A tale of a noisy hissy vintage 1972 Marshall!

harddriver

Well-known member
So I have had this 1972 JMP 50 watter (last of the PTP boards into 1973) for many years, I inherited the amp from my best friend who passed away tragically so it is a very sentimental amp to me. It has always been a pretty aggressive harsher more strident sounding Marshall as were alot of Metal panel amps compared to my 68 plexi and it was also kinda noisy and hissy for as long as I can remember. The amp has 20 year old plus LCR filter caps and it had the original 46 year old Erie 320uf electrolytic cap on V1A and Erie 10uf/150V electrolytic bias supply caps. I always just kept an eye on the bias caps for obvious leakage but I had the"if it ain't broke don't fix it" for originality sake. So since we're all amp-heads here I wanted to share the results of my experiment which may be helpful to others.

I finally decided it was time to see if I could address the hissy/noisey nature of this amp and see what effects some simple maintenance would do out of curiosity. I actually was considering changing out the aged LCR's with new ARS filter caps but I want to see what these changes would do first. I changed out the Erie bias supply caps (which also showed no signs of leakage or bulging) for new Sprague atom 10uf's and I found the V1A Erie 320uf cathode cap while not actively leaking electrolyte there were hints of a dried yellow substance on the end of the cap, I thought it might be leaking DC which contributes to noise and DC on the pots, so I changed it out for an NOS BC 330uf cap. This amp has a Lemco Mica 500pf cap on the tonestack but a factory installed 500pf small diameter ceramic disc bypass cap on the 470K mixer resistor for the bright channel. 1969 Superleads onward also could have the red Lemco dogbone ceramic caps in the tonestack and mixer bypass cap here as well as Lemco/RS micas and ceramic disc caps, it just depends on what Marshall had on hand when the amps were built. On my 69 Superlead build I was running an 560pf RS mica cap on the tonestack and a 560pf ceramic cap on the 470K mixer and the amp was more harsh than my 68 that has Lemco mica caps in both positions, after I changed out that ceramic for another RS 560pf mica cap the amp sounded like my 68 and was no longer harsh. So I thought that the ceramic cap here in the 72 probably was contributing to its harsh qualities as well. I changed out the ceramic 500pf mixer bypass cap for an old CDE 560pf silver mica cap. Old ceramic caps are also known to leak DC causing noise. So here is the complete list of items changed on the 72.

10uf bias supply caps
320uf V1A cathode bypass cap
500pf ceramic cap

The results were amazing, I was actually pretty shocked...The amp is no longer the hiss queen that it was, and it seems any gain related oscillations and preamp tube plate ring that were there before the changes are now dampened quite nicely plus the amp is no longer the harsh metal panel that it was , it sounds more pleasing and in line with my 68 plexi and 69SL. So if you have an old Metal panel or later Marshall that's harsh you might want to see what type of mixer and tonestack caps it has as well as the age of the V1A cathode and bias supply caps. I also won't delay changing out the bias supply caps or extremely aged electrolytic cathode caps in the future, I always knew they should be changed at least every 10-30 years and the results of the experiment seems to prove the wisdom to be true. I did not test to see if these caps were leaking DC because I was changing them regardless, but with the great reduction in noise I have to assume there was some DC leakage going on. :rock:
 
It’s amazing how different types of caps can change the sound. Back in the day it’s seems they thought a cap is just a cap and all were created equal.

Glad the amp is sounding great.
 
That's awesome man!

I have a couple amps in their late 20's, and while their not noisy or harsh I thought of changing caps just as a preventative maintenance measure. Can caps going bad lead/cause other component problems/failures?
 
Yeah the tone stack treble cap and treble peaking cap in the voltage divider play a pivotal role in the character of the amp. A lot of people say a cap is just a cap and they all sound the same. But in these positions, it matters. That's why when I build an amp, I always leave these positions open so I can swap in a bunch of different caps to audio test before finding ones that I solder in. Same goes for the bright cap, presence cap, and depth cap. Each and every amp is different. Even of the same model.
 
