just not installed in the amp yet lol. Eventually a bunch of stuff would be attached to it.
 


This is a good idea of boosted vs non boosted sound of the amp. 16 seconds the boost comes on. I mean. I feel like it is pretty obvious that unboosted is first, but I want to be pretty transparent with it.
 
I just grabbed a second Duncan 805 and tried double boosting the MCII...whoa!!! Never tried two boosts stacked, but it super saturates the Wizard adding significant compression and grease. Cuts the lows even more than the single boost though and narrows the tone but with the ISP sub I can add extreme low end back in for a crazy thick tight gained out Wizard tone...interesting.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top