I was always warned about the bias supply capacitors going bad, I guess they tend to explode and make a mess in the amp when they do. I had to look hard at the V1A Erie but once I saw the yellow residue I just figured it had to come out too.

This particular Marshall had clear silicone RTV used on the the V1A cap to the amp chassis and board and the bias supply caps had silicone on the sides of them to the board. The .022uf caps for the tonestack circuit has some squeezed out on them as well. I have never seen a factory Marshall amp where this was done but it looks original to the assembly of this amp or I'm guessing some tech did it years ago, I know Mark Cameron did not work for Marshall back then. :LOL: :LOL: My friend bought this amp around 1979.

It's not uncommon to see old Marshall's with the original Erie and Daly electrolytic filter caps and cathode caps to this day but I guess they would be on borrowed time at this point in their life cycle. I have a set of Daly's that I pulled out of a 50 watter that look great but I doubt I would ever reuse them.
 
Can you guys circle the tone stack treble cap on this ST 1 board:

UhFlUSql.jpg
 
Just to the right of the Marshall ST1 letters are the .022 gray tonestack couping caps, just above them the dark brown/black rectangular cap is the Tonestack capacitor and it look like it's a silver mica cap, and your cap on your 470K mixer and the Phase Inverter fizz cap are silver mica as well. If they have a CD or CDE letters on them they are cornell dublier and very good caps to have, either way they look like good quality micas.

The only ceramic caps I see in your amp is the bypass cap on the 470K resistor and bright cap on your preamp gain pot, they are desirable in these positions. Your amp is a JCM800 2203.

Marshall did use ceramic caps as bright caps on the gain and volume pots even back in the day, I think 1000pf for JCM800's and 5000pf on the channel 1 volume pots of 1959's Superleads. When used in these positions they add crunch and are desirable. If you used silver micas on the gain and volume pots it might smooth out the tone too much giving it a more modern tone, but you might like it.

I prefer ceramic caps as bright caps on my gain and volumes pots.
 
ooh, can I go next please?. I love this amp, but she's quite noisey. I changed the Filter caps about 2009 and did the bias caps last year.
I'd appreciate any guidance as I'd love to get her back fighting fit. :)


g3zQDcgh.jpg
 
harddriver":1m9h0hf2 said:
Just to the right of the Marshall ST1 letters are the .022 gray tonestack couping caps, just above them the dark brown/black rectangular cap is the Tonestack capacitor and it look like it's a silver mica cap, and your cap on your 470K mixer and the Phase Inverter fizz cap are silver mica as well. If they have a CD or CDE letters on them they are cornell dublier and very good caps to have, either way they look like good quality micas.

The only ceramic caps I see in your amp is the bypass cap on the 470K resistor and bright cap on your preamp gain pot, they are desirable in these positions. Your amp is a JCM800 2203.

Marshall did use ceramic caps as bright caps on the gain and volume pots even back in the day, I think 1000pf for JCM800's and 5000pf on the channel 1 volume pots of 1959's Superleads. When used in these positions they add crunch and are desirable. If you used silver micas on the gain and volume pots it might smooth out the tone too much giving it a more modern tone, but you might like it.

I prefer ceramic caps as bright caps on my gain and volumes pots.


thanks! :thumbsup:
 
Philhouse":siu23z7h said:
ooh, can I go next please?. I love this amp, but she's quite noisey. I changed the Filter caps about 2009 and did the bias caps last year.
I'd appreciate any guidance as I'd love to get her back fighting fit. :)


g3zQDcgh.jpg


I see a rouge tag board has been introduced.. why is that there?
 
Philhouse":3dg4cold said:
ooh, can I go next please?. I love this amp, but she's quite noisey. I changed the Filter caps about 2009 and did the bias caps last year.
I'd appreciate any guidance as I'd love to get her back fighting fit. :)


g3zQDcgh.jpg

Since you have already replaced the filter caps and bias supply caps then I would say the old ceramic caps could be a source for noise if they are leaking DC.

Just above the Marshall print on the circuit board is the Mixer capacitor it should be either a 470/500pf and it's a ceramic disc cap, A silver mica might be a better choice here. Just above your ST1 letters is the Tonestack capacitor, it's ceramic as well. As talked about above a Silver Mica probably would sound better here as well. I recommend the 560pf Cornell Dublier caps that Valvestorm sells.

The white chicklet coupling caps could be leaking DC as well but I doubt it... the metal foil caps tend to age better not saying it's not possible but not very likely.

Your Phase Inverter Cap is a ceramic disc it should be 47pf. It's normal to have a ceramic cap here but I have seen lemco micas used as well.

Lastly is your 500pf cap judging by it's size it might be 1000pf, it should be 470/500pf bypassing the 470K resistor to your Preamp gain pot. You could replace it with a new one of the same value. Mica's don't sound bad when used here just different more modern. Splawn uses Micas here to give you an idea of how it would sound. Also it looks like someone removed you bright capacitor from your preamp gain pot they were 1000pf here and were usually a ceramic disc cap in the 1000 to 2000V range.

If you like the aggressiveness of the metal panel then replace with new ceramics of the same values.

Your PPIMV master volume looks like some kind of hybrid, it looks like they removed your original Pre-phase inverter master volume pot that the 2204 had. I've never seen anyone do that in a master volume 2204/2203. Did you have these mods done to the amp? I've seen a PPIMV added to the rear of the chassis in a speaker jack hole for overall volume control but it's usually not needed when you have the Pre-PI Master volume already there. The PPIMV's are usually used in Non Master volume amp 1959 and such. Being the PPIMV is installed with unshielded wire that's not twisted near hot signal containing wires from the preamp pot and treble pot output... I would think it might be contributing to noise as well. What year is this amp? 1976-77? Unless your master volume pot is hiding somewhere I don't see it at all. That would leave you with a preamp gain pot acting as a volume and then you PPIMV that's it kind of defeating the cascaded preamp design of the 2204.

If it were mine I'd remove the PPIMV all together and reinstall the stock master volume pot design first that might help your noise issue right off the bat then maybe swap the ceramic caps at the mixer/voltage divider 470K and the tonestack for Silver micas.
 
Fantastic info!
I'll have to source some parts and give it a crack. I believe its a 1978? (sn 01812K)
It sounds quite aggressive as you say, I recall it sounding a little tamer prior to the vol mod, to my ear it sounded like the 'Powerage' album tones, now its a little more gainy and gets closer to 'Opiate/Undertow' levels of gain, which is fine by me, but the hiss and noise is frustrating when you aren't blasting out riffs.
The Vol mod was done by a local tech, suggested by him as the amp was new to me at the time and I was after a basic check up. I'm used to it I guess now, but it did change it's nature a bit and has reduced the versatility, it really only does the aggressive stuff mostly, not as good for roll back clean tones as it used to be. I have though about undoing it a few times back to stock specs.

Thanks again for the amazing detail!

Cheers!!
 
Philhouse":gjndkn8b said:
Fantastic info!
I'll have to source some parts and give it a crack. I believe its a 1978? (sn 01812K)
It sounds quite aggressive as you say, I recall it sounding a little tamer prior to the vol mod, to my ear it sounded like the 'Powerage' album tones, now its a little more gainy and gets closer to 'Opiate/Undertow' levels of gain, which is fine by me, but the hiss and noise is frustrating when you aren't blasting out riffs.
The Vol mod was done by a local tech, suggested by him as the amp was new to me at the time and I was after a basic check up. I'm used to it I guess now, but it did change it's nature a bit and has reduced the versatility, it really only does the aggressive stuff mostly, not as good for roll back clean tones as it used to be. I have though about undoing it a few times back to stock specs.

Thanks again for the amazing detail!

Cheers!!

So was he trying to convert it to a Non Master volume set up for you? Adam Jones Marshall is a mid 70's Super Bass converted to Superlead specs with 2 gain stages. I'm not criticizing his work I just have not seen a PPIMV set up like that one including all the Ken Fischer designs. Was it noisy before he modded the amp with that PPIMV? Listen to Psychodaves stock 2203 clips with a clean boost your 2204 should be able to get pretty close stock with a decent clean boost OD up front for all the extra gain you would need from classic rock to tool IMHO. If you feel the amp is still harsh then look into the mica caps in the tonestack and mixer/voltage divider positions.

I see he kept the three gain stages but without the regular 1 Meg master volume pot there to help control how hard the signal hits the Phase Inverter circuit is probably where alot of noise is coming from as well. Maybe return the amp back to stock with the 1 Meg Master volume pot where it's supposed to be and move the PPIMV to one of the speaker jack holes, twist the wires a bit which helps reduce noise. There are better ways to bump up gain in a 2204. You can lower the V1A 10K resistor cold clipper stage to 5k or so but it can get a little involved past that for noise and oscillation control and getting it to sound good. I think you might find just moving the PPIMV to the rear of the chassis may help. With regular master volume back in place you will be able to control how hard the PI circuit is getting hammered and thus reducing your ambient noise as well. At a certain point too much gain hammering the Phase Inverter circuit starts clipping it too much and can sound bad as well as noisy. After moving your PPIMV to the speaker jack hole reinstalling your original master is easy, a bit of wire from the output(middle) lug of your treble pot to the input lug(far left lug) of the 1Meg master volume pot then re-connect that brown wire that was on the treble pot output(center) lug to the output( center) lug of the 1 MEG master volume pot. Just doing those two things should help without touching the circuit board.

Those older Marshall circuit boards can be ruined if you apply too much heat to them screwing up the traces so if you aren't used to working on delicate circuit boards your tech might be a better choice if you decide to start swapping out Ceramic cap for Micas. Good luck, I hope you get it to sound like you want it to.

I also noticed your amp is missing it's 1K 5Watt screen grid resistors that are supposed to be between pin 6 and pin4 of each of your power tube sockets, I don't know why anyone would remove these. Also your amp is missing the power tubes 5.6K input grid resistors that should be on pin 5 of your power tube sockets, these resistors are very important, they suppress oscillations where the amplifier creates noise on it's own even with no corresponding input signal. If you don't have these your amp can be very unstable and have parasitic oscillations that you may not even hear audibly but damage your power tubes.
 
Here's the board from a 72' 50w I just picked up. I figured there's more to talk about besides politics and covid19 so a thread about a 72' seems gtg. It has some killer original parts, I think it was worthy...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qmerccoeo23a2 ... 2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/e3f0j7n0kc0bs ... 8.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ajn266t5yrqh1 ... 6.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/z0rwg3nim8b4z ... 8.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/rp60so2ltto2o ... 4.jpg?dl=0

Can anyone id the Sylvania as a STR416 btw?
 
Nice find..... :thumbsup: It's nice to see original Lemco's in the bypass cap and tonestack! The only questionable ceramic might be the 5000pf bright cap, but if it's not noisy or hissy leave it be.

It is kinda rare to see a laydown Power transfomer in 72, very cool. Mine has a standup transformer. I can't confirm if your Sylvania 6ca7 are STR's but all Sylvania's were heavy duty tubes anyway. I'll bet the amp sound pretty good judging from the pics and components.

I have some new NOS 5000pf Mallory ceramics caps that sound like the lemco ceramic caps if you think you need one, but I'd keep it original for as long as you can.
 
Thanks guys. I wasn't sure it would even happen and at one point I passed until the seller hit me up and said he had business in the area and would come down on his asking and deliver to my front door! The cosmetic condition isn't mint but considering the parts and price it needed a new home?
 
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